Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, just after some feedback on these modifications. I am still in the planning stages for my build, I am aiming for 250-270kw in my 98 R34 GTT with 90,000km on it.

-Hypergear ATR43 0.63 rear housing internally gated with bush bearing 
-340L/H fuel pump
-750cc injectors
-Spitfire coilpacks 
-3" turbo back exhaust/ hi flow cat
-3" intake pipe
-Nistune ECU

-Will the 0.63 rear housing be too small?

-Is it worth the extra $400 for a ball bearing over a journal bearing ? I'd rather put the money towards a custom intake/ exhaust 


Thanks legends 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484279-advice-on-my-r34-gtt-build/
Share on other sites

As above, good choices for intended target power but inevitably like most skyline owners you will want more in the future. I would go for 1000cc injectors for some future proofing in case you want to run E85 and hit the 350+rwkw range. Definitely go the ball bearing option, will make it so much nicer with that turbo. 

Alternatively, you could just highflow the stock turbo with bb option. Will still make your power target on p98 and capable of around 325rwkw on E85, be a little more responsive. 

If your car doesn't already have a decent clutch in it, you'll need to get something like an npc or exedy to handle the power increase. 

38 minutes ago, dyl33 said:

I've got a similar setup on my series 2 rb25det but using the Hypergear ATR45SAT and it makes those numbers on 15-17psi. Goes good. NEO will go better.

Get the ball bearing option.

Do you have any issues with lag?

1 hour ago, admS15 said:

Alternatively, you could just highflow the stock turbo with bb option. Will still make your power target on p98 and capable of around 325rwkw on E85, be a little more responsive.

I considered this but I thought for future proofing I should go the ATR43 with larger intake, even with the extra hassle to install it. I can always change the injectors out later 

  • Like 1
37 minutes ago, harambe34 said:

I considered this but I thought for future proofing I should go the ATR43 with larger intake, even with the extra hassle to install it. I can always change the injectors out later 

Do you already have the injectors? 

750cc injectors or 1000cc injectors will costs around the same money and both will be easy to tune. Why not pick up the 1000cc injectors to start with and save yourself the time and hassle in the future?

  • Like 2
1 hour ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Do you already have the injectors? 

750cc injectors or 1000cc injectors will costs around the same money and both will be easy to tune. Why not pick up the 1000cc injectors to start with and save yourself the time and hassle in the future?

Absolutely, it's not 2005 anymore. With the Bosch EV14 injectors there is no reason to use anything smaller than 1000cc injectors when upgrading these days.

  • Like 1
2 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Do you already have the injectors? 

750cc injectors or 1000cc injectors will costs around the same money and both will be easy to tune. Why not pick up the 1000cc injectors to start with and save yourself the time and hassle in the future?

I've found some Deatchwerks 1000cc injectors and Raceworks 1200cc injectors for $720. Is there such thing as too big with injectors? Will it still idle and drive properly?

2 hours ago, harambe34 said:

I've found some Deatchwerks 1000cc injectors and Raceworks 1200cc injectors for $720. Is there such thing as too big with injectors? Will it still idle and drive properly?

Yeah you could go 'too big' with injectors, but you won't run into those issues with 1000cc injectors. They will idle and drive like factory. 

Is there any reason you don't want to use a Bosch EV14 injector? They aren't expensive and are proven to be a good thing. 

2 hours ago, harambe34 said:

I've found some Deatchwerks 1000cc injectors and Raceworks 1200cc injectors for $720. Is there such thing as too big with injectors? Will it still idle and drive properly?

Yoh can go too big if the injectors or ECU can't control the opening and closing minimum pulse width required to make the car idle. Back in the day before EV14 injectors 1000cc EV1 injectors like Sard, Denso, Nismo etc. would be about is big as you could go without running into problems at low load. Even then 1000cc could cause issues with their ability to open and close properly at 1% duty cycles, hence using something like 600 - 800 to combat this. Now its not an issue as the newer design with bigger flow injectors can pulse width control much more accurately at lower duty cycles unless you go to something stupid like over 2000cc on unleaded.

12 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Yeah you could go 'too big' with injectors, but you won't run into those issues with 1000cc injectors. They will idle and drive like factory. 

Is there any reason you don't want to use a Bosch EV14 injector? They aren't expensive and are proven to be a good thing. 

I literally just swapped injectors on one of the cars last month to the 1200cc EV14 injectors from Kudos Motorsports - idles better than my 33 which still has shitty Denso 700cc's. The ones Raceworks are selling are the same as the Kudos Motorsports ones, which are the Bosch EV14 040 980cc injector but modified.  They flow either 1200cc, 1250cc or 1300cc at 3 bar depending on which batch in flow matching they come from. I have the blue dot which is 1200cc.

As far as injector choices go I recommend staying with unmodified injectors if you don't need the extra flow, usually high-flowing injectors is done by removing the diffuser plate which impacts atomization and spray pattern especially because these aren't air assisted injectors.

16 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

As far as injector choices go I recommend staying with unmodified injectors if you don't need the extra flow, usually high-flowing injectors is done by removing the diffuser plate which impacts atomization and spray pattern especially because these aren't air assisted injectors.

Yeah someone out there around here is removing the cap and selling to different places like Raceworks and Kudos to distribute / resell. I do agree in principle with not doing injector modification, but honestly who gives a f**k if it actually works ? After seeing the real world results, not your theoretical take on it, the difference over the unmodified EV1 standard style injectors to a modified decapped EV14 is night and day. Whatever afr you target it does precisely and accurately.

Admittedly I use unmodified versions of the Bosch EV14 333 1550cc/1650cc on the blue 32 because the flow level of these is enough for what I need. But even then if you needed more, the Bosch EV14s are modified in this exact way by ID. Like the ID1700X is still a decapped 333 to get their flow increases, and then you are just paying  for their ultra precise not just static but dynamic flow matching.

People are still paying and using shitty Nismo EV1 injectors like the factory design, which is far from optimal even compared to a decapped EV14 which is just crazy.

  • Like 2
22 hours ago, BK said:

Yeah someone out there around here is removing the cap and selling to different places like Raceworks and Kudos to distribute / resell. I do agree in principle with not doing injector modification, but honestly who gives a f**k if it actually works ? After seeing the real world results, not your theoretical take on it, the difference over the unmodified EV1 standard style injectors to a modified decapped EV14 is night and day. Whatever afr you target it does precisely and accurately.

Admittedly I use unmodified versions of the Bosch EV14 333 1550cc/1650cc on the blue 32 because the flow level of these is enough for what I need. But even then if you needed more, the Bosch EV14s are modified in this exact way by ID. Like the ID1700X is still a decapped 333 to get their flow increases, and then you are just paying  for their ultra precise not just static but dynamic flow matching.

People are still paying and using shitty Nismo EV1 injectors like the factory design, which is far from optimal even compared to a decapped EV14 which is just crazy.

I think we’re in agreement here. To me it’s more about reducing cost/risk. If you know you’ll never need more flow you can get the stock injectors with the factory binning. If you do need the extra flow though a good decapped EV14 is fine. 

On 17/12/2022 at 5:39 PM, joshuaho96 said:

I think we’re in agreement here. To me it’s more about reducing cost/risk. If you know you’ll never need more flow you can get the stock injectors with the factory binning. If you do need the extra flow though a good decapped EV14 is fine. 

👍Here is the end of the decapped 040 flowing 1200cc

20221126_113811.thumb.jpg.ec756abdb9e54c41b7ecfd81df914009.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
×
×
  • Create New...