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R33 GTST Instantly Dying

Templim

By Templim,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

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Templim

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The car before started before but would not exceed 3k rpm. I ordered a walbro 255 and a fuel filter and put those both in and I went on a drive and the car was doing fine for about 2 minutes then it just started dying. Now the car has a rough time starting and if it does start it will die 15 seconds after. If I rev the car at 1.5k then its fine and I can drive (which I haven't been doing, I had to get the car from bottom drive way to inside garage). The car does go above 3k rpm now but there's another problem. These problems happened when I put a air filter on and changed the fuel tank seal. I put the old seal back on and bought another maf sensor and tried the old air filter box but no luck.

Seems like the problem is still fuel. could it be the injectors?

 

Thank you

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Templim Contributor

Templim

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I used a pry bar to check each fuel injector and they were all making a clicking sound the same speed.

 

13 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Did you use non submersible fuel hose inside the tank?

I used all the same hoses besides the small one that came with the fuel pump to replace the oem one.

 

15 hours ago, Duncan said:

Since we are all wild guessing, I think there is some crap in your fuel tank. Try changing the fuel filter again and see if it improves for a while

I changed the fuel filter again an hour ago and the car still dies fast

 

22 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

Fuel tank seal can't do anything like you describe, it's odd you changed it back.

How much oil is on the air filter?

 

How dodgy is the maf sensor wiring?

oil in the air filter? There's fuel in the fuel filter and there's no oil in the air filter. The maf sensor wiring looks to be in good shape.

Edited by Templim
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
28 minutes ago, Templim said:

oil in the air filter?

Yes, because....

23 hours ago, Templim said:

tried the old air filter

implies that there was a pod filter of some sort on there and some of these use oiled fabric/foam filter elements, not paper. Which is a very bad idea on AFM equipped cars So it was a sensible question.

 

Have you got any ECU fault codes? Have you got a gaping hole in a boost pipe somewhere?

Templim Contributor

Templim

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No ECU fault codes. I just tested that when I unplug the maf sensor then the car doesn't die anymore put it just keeps reving a 500 then down 500 then back constantly.

 

I guess something with the maf wiring

 

There was the regular oem box filter on then I put a isr intake on there. I tried both but still was having problems and with another maf that I bought

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
10 minutes ago, Templim said:

Is there another way of fixing the car?

If we knew what was wrong with it we could answer this question. These sorts of across the internet diagnostics are close to impossible. It always turns out to be something like "a rat ate one piece of wire and a solar flare damaged this other component and I found a stick of salami in the boot that was crimping a hose over".

Take it to a decent mechanic/auto elec.

Murray_Calavera Mentor

Murray_Calavera

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Templim said:

Is that really the answer? I would need a tune if a buy a new ECU right? Is there another way of fixing the car? 

Well, it's not 'the' answer but it is 'an' answer lol.

It's like if your stock turbo dies, do you really spend $$ to put another stock turbo in there? 

Your average car dude loves a good excuse for an upgrade. I'm just saying this is a good excuse to put the MAF in the bin with a cheeky ECU upgrade. 

And yes, if you get an ECU it will need to be tuned. 

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