Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey again guys, this is probably a silly question but can someone explain to me why it would be impossible/not smart/wouldn't work to have a Bosch DBW kit connected up to the factory plenum on a rb25det neo that's running a Haltech elite 2500?

If it could work does that mean the old IAC and AAC unit could be removed and blanked off allowing removal of a bunch of coolant lines?

You could make up a kit for yourself. As you'll be making it up yourself, the world's your oyster as to how you achieve this. 

I'm eventually going to run DBW on the factory manifold as well. I'm keeping my eye on this kit so I can have all the hard work done for me. 

https://outsidergarage.com/products/complete-rb-r32-dbw-adapter-kits

13 minutes ago, SandyBill said:

Hey again guys, this is probably a silly question but can someone explain to me why it would be impossible/not smart/wouldn't work to have a Bosch DBW kit connected up to the factory plenum on a rb25det neo that's running a Haltech elite 2500?

If it could work does that mean the old IAC and AAC unit could be removed and blanked off allowing removal of a bunch of coolant lines?

There is nothing inherently wrong with the idea. You are correct that you can remove/blank off the intake air regulator/AAC valve on the side of the OEM plenum. You will need to replace the OEM accelerator pedal with a DBW pedal and retune an Elite 2500 to suit. The barrier as far as I can tell is more practical than anything else as there's no easy kit to do what you're asking for. Most people seem to go aftermarket manifold if they're going to bother with DBW. Personally not a fan of most plenums out there but if I had to pick one it would probably be this one which appears to extend the runners more than most kits out there:

 image.thumb.png.06a9f77937d52182bc17eda28b189901.png

1 hour ago, Murray_Calavera said:

You could make up a kit for yourself. As you'll be making it up yourself, the world's your oyster as to how you achieve this. 

I'm eventually going to run DBW on the factory manifold as well. I'm keeping my eye on this kit so I can have all the hard work done for me. 

https://outsidergarage.com/products/complete-rb-r32-dbw-adapter-kits

That's what I thought as well haha, ooh I'm amazed at how much interesting stuff is coming out of the states for the Neo now.

Would something like the https://www.platinumracingproducts.com/products/platinum-racing-products-drive-by-wire-pedal-throttlebody-kit-to-suit-nissan-r-chassis?variant=43977399075048

Be a good starting point. I can't find any data on how this kits pedal actually goes into a 34 accelerator bracket though.

Edited by SandyBill
45 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

There is nothing inherently wrong with the idea. You are correct that you can remove/blank off the intake air regulator/AAC valve on the side of the OEM plenum. You will need to replace the OEM accelerator pedal with a DBW pedal and retune an Elite 2500 to suit. The barrier as far as I can tell is more practical than anything else as there's no easy kit to do what you're asking for. Most people seem to go aftermarket manifold if they're going to bother with DBW. Personally not a fan of most plenums out there but if I had to pick one it would probably be this one which appears to extend the runners more than most kits out there:

 image.thumb.png.06a9f77937d52182bc17eda28b189901.png

I'm glad to hear I'm not crazy thinking of it, I'm in the same boat with the FFP, I do like the look of the plazmaman but it doesn't appear to have any benefits besides accessing the spark plugs and tidying the open bay up a bit. It's cost/gain ratio lacks and I don't want to be putting that hole through the side of the battery tray. 

The Rajab unit looks nice and compact to still access the fuel side of your strut tower etc! Cheers man

I really like the idea of going DBW the the stock unit and removing some of that potentially obsolete engine control gear.

Edited by SandyBill
2 hours ago, SandyBill said:

really like the idea of going DBW the the stock unit and removing some of that potentially obsolete engine control gear.

Has been done by a member here, can't remember his alias but essentially the DBW flange was welded onto the stock plenum and all the OEM laggy leak valves were deleted.

He's since sold the car. 

I dare say the OEM plenum with an DBW throttle would out perform the fancy stuff.

I know I know, I talk tough with OEM plenums and pushing 400kW out of unopened stock motors but I don't have either of them on my car 😂😂😂

  • Like 3
On 19/01/2023 at 7:42 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:


I know I know, I talk tough with OEM plenums and pushing 400kW out of unopened stock motors but I don't have either of them on my car 

Add Samsonas to that list brah.

  • Haha 2
5 hours ago, SandyBill said:

That's what I thought as well haha, ooh I'm amazed at how much interesting stuff is coming out of the states for the Neo now.

Would something like the https://www.platinumracingproducts.com/products/platinum-racing-products-drive-by-wire-pedal-throttlebody-kit-to-suit-nissan-r-chassis?variant=43977399075048

Be a good starting point. I can't find any data on how this kits pedal actually goes into a 34 accelerator bracket though.

Looks like a good starting point. 

If your keen on it, best bet would be to chat with PRP and see how the peddle bracket mounts up. 

