Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone

im from melb vic. 

ive got r32  there’s an electric short circuit issue idont have any knowledge about electric stuff if anyone can help me that would be awesome 

so the issue is when I turn the headlights on car burned the wire under the dash which is headlights wire thats wire came from under the dash nd connected to the driver side computer that wire is red colour with blue trace  so the wire is naked fully burned from starting to the end 

then i checked under the driver seat loom found same wire cooked and naked i followed thats wire and remove the centre console again i found same wire naked and burned 

everything was ok when i last time drove it  and she keep blowing the fuse  

ive checked lights were ok no issues 

rear lights checked ok

i cut that wire from near computer beside fusebox  and checked again 

then lights were working and no short circuit but only thing is not working breaklights  it only work while pressing peddle 

so i try  to connect That wire again and checked i found same thing happened wire start burning so ive checked what i know 

if anyone know wuts wrong or anyone lives in melb near west

If someone Have  knowledge about this please let me  will be really appreciated 

thankyou

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484499-r32-skyline-short-circuit/
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

You need to trailer it to an auto-electrician before it burns to the ground.

solid advice, because that is a very real possibility at this stage.

the underlying problem is probably the headlight switch, the whole headlight power goes through it and as it gets old it can have increased resistance. You need to get another switch, I recommend brand new from nissan

For now you have to leave the fuse out and not drive at night. The headlight power wiring (blue/red) goes all over the place because it controls a lot of functions as well as the headlights like dash lights, cigarette lighter lights, tail lights etc etc etc. Somewhere a bare part of that wire is contacting the chassis and shorting so you need to find and fix that, or more likely if you are not confident with electrics replace the whole dash loom and anything else that is damaged (maybe front loom as well)

Yeah  @Duncan I’ve ordered new switch and I’ll replace  soon   And damaged wires too  im looking for an auto electrician in mean time iam stripping parts to check that other wires are okay !

and thanks for your replies @Duncan

@GTSBoy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
×
×
  • Create New...