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  On 16/04/2023 at 2:34 AM, GTSBoy said:

Do you mean "reuse"?

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Yes

i mean, it’s been crushed, compressed and shaped to seal the stock upper plenum, and since I’m gonna put the plazmaman upper half now, I was thinking it might not seal it 100%. By the way it’s a MLS steel shim gasket.

Edited by IM-32-FK
  On 15/04/2023 at 3:14 AM, R3N3 said:

Wiring is pretty simple. The pedal and the throttle wire directly to the ecu. Remember you’re removing the aac and tps, so should free up some I/O at the ECU At the same time.

the pedal is essentially 2x tps sensors. It has 2x 5v, 2x signal ground and 2x signal wires. The 5v and signal ground can be common. So 4 wires total.

the throttle is essentially the same but with 12v stepper motor wires.

also remember that there is some re-routing of coolant hoses under the plenum when doing DBW. Check my build thread for info if you need.

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I’m starting to worry. The guy at link said I need to run 3 AN volt inputs and 3 Aux channels for the DBW.

I don’t see any aux channel plus I also need to run a IAT, flex fuel sensor and a boost control missile switch. Will I have enough I/O? It’s a Gttlink plugin

do they all need to run to the expansion ports? Here is a pic of the expansion ports

 

5E8C9F82-4821-42D1-9140-644DF592C7D6.jpeg

have they released the canbus keypad integration for them yet? They were working on it for a while, but no idea if it's released to market.

Means you won't need to torch any inputs for switches.

  On 17/04/2023 at 4:18 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

have they released the canbus keypad integration for them yet? They were working on it for a while, but no idea if it's released to market.

Means you won't need to torch any inputs for switches.

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Only on g4x

 

Get the external ethrottle unit, have used them on old g4 with no issues. Can find them cheaper than prp.

  • Like 1
  On 17/04/2023 at 5:16 AM, robbo_rb180 said:

Only on g4x

 

Get the external ethrottle unit, have used them on old g4 with no issues. Can find them cheaper than prp.

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G4+ can definitely do can keypads

  • Like 1
  On 16/04/2023 at 11:30 PM, IM-32-FK said:

I’m starting to worry. The guy at link said I need to run 3 AN volt inputs and 3 Aux channels for the DBW.

I don’t see any aux channel plus I also need to run a IAT, flex fuel sensor and a boost control missile switch. Will I have enough I/O? It’s a Gttlink plugin

do they all need to run to the expansion ports? Here is a pic of the expansion ports

 

5E8C9F82-4821-42D1-9140-644DF592C7D6.jpeg

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Not sure sorry, I’m not familiar with Link.

I suggest downloading the wiring diagram for your exact ECU and start mapping everything out to a pin. As noted above, things like a CAN keypad will save inputs. This will tell you if you need to consider expansion modules, external DBW driver etc.

be careful, as some pins may be DBW specific or some may not be suitable for temp sensors etc. or maybe Link do that better than Haltech..

  On 17/04/2023 at 5:39 AM, Ben C34 said:

G4+ can definitely do can keypads

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Thought needed pdm for that function. When I asked link said it couldn't. Cheers for that info.

@Dose Pipe Sutututu @Duncan @robbo_rb180 @Ben C34 @R3N3

I spoke with whoever runs the Facebook Link ecu page and he said I won’t be able to run IAT, flex fuel sensor, boost setting switch and DBW all at the same time because their isn’t enough I/O, even after the spare I/O’s I get after deleting IACV and TPS. He said “e throttle is I/O intensive”.

He came up with a solution for me. He told me to send the ecu out to their office to get it modified. “The next option would be to have the board modified to drive E throttle directly rather than using the module. We can then add in additional wires to access other I/O that is not currently wired to a connector.”

So he is going to hardwire 4 AN inputs and 2 aux inputs to the ecu and I connect the dbw to that.

best of all, this mod means I don’t need to buy the $500 link e throttle module, and I’m getting charged $200-250 to get it modified.

Now I got enough I/O to connect the flex sensor, iat and boost switch through the expansion loom.

I sent it off earlier today. cheering

 

 

 

Edited by IM-32-FK
  • Like 7

Their support is awesome

The link forum is very good also, and they respond quite quick there too, and do heaps of work helping people out, far beyond what I would consider reasonable!

  • Like 1

what else do you guys recommend I upgrade for the safe and healthy functioning of the rb25det neo motor around ~400kw?

would an n1 oil pump be a good upgrade? They are gtr gear but will it fit a neo?

 

  On 18/04/2023 at 12:04 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

It already runs a N1 oil pump.

A nice big sump would be good insurance.

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DET neo comes factory with n1 oil pump? Well that’s news to me (neo also has rb26 piston rods)

what sump do you recommend ?

also since the plenum is coming off I should change the thermostat too. Do you recommend oem or aftermarket? Lower or higher temp?

  On 18/04/2023 at 12:10 PM, IM-32-FK said:

should change the thermostat too

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Not if it's currently working. They're not a high failure rate item in my experience.

  On 18/04/2023 at 12:10 PM, IM-32-FK said:

oem or aftermarket

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OEM is best. Nothing wrong with them.

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
  On 18/04/2023 at 11:16 PM, Murray_Calavera said:
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The Lewis engine one looks nice, says it’s got a 6L capacity, it’s baffled and gated. But I was doing some research and it said that with higher capacity sumps, it causes the head have more oil, which can cook it. Please advise.

  On 05/05/2023 at 4:34 AM, IM-32-FK said:

The Lewis engine one looks nice, says it’s got a 6L capacity, it’s baffled and gated. But I was doing some research and it said that with higher capacity sumps, it causes the head have more oil, which can cook it. Please advise.

Expand  

It's not really the extended sump causing issues, but the higher flowing oil pump that normally goes along with the extended sump. If the head can only drain at X but the bigger pump is flowing Y into the head, you get the idea. 

So the issue of oil pooling in the head needs to be addressed. I believe both the Lewis modified sump and the Aeroflow sump have fittings to allow you to vent the sump to the catch can. This is the main issue, blow-by builds in the bottom on the motor slowing the return/drain of oil from the head. 

Up to you if you want to do anything further like head drain/enlarged oil returns/oil restrictors in the head/etc 

What oil pump will you be using?

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