  • Thanks 1
11 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

As is all the Platinum Racing stuff, Plasmaman, etc etc. There wouldn't be too much product being made in the US (or by US outfits) that is an actual new idea. Almost everything has already been done in Japan, Australia and NZ.

Yeah very true 🫡, I was just mainly referring to how much custom fab stuff they have on the sites over there that we usually have to make ourselves or go to a shop to get done. Like different blank plates for things that aren't commonly blanked and ally intercooler piping kits to use the factory holes. I guess cause it's like it's 1998 over there and it's all exciting as a newer skyline gets released into the wild.

11 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Has been done by a member here, can't remember his alias but essentially the DBW flange was welded onto the stock plenum and all the OEM laggy leak valves were deleted.

He's since sold the car. 

I dare say the OEM plenum with an DBW throttle would out perform the fancy stuff.

I know I know, I talk tough with OEM plenums and pushing 400kW out of unopened stock motors but I don't have either of them on my car 😂😂😂

This is what I wanted to hear! Cheers mate, it'll be interesting and I'm going to do it 😏

8 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Looks like a good starting point. 

If your keen on it, best bet would be to chat with PRP and see how the peddle bracket mounts up. 

Cheers buddy I'll give them a bell and see what they say. 

 

I'll keep this thread going with info/pics and work I do or get done 👍

10 minutes ago, SandyBill said:

I was just mainly referring to how much custom fab stuff they have on the sites over there that we usually have to make ourselves or go to a shop to get done. Like different blank plates for things that aren't commonly blanked and ally intercooler piping kits to use the factory holes.

Actually, that more reflects the major difference between the way US car guys modify and the way that Aussies modify. They are absolutely allergic to having to fabricate anything themselves. If they cannot buy it off the shelf, preferably as a complete bolt on kit, they don't do it.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 2
3 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Actually, that more reflects the major difference between the way US car guys modify and the way that Aussies modify. They are absolutely allergic to having to fabricate anything themselves. If they cannot buy it off the shelf, preferably as a complete bolt on kit, they don't do it.

Haha I never thought of it like that so true!

1 hour ago, robbo_rb180 said:

For the pedal a 350z/g35 pedal bolts up no need for the bosch pedal and can be bought for much cheaper.

I preferred drilling 2x new holes next to the original ones to move the pedal more to the right.

Then a bit of a Thai massage on the vice to lower the pedal and it's better than OEM 

5 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I preferred drilling 2x new holes next to the original ones to move the pedal more to the right.

Then a bit of a Thai massage on the vice to lower the pedal and it's better than OEM 

Can we see pics please

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 99.9% of them are viscous diffs. The 0.01% are helicals. They were only option-able in the series 2, as well. I have redline heavy shockproof in my helical. It seems... fine? I don't think anyone is ever going to know until something really breaks and at that point I'm not sure anyone will blame the oil. I just chose it because it's extremely heavy duty and my car will see not-road-legal duty for it. I've also had sadness with various diff oils in the past sweating out everywhere and/or other 'fun' things, with clutch diffs. Given you have a 1.5 way on the shelf, I'd not even bother with the diff in the car and just get to tinkering with it. I would spend the $90 on oil toward the labor of someone else putting the diff in if time poor even lol.
    • I believe mine is helical and not clutch type. During drifting one wheel was spining as if it was open diff so bought kazz 1.5 way and has sat on my shelf for the past 5 years as I want to learn shiming process and do it myself   in meantime thought I change the diff oil hence post here. So any 75-90?   i am pretty sure r34 are helical not clutch lsd as standard . That is gtt ones
    • Throw between gears are so much that is getting annoying. I have pro short shifter on my mx5 and e36 and love it . Skyline is getting unbearable    would syncro issues and short shifter is no no? Anyone mind explaining a little on why before i buy cube
    • No. Well, some people "seem to use redline shockproof in the diff". Most do not. I would only contemplate it if you have badly worn CW&P gears. And no. No-one in their right mind has ever put ATF into a diff. Any normal diff/gear oil of the right viscosity will do. Whatever takes your fancy. Castrol, Nulon, Penrite, Redline MT range. Whatever. It's just gears. 75W-90 or 80W-90 is typical. I think that GL-5 is hard to avoid these days, although I think that a GL-4 is probably preferred, given the vintage of the equipment. At least Redline offer a number of GL-4 oils. If you have a clutch type LSD instead of the VLSD, then of course you need a proper LSD oil. Anything from any of the same names above. If you have a helical LSD, then it does not require LSD oil, and the recco is the same as for the VLSD. You don't want the LSD friction modifiers in the oil for a non-clutch type LSD if you can avoid it.  
    • You may want to list it up for a little higher - This price is much lower than you may realize. Here you're pretty much selling to people who most likely already have these things on their own rigs. S chassis people eat this stuff up like you'd not believe.
×
×
  • Create New...