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8 minutes ago, Duncan said:

you chuck the boost controller unit and keep the solenoid and its plumbing. Attach the solenoid to the wiring in from the stock location (extend the wires if necessary).

So you’re pretty much saying terminate the stock solenoid wiring into the blitz plug and plug it into the solenoid?

if I want a high boost and a spastic boost setting, is that done with a missile switch?

37 minutes ago, IM-32-FK said:

So you’re pretty much saying terminate the stock solenoid wiring into the blitz plug and plug it into the solenoid?

if I want a high boost and a spastic boost setting, is that done with a missile switch?

Before setting up said missile switch, have a think about a CAN keypad instead.

https://linkecu.com/link-can-keypads-have-arrived/

42 minutes ago, Duncan said:

Yes, and Yes. The boost switch would need to be wired into a spare input in the link

What is the highest safest reliable kw I can get out of an unopened det neo with only arp head bolts? Is 400kw pushing it?

absolutely no idea.....turn up the boost and find out :) Neo is apparently a good head

I guess you will need cams at that level though, not sure if the head studs are required

11 minutes ago, Duncan said:

absolutely no idea.....turn up the boost and find out :) Neo is apparently a good head

I guess you will need cams at that level though, not sure if the head studs are required

Nah there was one guy running like 800hp with stock neo cams.

and yes you do need head studs because the stock ones start to stretch around 300-400kw

No stock engine is reliable up there but it can be on the edge of reliable if your not belting on the track 24/7 and you have the oil situation sorted

 

 

 

You dont need cams for anything really but it makes it more efficient and effective But yes on the edge at that power level where they may or may not be advantageous vs response etc

350rwkw ish is perfect and very fast car for street and even track if you set it up for that

As someone who put a good 5 holes in the side of stock bottom end blocks its usually either the rods/ rod bolts that go or the bearings due to insufficient oil system 

And then after all this your going to have to have your tuna manage your torque because your going to want to mash your foot on the loud pedal and it has to not knock the tyres off to go fast fwd not nowhere

 

 

Edited by bcozican
  • Like 2

So a quick update, the G4x turned out to be a g4+, an older model. He was kind enough to send me back $250. Are there limitations  for the user with the g4+ compared to the x?

6 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

G4+ will absolutely do everything you need. No worries  .

Link product page says 

 A faster Micro controller - meaning your engine will run smoother, accelerate faster and act more responsively. An upgraded Communications Chip - sees download speeds 16 x faster than G4+ 512 Megabytes of data logging - this is over 100x the size of prior Link ECUs”


it states there you can get better power and response from the g4x. I’m guessing the other features just makes tuning easier for the tuner, but doesn’t affect the final outcome?

3 hours ago, IM-32-FK said:

Link product page says 

 A faster Micro controller - meaning your engine will run smoother, accelerate faster and act more responsively. An upgraded Communications Chip - sees download speeds 16 x faster than G4+ 512 Megabytes of data logging - this is over 100x the size of prior Link ECUs”


it states there you can get better power and response from the g4x. I’m guessing the other features just makes tuning easier for the tuner, but doesn’t affect the final outcome?

Engineers Hat On: Knowing the speed that Microcontrollers operate at, back in the day, and these days, if Link have found a benefit in the quality of the way an engine runs by moving their code to a faster MCU, than Link needs to get it's engineers to go back and make their code more efficient...

 

  • Like 1

i might as well get a ffp too since ive sunken so much money into the car. $2100 with slytech iacv, r32 tps, 3 inch tb and a longer accelerator cable

i calculated the total cost after i sell the stuff i know i can sell(nistune, power fc, walbro etc) and it comes down to $18175!!!

and i bet im still going to need to spend another $500-1k on some little things that pop up.

Is this normal to get like 360-400kw?

too late now, cant go back😬

 

13 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Sounds like your paying for labour and paying a tuner? 

labour is surprisingly cheap at $3000. 

the tune however, is 2.2 for a flex fuel tune with boost control settings

so about 13-14k for parts

getting the best parts though like garett, 6 boost, plazmaman, bosch etc

Edited by IM-32-FK
1 minute ago, IM-32-FK said:

labour is surprisingly cheap at $3000. 

the tune however, is 2.2 for a flex fuel tune with boost control settings

so about 13-14k for parts

getting the best parts though like garett, 6 boost, plazmaman, bosch etc

Would you consider learning to tune yourself? It's not a hard skill to learn. 

4 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Would you consider learning to tune yourself? It's not a hard skill to learn. 

i dont know absolutely everything about cars and exactly how it all works, although id like to think i still know alot. It seems like a very long learning process that'll take years

Just now, IM-32-FK said:

i dont know absolutely everything about cars and exactly how it all works, although id like to think i still know alot. It seems like a very long learning process that'll take years

If you have a cheap laptop and are willing to learn, you could be tuning within a week or 2. 

I'm a very strong advocate of people learning to work on and tune their own cars. You save an absolute fortune (in your case you save about $5,200) which can be used on more parts/tyres/fuel/track day fees. 

I'd like to say build the car yourself, but that's easier said then done. Not everyone has a garage and tools are expensive. I get that. 

But when it comes to tuning, all you need is a cheap laptop. 

If your willing to learn, you can 100% do it. I'm happy to explain step by step how I learnt to tune. I'm sure there would be others here that know how to tune that also would gladly share their experience. I'm happy to share maps and for you to send me maps for feedback as well. Again I'm sure others here would do the same. 

25 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

If you have a cheap laptop and are willing to learn, you could be tuning within a week or 2. 

I'm a very strong advocate of people learning to work on and tune their own cars. You save an absolute fortune (in your case you save about $5,200) which can be used on more parts/tyres/fuel/track day fees. 

I'd like to say build the car yourself, but that's easier said then done. Not everyone has a garage and tools are expensive. I get that. 

But when it comes to tuning, all you need is a cheap laptop. 

If your willing to learn, you can 100% do it. I'm happy to explain step by step how I learnt to tune. I'm sure there would be others here that know how to tune that also would gladly share their experience. I'm happy to share maps and for you to send me maps for feedback as well. Again I'm sure others here would do the same. 

thanks for the offer dude but currently i dont trust myself at all to tune it, i might just end up blowing something in the motor.

in the future, with my current setup, ill probably just need to change the turbo and do some minor internal work to get maybe 500-600kw. I think i might tune it myself then (maybe)

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