Sending my car in for a 360kw setup next month, need advice.

[Murray_Calavera]

1 minute ago, IM-32-FK said:

Ok it’s settled, no need to blow more money than I’ve already have.

but the idea of high and low boost baffles me. Like I said it’s for street use. I’m going to do full send pulls now and then (probably every time I drive it) but not continuous like on the track. Is high boost meant to be unreliable, unsafe for the motor? I just want max psi without blowing the motor or f**king anything.

also I’m guessing the link can is plug and play onto the ecu, just needs 12v and ground?

Your high boost setting should be tuned to be completely safe to use. Your ECU should have engine protection setup so that you shouldn't have to worry about anything blowing up if something was to go wrong. (but hey, not all tuners bother setting up engine protection. My car had a Haltech pro plugin when I bought it, and whoever tuned it previously didn't bother setting up any engine protection).

Just had a quick look at the Link CAN gauge manual, looks like it's just the normal CAN wiring and an additional +12 volt if you want the gauge to dim when you turn on your headlights. Very easy to wire up. 

[Murray_Calavera]

14 minutes ago, IM-32-FK said:

@Murray_Calavera

So also I got a blitz 3 port solenoid. Does this mean I connect the 2 factory solenoid wires to the solenoid? and since it’s a plug and play ecu, I don’t need to wire it straight to the ecu?

For example, so something like this has 2 wires coming out of it, those 2 wires connect to the factory solenoid wires in my case of the pnp g4+?

https://www.efisolutions.com.au/3-port-mac-valve-boost-control-solenoid

 

Yep, use the factory wiring. I haven't checked the pinout for your ECU, but I'd be amazed if it wasn't setup to use the factory wiring for the MAC valve.

[WR33KD]

There are lots of uses for a low/high setting. Low is for city driving and still having a good time then high turns everything on does just have to be a low/high switch. Options are almost endless.

Dont over think it keep it simple

[GTSBoy]

Low is for when it's raining, when the car is at the tyre shop, etc.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Canbus keypad solves all these issues with 1 or 2 stages or rocker switches (ewww).

You could setup a few different power levels and different rev limiters on your keypad.

[MBS206]

5 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Low is for when it's raining, when the car is at the tyre shop, etc.

Right foot is for when it's raining. Lots of 20+psi tunes have a 14psi spring, which 14psi is going to be plenty in wet/slippery times.

 

Apart from a higher setting for street daily runs / drag runs, and then a lower setting for track use / long mountain runs, I PERSONALLY don't see the point in multiple boost settings. And that's coming from someone who used to run multiple settings...

 

Fuel economy again for daily, just go light on the throttle, and dont even bring it fully onto boost for what you'd have as the low setting... Means right foot controls boost, and fuel usage, and means if you want POWAH!, that you just flick your foot, not a switch and your foot.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

4 hours ago, MBS206 said:

Lots of 2 bar+ tunes have a 0.5 bar springs, which 0.5 bar is going to be plenty in wet/slippery times 

4 port solenoid dis dat, just run them at lower frequencies and you have decent control.

FWIW I go from 0.5 bar to 2.0 bar with ease (just can't hold 2.0 bar past peak torque because out of compressor).

 

[Murray_Calavera]

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

4 port solenoid dis dat, just run them at lower frequencies and you have decent control.

FWIW I go from 0.5 bar to 2.0 bar with ease (just can't hold 2.0 bar past peak torque because out of compressor).

 

What frequency do you run yours at?

[Ben C34]

do testing using an air compressor as a pressure source. try different frequencies and see what happens. plot it in excel

It tells you things!

I run a volume of air  downstream of the valve to keep the crazy pulses in check . (3 port valve)

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

6 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

What frequency do you run yours at?

If memory serves me correctly I dropped it to 12hz.

Any higher and every 1% of DC was moving like 0.25 bar of boost lol.

[Lithium]

13 hours ago, MBS206 said:

I PERSONALLY don't see the point in multiple boost settings. And that's coming from someone who used to run multiple settings...

For you that's probably the case, the beauty with building cars is we can build what suits ourselves and we're not all forced to the same path.  I've been around heaps of multipurpose builds that a single boost target configuration would not suit at all.   

If you have a car that is a weekend car that at events will run drag tyres and has potential to make a cr@pload of  power but is still road friendly enough to be used for road trips etc then you really don't want to run the "run the quickest time you can on a drag radial" tune when you're going for a road trip on New Zealand running normal street tyres, I understand the "right foot" argument but straight up - sometimes when you're going to be driving for 9 hours on varying road surfaces, windy corners etc etc you don't want to have think about how much throttle you can give it every time you catch a campervan or truck with a small passing opportunity on a windy road.   Maybe I'm a pussy, but I like having the option of just being able to roll on the throttle and blow past things without worrying about the car getting all frisky if I'm too heavy footed - buuuuuut also reserving the option to go "Screw it, I want to overtake a line of cars baking the bags"

 

[IM-32-FK]

15 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

4 port solenoid dis dat, just run them at lower frequencies and you have decent control.

FWIW I go from 0.5 bar to 2.0 bar with ease (just can't hold 2.0 bar past peak torque because out of compressor).

 

well should i use 3 or 4 port solenoid for the external wastegate?

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

A 3 port is much easier to tame, a 4 port can be a bit harder to tame.

Took me a while to get the boost curve I wanted on the dyno with the help of Alex at Birrong Automotive. He advised to keep dropping the frequency in order to give more control.

[IM-32-FK]

25 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

A 3 port is much easier to tame, a 4 port can be a bit harder to tame.

Took me a while to get the boost curve I wanted on the dyno with the help of Alex at Birrong Automotive. He advised to keep dropping the frequency in order to give more control.

like this setup? 

 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

22 minutes ago, IM-32-FK said:

like this setup? 

 

Depends on valve type, but that setup would be easier to control boost.

Most will use this style of MAC valve.

And you would plumb it like this

[GTSBoy]

Note those two layouts are identical.

[Duncan]

Not really, the second one uses blue hose

[GTSBoy]

[IM-32-FK]

@Dose Pipe Sutututu

ive currently got this blitz sbc solenoid, but i might as well get a mac valve. I see alot of brands copy the original MAC design down to the colour, like innovative and turbosmart. Which one do you prefer? the innovative ones says its 'high resolution. what fitting style do you use?

oh and also i used to work in yagonna, right by birrong automotive too. I got them to replace my speed sensor and clutch master cylinder way back like nearly 10 years ago

[GTSBoy]

1 minute ago, IM-32-FK said:

I see alot of brands copy the original MAC design down to the colour,

You mean they rebadge and resell MAC valves?

Edited March 27, 2023 by GTSBoy