Jump to content
SAU Community

Battery connection fault

MattBas1975

By MattBas1975,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

MattBas1975 Apprentice

MattBas1975

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Put a new battery in. Then went to put all the connections on and it just pops. I'm going up there tomorrow and will suss it out again. We replaced the fusable link small connection about a month ago because it was doing the same thing and it fixed the problem. Now it's doing it again. 

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Model # of old battery? Model # of new battery? Photos?

Next, seeing as it sounds like a pretty severe short, have you considered putting a multimeter, set to continuity/resistance, onto the main +ve battery lead** and seeing if there is much resistance to body earth?

**without the battery being connected, of course, and with a new fuse in place.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

So basically there is a short circuit in your wiring downstream of that big fusible link, and if you can get a battery terminal to smoke it is big enough to burn your car down. 

I'm not familiar at all with the 31 battery wiring so I can't suggest specifically, but you need to start pulling apart wherever that link goes (eg into a big fuse box of some sort and have a look for any sign of burning and/or very exposed wires. If you have a multimeter and it goes to a fuse box, you can pull each fuse and check if the socket has continuity to ground, but as you are blowing the big fuse not a small one first, it is most likely between the big fusible link and wherever that starts splitting out.

BTW, double check there is no chance your battery terminals are around the wrong way, that might do this....

MattBas1975 Apprentice

MattBas1975

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks. I'll be up at my son's tomorrow night and will send through pics on what's happening. 

We had problems at all until we charged the battery and reconnected it and it happened. Tried another battery and same thing. 

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
MattBas1975 Apprentice

MattBas1975

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 28/12/2022 at 2:57 PM, MattBas1975 said:

Hi, can you tell me what this is connected to from the battery to dash? We've disconnected it from the battery and no spark or fuse blown.

IMG20221228145451.jpg

 

On 13/12/2022 at 4:59 PM, GTSBoy said:

Probably reverse charged the first battery, blew the crap out of everything when it was hooked up, then with the crap blown out of the alternator, any new battery will make the same smoke show?

Nope. Not even close. Power wire with inline fuse that's connected to the amp in the boot was the culprit. Disconnected and turn over 1st go. Bang O'

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • DRoc81
      Shifting questions

      By DRoc81 · Posted

      This was a huge help.  We followed the steps,  although shifting into 2nd was actually into 3rd for us,  and 1st was into 2nd ( steps 9 and 11) .  The long flash was the 4th flash.  So shift solenoid A is possibly the culprit.  Is this inside the transmission itself? Or is it accessible by just front the pan? Or is it bolted to the outside of the transmission?  Thanos for your help everyone
    • sunsetR33
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Can you enlighten me on your best practice regarding these hoses? I don't wanna make the same mistake if you already got a better solution.
    • sunsetR33
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I have some silicon hoses already, for example engine to watercooler. But yeah, I get the sentiment. The lower intercooler silicon hose is drippy too, despite not being very old. Does anyone except Nismo make these same lines out of rubber? Long term I think they'd be the better replacement, especially since the car won't live as hard a life anymore as in the past nor be driven as often.
    • sunsetR33
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I know most issues are just age related. But for example the turbo oil drains, there is dash adapters for these and you can just make a braided teflon line for them and (probably) never have them leak again. Also not terribly expensive. Can you even get the factory hardlines from new? Or are they repairable if they break?
    • sunsetR33
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I know it'd be much much easier with the tool. I hope I can find one that won't take 3 weeks to get to me an isn't a "Asian models kit" that has tons of (to me) useless adapters for a load of cash.   It's a summer project/fun car. I do wanna enjoy it, without endless downtime over and over. So yeah I would even go and buy an engine crane + stand to save myself the trouble of hard to reach or unreachable places going bad later on. Would also be a good opportunity to put on a Fluidamper, renew the mains seals and stuff like that. I have some money on the side that I can use for that, what I wouldn't want to or be able to do is let everything be done by a shop or have my engine completely rebuild right now. I intend to do most of the "doable" jobs myself. Pulling an engine can't be that hard, can it?
×
×
  • Create New...