Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone

im from melb vic. 

ive got r32  there’s an electric short circuit issue idont have any knowledge about electric stuff if anyone can help me that would be awesome 

so the issue is when I turn the headlights on car burned the wire under the dash which is headlights wire thats wire came from under the dash nd connected to the driver side computer that wire is red colour with blue trace  so the wire is naked fully burned from starting to the end 

then i checked under the driver seat loom found same wire cooked and naked i followed thats wire and remove the centre console again i found same wire naked and burned 

everything was ok when i last time drove it  and she keep blowing the fuse  

ive checked lights were ok no issues 

rear lights checked ok

i cut that wire from near computer beside fusebox  and checked again 

then lights were working and no short circuit but only thing is not working breaklights  it only work while pressing peddle 

so i try  to connect That wire again and checked i found same thing happened wire start burning so ive checked what i know 

if anyone know wuts wrong or anyone lives in melb near west

If someone Have  knowledge about this please let me  will be really appreciated 

thankyou

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484499-r32-skyline-short-circuit/
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

You need to trailer it to an auto-electrician before it burns to the ground.

solid advice, because that is a very real possibility at this stage.

the underlying problem is probably the headlight switch, the whole headlight power goes through it and as it gets old it can have increased resistance. You need to get another switch, I recommend brand new from nissan

For now you have to leave the fuse out and not drive at night. The headlight power wiring (blue/red) goes all over the place because it controls a lot of functions as well as the headlights like dash lights, cigarette lighter lights, tail lights etc etc etc. Somewhere a bare part of that wire is contacting the chassis and shorting so you need to find and fix that, or more likely if you are not confident with electrics replace the whole dash loom and anything else that is damaged (maybe front loom as well)

Yeah  @Duncan I’ve ordered new switch and I’ll replace  soon   And damaged wires too  im looking for an auto electrician in mean time iam stripping parts to check that other wires are okay !

and thanks for your replies @Duncan

@GTSBoy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
    • That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
    • It's about time I start work on my sun tan. So I knocked up a few parts that will all combine together to become my new power steering reservoir. Now just to produce an abundance of UV and IR rays while melting a heap of bits of alu to become one... Well, that's after I put one more hole in it for the return line to plumb to. It likely won't be this weekend, as Sunday I'm meant to be in doing some last minute stuff to the AMG race car, and the weekend after will be filled with non my Skyline stuff, followed by Bathurst 6 hour. So I don't expect to get to melt metal for at least 3 weeks.   I also managed to stuff up and start cutting the hole for the res to pump pipe on the wrong side of the line... It means instead of the lines being nice and tight against the inner guard, they'll be out off the guard.    The size of it means I should end up with about 1.8L of power steering fluid, and still have space for another half a litre before it reaches the overflow/breather. This is wayyyyyyy more capacity than factory, which should help keep Powersteer oil temps lower, and the design hopefully allows it to prevent any aerated oil being able to makes its way down to the bottom as it'll have a couple of baffles and some hopeful trickery to force air bubbles away from the bottom.
×
×
  • Create New...