Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok I'm new here and sure this has been covered previously but no amount of searching has turned up a thread on adjusting the headlights on my 07 370 gt. Haven't spotted anything real obvious that screams adjuster +/- Not real sure on how many variants there are, but mine are the HID active cornering ones. Also would be very interested if anyone has installed additional driving lights in the lower fog lamp blank outs? I've seen oem shrouds / fog lamps available and it kinda got me thinking another pair of HIDs down there would be a good thing as I do find mine (although decently bright) a little underwhelming. 

Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484214-v36-370-gt-headlight-adjustment/
Share on other sites

On 21/11/2022 at 3:17 PM, V35_Paul said:

yeah you can adjust them. From memory there is a hole on top somewhere and in the hole is the screw to adjust them.

Yeah cheers V35_Paul. Worked it out. The hole is hidden beneath the rubber engine bay seal / trim and the "screw" is a plastic gear which engages the edge of a p2 phillps when its jammed in the slot. All feels very vague but seems to work despite the questionable design. I could see the plastic gears getting munged out easily if you weren't careful with how you go about it... not helped by the fact that you can't really see what it's doing other than watching the headlight beam on the wall and crossing your fingers 🤞

  • Like 2
On 20/11/2022 at 12:20 AM, nicko370 said:

Also would be very interested if anyone has installed additional driving lights in the lower fog lamp blank outs? I've seen oem shrouds / fog lamps available and it kinda got me thinking another pair of HIDs down there would be a good thing as I do find mine (although decently bright) a little underwhelming

you want the brightest part of your low beam to be at the cut-off. You don't want light in front of your bumper because you can't see into the distance.

How old are your bulbs? Have you inspected the projector bowls? Make sure the outer plastic lenses/covers are clear, any hazing or yellowing dramatically reduces output.

  • Thanks 1
On 30/11/2022 at 11:46 PM, niZmO_Man said:

you want the brightest part of your low beam to be at the cut-off. You don't want light in front of your bumper because you can't see into the distance.

How old are your bulbs? Have you inspected the projector bowls? Make sure the outer plastic lenses/covers are clear, any hazing or yellowing dramatically reduces output.

Bulbs? Not sure.. car has 170ks on the clock and lenses are nice and clear but I guess there's every chance they are original globes.  Projector bowls seem decent but not really sure what I'm looking for here. Again, lights aren’t  terrible just not brilliant either. Adjustment has helped a bit but thought if I could add a pair of decent hid spotties to come on with the high beam, although not ideal situated so low to the ground, could make a big difference. Slightly unconventional but you can never have too much light for night driving right? 

 

could mount something in the grill area? or roof rack :P

Bulbs are about 5-7 years max, they start blue shifting and dim until failure. Bowls will be much harder to check, basically have to split the housing and take the projector apart, unless you have some fancy fibre optic camera. Not worth doing unless you notice the light barely visible.

Just grab an Osram/Philips bulb from here https://www.powerbulbs.com/au/store/category/xenon-hid-bulbs-d2s-d2r-d1s-d1r/fitting/d2s-85122

Cool Blue Boost is for that 6000K LED look, other wise any of the others will be better than old OEM ones. I found Cool Blue Intense to be the right amount of blue for that 'modern' look without compromising too much on usable light. Otherwise, Philips vision (standard replacement) works great (I'm still rocking those in my first HID retrofit in my R32).

  • 2 weeks later...
On 08/12/2022 at 12:01 AM, niZmO_Man said:

could mount something in the grill area? or roof rack :P

 

Roof rack?? Hell yeah!!! Now why didn't I think of that already?🤣 I could fit like six of them up there - big 10 inch ones.. and one of them big curved light bar thingies.... hmmm ....🤔

On 08/12/2022 at 12:01 AM, niZmO_Man said:

could mount something in the grill area? or roof rack :P

Bulbs are about 5-7 years max, they start blue shifting and dim until failure. Bowls will be much harder to check, basically have to split the housing and take the projector apart, unless you have some fancy fibre optic camera. Not worth doing unless you notice the light barely visible.

Just grab an Osram/Philips bulb from here https://www.powerbulbs.com/au/store/category/xenon-hid-bulbs-d2s-d2r-d1s-d1r/fitting/d2s-85122

Cool Blue Boost is for that 6000K LED look, other wise any of the others will be better than old OEM ones. I found Cool Blue Intense to be the right amount of blue for that 'modern' look without compromising too much on usable light. Otherwise, Philips vision (standard replacement) works great (I'm still rocking those in my first HID retrofit in my R32).

But cheers nizmo .. will definitely look into bulbs methinks.. was even wondering about new projectors.  Has anyone switched them out with halo jobbies? Is it even doable?

the now dead forum hidplanet had quite a bit of USDM based information, and the G37 projectors were regarded as being pretty good. Normally you'd just throw new bulbs in, or clear lenses if you want that sharp cut off. Helps to hold the projector in your hand, so you can inspect the bowls. I wouldn't bother changing unless the bowls are burnt.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...