Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

image.thumb.png.fac575985dc178cd4fbd194e4a4284f9.png

I haven't looked at weird things people have done to RBs before so I don't really know what to make of this. Looking at the vacuum line just above the oil filter it looks like it's looped back on itself. Checking the vacuum diagram I'm pretty sure both ends of the loop are supposed to go to the OEM boost solenoid. OEM boost solenoid is nowhere to be found but the harness connector is still present and doesn't appear to be modified, couldn't find any boost solenoid at all. Wouldn't this be equivalent to 100% duty cycle on an OEM solenoid without the restrictor? Thankfully this isn't my car.

1 hour ago, r32-25t said:

Just block both those hoses, it wide open if they鈥檙e connected 

Ok, so I guessed right. Supposedly this car has -5s on it with the stock tune/ECU. Stock fuel injectors I confirmed personally. The owner told me it didn't start coming off the truck and when I checked it cylinder 4 is misfiring even at idle. 

Remember stock boost solenoid is a normally closed setup and then bleeds directly to atmosphere / air filter, so if you join both stock solenoid lines together it creates one hell of a vacuum leak.

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, Duncan said:

It would be worth tracing the wastegate solenoid boost reference source too.

As far as I can tell it's there is no wastegate solenoid anymore. I'm pretty sure that the brackets that hold the OEM solenoid on are also gone. The boost reference line is still hooked up like factory though, plenum line appears to go down to the combination vacuum + coolant pipe underneath. Checking the exhaust side of the engine it looks like the hoses are hooked up to the factory positions, both the wastegate line and the pre-compressor vent line. I couldn't get a clear view of the back of the engine because the autobahn88 hoses aren't clipped down or anything like the factory setup.

sorry, misleading extra word "solenoid" in my sentence :)

"It would be worth tracing the wastegate boost reference source too"

Sounds like the wastegates are connected directly to the post throttle source, so it should just be running wastegate pressure on the turbos. On standard that is about 12psi, if these are -5 they are more likely to have come with 14psi wastegates or 7. Apparently the boost is pretty lazy when hooked up that way, normally the boost controller holds the  pressure low until near the target boost level

13 minutes ago, Duncan said:

sorry, misleading extra word "solenoid" in my sentence :)

"It would be worth tracing the wastegate boost reference source too"

Sounds like the wastegates are connected directly to the post throttle source, so it should just be running wastegate pressure on the turbos. On standard that is about 12psi, if these are -5 they are more likely to have come with 14psi wastegates or 7. Apparently the boost is pretty lazy when hooked up that way, normally the boost controller holds the  pressure low until near the target boost level

Yeah, I told the owner to test the wastegate manually with a shop compressor and regulated air feed or some equivalent pressure source. We'll see how it goes I guess.

1 hour ago, Duncan said:

sorry, misleading extra word "solenoid" in my sentence :)

"It would be worth tracing the wastegate boost reference source too"

Sounds like the wastegates are connected directly to the post throttle source, so it should just be running wastegate pressure on the turbos. On standard that is about 12psi, if these are -5 they are more likely to have come with 14psi wastegates or 7. Apparently the boost is pretty lazy when hooked up that way, normally the boost controller holds the  pressure low until near the target boost level

No with that looped around it鈥檚 the same as having the wastegate line disconnected, they need to be blocked off 

  • Like 1
19 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

No with that looped around it鈥檚 the same as having the wastegate line disconnected, they need to be blocked off 

Almost yeah. The problem is the boost source that goes to the actuators is tee'd before the solenoid on the hard line and as I said the other side of the solenoid vents to airfliter, so if you just join the existing lines it's like a having a massive boost bleed on the actuator line. So much so that it'll bleed off that much to atmosphere the gates will never open because of such a weak boost signal at actuators.

Yes the lines need to be capped 馃憤

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, what did you decide? If these items were going in and out of stock, you could at least order the two in-stock pieces. Also, I'd say the stock bit of airbox isn't that restrictive to your NA motor. To test if it is, fit a vacuum gauge between the airbox and throttle body. At WOT do you measure any vacuum?
    • Hey guys I have a 2001 Nissan stagea vq25det, I don't have any engine lights and not really any issues running but I was curious to see if I could use my obd II scanner to find anything that was hidden and I plugged my scanner in and it just said "Low voltage cannot scan" does anyone know how to fix this or what this could be?
    • Sadly we have something in common, our Skyline's like blowing up electrically 馃槩
    • So, no videos, but, the FAB9 Elite manifold and 68mm Bosch throttle bodies are in stock, but, not the rear part of the air box The FAB9 rear airbox thingie is made with a 3" intake pipe, to suit the 3" intake pipe size of a 68mm throttle body  When they get some more in stock is currently unknown as I'm waiting for FAB9 to reply with a ETA on resupply, my assumption is they outsource their plastic printing stuff to "china", and with the current "tariff war" going on in 'Merica it could be on hold for an undisclosed time Should I pull the pin on the Intake and throttle body, and wait for the airbox?????, that's what I'm thinking... 1. Would the standard 2.75" OEM intake on the air box really be that much of a restriction compared to the 3" naturally aspirated?????? 2. If I don't get the 3" FAB9 airbox fitted at the same time as the intake and throttle body will it need a retune, when/if it eventually turns up?????? As I'm impulsive, to a fault, decisions will be made within....."what's the time now"???....let's say 12 hours......LOL
  • Create New...