Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am trying to remove the front part of the rear propshaft on a GTR R33

I've removed the 4 flange bolts where the propshaft connects to the transfer box (blue arrow in diagram) and all 6 cap head bolts in the CV joint (red arrow in diagram).

I can not get the CV joint to separate from the rear part of the propshaft. My understanding was that if I pulled down on the disconnected flange of the propshaft (blue arrow in diagram) then the CV joint should just fall away. Unfortunately all that happend was the CV dust cover popped off and a bloody great big ball bearing fell out - the CV joint however stays attached to the rear part of the propshaft. I've also tried tapping it with a hammer and levering it off with a screw driver - unfortunately there is no gap for the screw driver to obtain any leverage.

I've tried searching the forum but it seems that after removal of the 6 cap head bolts the CV joint normally pulls away with ease.

Help please!

Propshaft.jpg

I've never removed the front half of the tailshaft, it sounds like you've separated the centre/hanger bearing.

I'd undo the rear half at the diff, then the 2 bolts for the centre bearing hanger, then take it to a driveshaft shop to properly replace the centre bearing while it is out.....they are all badly worn by this age anyway

2 hours ago, Duncan said:

it sounds like you've separated the centre/hanger bearing

Isn't that the centre bearing marked with the green arrow? As I said in my post it is the CV joint marked ith the red arrow that is the issue.

In the end I tapped the propshaft at the location and direction of the yellow arrow and the CV joint basically split in 2 at the dust cover join leaving half of it still welded to the rear part of the propshaft (see photos).

Although not ideal it suits my purposes (gearbox removal) so will do for now.

I would still like to remove the remainder of the CV joint from the rest of the propshaft for reassembly before re-install but is seems  like it’s welded in place. Other than keep bashing it with a large hammer I’m not sure what to do next.

 

Propshaft 2.jpg

Propshaft - Front Part.jpg

Propshaft - Rear Part.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update for the sake of closure   Ended up getting the intercooler piping all sorted, new plugs and yellow jacket coils, and she was idling mint until it warmed up while I was bleeding the cooling system. Found the misfire to be localised to cyl 3 by unplugging coilpacks, ran a compression test, that checked out, then decided to get a mate to check if that spark plug was firing out of the motor. Upon cranking it over, with the injectors disconnected, the car actually fired and ran on a couple cylinders and heaps of fuel came out the top of cyl 3 I'd say that injector's either spraying incorrectly or spraying far too much, which is fine as I'm planning on replacing them anyway I'm planning on making about 250kW on flex fuel, and have a set of 1000cc injectors from ozautosport, obviously overkill but I'm planning on building the motor and running more boost further down the line, do you reckon they'd be too big for a smooth idle on 98? Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated
    • I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
    • 300hp (225kw) is barely outside the standard turbo's range with a bit of extra boost in it (200ish). If you are going to change the turbo you should aim for 250-300kw (330-400hp) to make the expense worthwhile
    • A couple of things, firstly omg that turbo is expensive! $3,000 USD for dinosaur technology is robbery. You could buy a G series turbo and have a good amount of change instead.  If you want a good budget option, have a look here - https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/ If you are keen to spend more, have look at the modern turbos, Garrett G series, Borgwarner EFR, etc. Have a look at the RB25 dyno results thread for inspiration.  If you upgrade your turbo to something that will support the 300hp you want and only "probably" have Haltech ECU, your car will only "probably" run. Actually, no it won't run. You are going to need the ECU and injectors at the time you do the turbo upgrade.  No thoughts on "this much boost" as you didn't say how much boost that actually is. Having said that, plenty of unopened RB25's making even more power then what you are chasing.   
×
×
  • Create New...