Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Rb25de Valve Spring upgrade

Prof_Finesser

By Prof_Finesser,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Prof_Finesser Enthusiast

Prof_Finesser

Posted
Posted

Hello I had pulled the head off the rb25de from an r32 to check if oil was getting to the head and my buddy told me that these heads tend to float valves around 400whp so I decided that since the head was off again to get upgraded valve springs.  I've read on another post that it would take rb20 valve springs but can anyone confirm?  I'm going to be going with the super tech valve spring kit with retainers.  They have a kit for rb20 and 25.  

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484328-r32-rb25de-valve-spring-upgrade/
Share on other sites
Prof_Finesser Enthusiast

Prof_Finesser

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
39 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

image.thumb.png.d6ecf052a37fd3aa05f431d19682b624.png

On the Kelford and other spring website it says rb25(with NVCS)  and they specifically have springs for rb20/rb25de(nonVCT) I went with the super tech valve spring kit for rb20.  I believe the ones on supertech are for rb25de are for r33 rb25s with vct

Edited by Prof_Finesser
Prof_Finesser Enthusiast

Prof_Finesser

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 8/29/2007 at 12:07 AM, Cubes said:

Ahh I was under the impression you went with the R32 RB25DE head. :D

Yes the R33's run 2 different length springs; they are a tad more than the r32 springs from Performance springs in QLD.

The factory springs may very well do the job with the r33's. The problem witht he R32's is that the springs they use in the R32 Rb25DE head are the same as they are in the RB20DET head. While they are fine controlling a smaller valve with the rb20; once you shove more weight behind from the rb25's head them they struggle. :S

Let us know the seat pressure just for my own curiosity. If need be shim them up a touch to get around 50-55 pounds.

this is what I also found earlier in the day

Prof_Finesser Enthusiast

Prof_Finesser

Posted
  • Author
Posted
14 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Hmm. I guess this makes the thread good reference material for the possibly two or three people in the future who will try something similar with an R32 25 head.

yea I know most people don't really build these so.

Prof_Finesser Enthusiast

Prof_Finesser

Posted
  • Author
Posted
4 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

There never was that many of them in the first place, and it was all such a long time ago. Like hen's teeth. Most people, including myself, apparently, barely even remember that the R32 RB25 was closer to the RB20 than the R33 engines.

This was my first skyline I used to have a e36 m3 and getting this engine I did have to do some research about a couple things but not too much.  

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      I just got to work and skimmed through 61508 and 61511. I was surprised the CSA adopted both, but neither are enforced. To recap what I read, it states that in a perfect world, they should be segregated but they acknowledge that this is not industry standard and clearly mention that they allow mixing of safety and non-safety. 61511 also mentions software segregation like AB does in their safety PLC's.   Now if only I could go back to control, let alone safety over comms. In my current line of work, we're only allowed monitoring and basic control over comms. Everything critical must still be hard wired as much as possible. 
    • TurboTapin
      RB25DET Solid lifter conversion

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      I've unfortunately never been as they're on the complete other side of the continent and another country that isn't currently letting us in as easily as they use to. I even heard their stop signs over there actually say "Stop" instead of "Arret". If I decided to trek the 48h drive, I wouldn't know when or where to stop haha. Whenever I order parts from UP Garage, I order from Japan as it's cheaper. Same with GKTech... oddly enough, it's cheaper shipped from Australia then it is the US.  UP Garage Japan operates their US leg though, unlike Tomei. If Tomei JPN had the power to close down Tomei USA, I'm sure it would be done in a day. They're two completely separate entities. Tomei JPN messed up somewhere originally agreeing to its creation and got sacked big time. 
    • KKaplumbaa
      SR20 to cefiro

      By KKaplumbaa · Posted

      I asked someone about this and he told me about the Audi 1.8T engine. But I think it would be difficult to swap
    • MBS206
      The Cool Tools Thread

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.
    • KKaplumbaa
      SR20 to cefiro

      By KKaplumbaa · Posted

      SR20s came with cars like the Bluebird and Primera, but the RB20 never came. The ones in Turkey were either brought in specially or from abroad. That's why RBs aren't as common as SRs. And if a part breaks or I need to replace it when doing maintenance, it's harder to find parts for RBs.
×
×
  • Create New...