Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

If using a race/serie damper :

- without AC, no relocation kit needed, it means that the steering pump pulley is aligned with the groove of the damper

- with AC, a relocation kit is needed, I would expect only to have a bracket for the AC compressor to move it forward however there is also another pulley and a bracket to move forward the steering pump which makes no sense ?

Obviously there is something I don't catch

Best regards

I'm pretty sure I've told you this all before in another thread. The deal is with the Ross race or gold series damper they are designed not to use ac and only has 2 pulleys standard, so where the ac belt would normally sit on the balancer that is a solid dampened area and then the power steering belt runs on the 2nd outer pulley in the factory alignment. Remember the ps is the very outside belt not the ac normally.

If you want to run ac they remove the outer damper ps pulley and put an ac pulley in that alignment then bolt the ps pulley on the outside of that pulley. This has the effect of moving both the ps and ac pulleys forward 25mm on the balancer, meaning you need the ac and ps relocation brackets to move the ps pump and ac compressor forward 25mm to realign with the balancer.

Relocation of the ps and ac forward 25mm means you cannot use the factory radiator fan anymore as it will hit - I measured my r32 and R33 GTRs for Ross to confirm that you can't run the ac relocation with a factory fan without hitting the ps. The 32 was somewhere around 16mm and the 33 was less at only 12mm. I believe the 34 is pretty much the same as the 33, but anyway none of the GTRs have 25mm + down there so it doesn't work unless you go thermo fans when relocating both ps and ac.

Hence why I ditched the whole ac relocate idea and went back to their current integrated trigger 800hp Tuffbond balancer as everything lines up like factory. Take their power ratings with a grain of salt - they are conservative on their power ratings and admitted themselves you can't actually rate a balancer in power. I'd suggest just get a Tuffbond unless you want to ditch the ac.

  • Thanks 1
13 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Surely this is just screaming out for either an electric AC compressor or an electric PS pump to solve the problem? Guessing PS pump the lower power/easier option.

To retain ps in factory alignment I'd say so for electric ac.

Obviously to keep ac belt driven you'd need electric ps and still need to relocate the ac 25mm.

1 hour ago, BK said:

To retain ps in factory alignment I'd say so for electric ac

My thinking is that mech driven AC comps use a couple of horsepower to drive them. So, if an elec AC comp was in some way super efficient and only used 1500W, it would still pull >100A on a 12V feed. I think the electric AC systems are from electric cars with much higher voltage supplies available.

On 28/12/2022 at 10:39 AM, GTSBoy said:

My thinking is that mech driven AC comps use a couple of horsepower to drive them. So, if an elec AC comp was in some way super efficient and only used 1500W, it would still pull >100A on a 12V feed. I think the electric AC systems are from electric cars with much higher voltage supplies available.

I agree with electric aircon being a no go from a high electrical load perspective, so with the Race or Gold dampers that brings you back to:

-Having to relocate the ac 25mm to keep it mechanical then go electric ps pump to be able to use your factory viscous fan

-The undesired approach to relocate ac and ps 25mm, ditch viscous fan and switch to thermos or

-Ditch the ac all together, run factory fan and not relocate ps.

I couldn't be f**ked doing any of those options when the Ross Tuffbond is factory alignment and will be fine unless you're looking at 700kw + or stupid 10k rpm stuff.

Thanks for all your reply !

I would prefer to keep the PS stock and elec AC is not really possible as you mention

 

@BK, indeed you already make some explanations but I didn't understood the purpose of the kit, now I do thanks to you

"If you want to run ac they remove the outer damper ps pulley and put an ac pulley in that alignment then bolt the ps pulley on the outside of that pulley. "

I didn't know the outer pulley was screwed to the damper itself !!! this is now 100% clear !

 

Couldn't we run the AC and PS on the same belt ? (so we need only to relocate AC )

Assuming ratio are ok

 

find in attachment some pictures of my r34 gtr

thumbnkail.jpg

thumbnail.jpg

4 hours ago, bigboss59400 said:

Couldn't we run the AC and PS on the same belt ? (so we need only to relocate AC )

It's a lot of load for the one belt to have to pick up at the crank pulley and it would be difficult** to arrange the two pumps so that you go enough wrap on the crank pulley to do it.

**Potentially impossible to transmit sufficient torque even should you be able to locate them so that you can get the maximum wrap around the crank pulley.

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
×
×
  • Create New...