R33 GTR replacing Enginemounts without removing Engine

[Fastlane]

Here is a short Tutorial How to replace the Engine Mounts by lowering the front axle Member.

After 20-30 years it is always a good Idea to replace them , even if you vibrations or a buzzing noise.

Also Replace the Mounting of the Gearbox and the Proppelershaft!

I couldn`t find anything about this so here I explain how I have done it.

First you have to jack the car and fix the Engine from moving around, this is important cause you get int trouble later when the scrwholes not aligne .

 

Then you hang the engine at the Engine Bay. I have a special Bracket but a Tube and a Strapband will work also. I made myself a link which is screwd at the Engineblock

 

After everything is prepared you can start to remove all the nuts.

Start with the 4 nuts of the Powersteering and the clamps of the oil lines. There is a clamp on the left side over the cv shaft which is a little bit hidden the otherers are easy to locate.

Double check everything is slack, you don't want to bend the lines!

The next step is the trickiest part.

Loose the nuts of the Engine Mounts, 3 of them are easy to reach but the one under Turbo is hard to loose cause there is not much room.

After I tried all my 14mm wrenches, and I have a lot, i figured out this solution.

 

This a 14mm Gearwrench ratchet with a  extendeble double Tube.

The wrench has to be flat without an angle and it should be really long cause the nut is really thight.

With this tool you can get there from the gearbox side and you should be able to remove it.

Before you loose the Axle Member check the aligne holes between the bolts!

Do they match? Take a photo. Mine had a little offset

.

 

Loose the Nuts to the end of the Bolt, do NOT remove them completly.

Then carefuly lower the jack , stop and check if everything is loose and the member ore the line are not bend or stuck.

Remove the nuts on the right side and lower the Jack until you can get the Rubbermount out.

Replace it with the new one , lift the jack , insert the nuts. Do NOT thight them .

Same on the other side.

Compared to the new the olds are 2mm lower and on the Turbo side they hafe some cracks.

Tighten the Nuts of the Axlemember , then the Steeringrack and the Oillines.

Here are the Tightingtorque specs. Tighten the Steeringrack the right way! First the upper Bolts then the lower ones .

This are the required Tools

 

Took me 5 hours total including making the hook and wrench extension, all this is not too complicated, but it's better if you've done similar things before.

 

Possible this is helpfull to someone.