Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all,

R33 Skyline has a bit of rust. Never really noticed it, as car hasn't been driven in a long while- but there is a lot more rust than I expected.

These photos are mostly of the portion of the wheel arch toward the front of the car, in front of the strut tower. Usually where the air filter sits- hence haven't noticed them as there was an airbox in there.

Basically, is this repairable?

In the wheel arch it has not penetrated through, but it doesn't look good to me- and I don't know if it's even repairable.

Does anyone have experience with this sort of thing? I'm quite worried.

Cheers

72ACDDE1-903E-4716-9803-40BAEA3CD699.thumb.png.9a3a7e68baa99711d447d4347378663f.png
Passenger side underneath near air filter location (photo flipped)


DDB1C607-D73D-41FB-B749-55CC559C2125.thumb.png.3f5ca8e1508c91349adf012e7775cc27.png

Drivers side between fuse box+strut tower

0D2A75FE-A05F-4B6D-AA50-972A7C6A2AC7.thumb.png.e2806bd59df9a576ad451f602f6c7998.png
Next to import vin plate below strut tower

CDE2BE58-E99E-4506-ACFA-B45B5B84FDC8.thumb.png.64a8d03ccfe80ab9a15111985d3fb287.png
Passenger side seam weld, strut tower to the right side of picture (airfilter sits here)

A8ED4324-2532-484D-B73C-2A744E42226E.thumb.png.1a35abb11eac0d7aba58e25161c66657.png 

Passenger side next to strut tower

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484555-rust-spots-r33-how-stuffed-am-i/
Share on other sites

That's all repairable, but no such repair is particularly cheap. Somewhat total dismantlery required. Possible remaking or theft of replacement panel sections required.

33s and 34s a re a bit shit in the tower area. They have multiple layers of steel that get wet and rot. The middle layer rots completely before you see anything on the outside.

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

That's all repairable, but no such repair is particularly cheap. Somewhat total dismantlery required. Possible remaking or theft of replacement panel sections required.

33s and 34s a re a bit shit in the tower area. They have multiple layers of steel that get wet and rot. The middle layer rots completely before you see anything on the outside.

Damn.

So not an easy or cheap job.

This car is so damn expensive as is, I can barely afford it 😭

23 minutes ago, BigDogRB said:

I don't know if i'd call it superficial. Looks pretty crap

Correct, it's not superficial. It's very common unfortunately :(

I just went crazy with the fish oil in my car and am doing lots of fingers crossed nothing gets worse. 

When the time comes I'll start hitting up workshops like this - and have everything restored better then factory. When it comes time to pay I'll just close my eyes and give them a credit card. 

http://olschoolgarage.com.au/

5 hours ago, BigDogRB said:

Damn.

So not an easy or cheap job.

This car is so damn expensive as is, I can barely afford it 😭

Unfortunately a pretty big job to fix. And if there’s rust there I bet you have more waiting under the plastic cowling  near where the wipers sit and the A pillar drains.

  • Sad 1
2 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

pretty big job, but not impossible!

Just wait till you build a 745.7kW car, then repair/respray the engine bay.

When the stock 25DET goes pop, i'll be pulling it out and redoing the bay then.

I hope the rust repairs are doable DIY. The cost some places apparently charge is way, way out of budget.

9 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

Unfortunately a pretty big job to fix. And if there’s rust there I bet you have more waiting under the plastic cowling  near where the wipers sit and the A pillar drains.

I hope not!

Car was rust free when I bought it 2-3 years ago. Guessing it had some but never got up to the surface.

I made sure to buy a 'rust free' example- lol.

Probably due to living 3km from the beach. Paint has faded too- at lot in the past 2 years, despite it being in shade regularly. Especially for a white car- paint fade is odd.

I'm guessing the rust and fade is related to salty air. Any solutions to prevent this occuring?

3 minutes ago, BigDogRB said:

When the stock 25DET goes pop, i'll be pulling it out and redoing the bay then.

I hope the rust repairs are doable DIY. The cost some places apparently charge is way, way out of budget.

You will need to cut into it, rust converter and weld up, add seam sealer, etc. then respray.

Not impossible, but not fun either lol.

I went in for a basic "respray", nek minnit.............. yeah could have just bought another car with that money LOL.

I had the same issues.

1 hour ago, BigDogRB said:

Any solutions to prevent this occuring?

Yes. Make distance from beach >> 3km. I live 20km from beach and never take my (also white) car within 10km of it. Unsurprisingly, it doesn't have these problems. OK, it also lives under cover, but it does get driven in the rain all the time. So it's no garage queen.

3 hours ago, BigDogRB said:

I hope not!

Car was rust free when I bought it 2-3 years ago. Guessing it had some but never got up to the surface.

I made sure to buy a 'rust free' example- lol.

There is always rust on those spots for R33s. The only question is how much. Somewhere between surface rust and a hole forming. Salt spray especially is kryptonite for these cars so I don't really know what to tell you there.

  • Like 1
7 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

Salt spray especially is kryptonite for these cars so I don't really know what to tell you there

Salt spray a la salted roads in snowy parts of the US is substantially different from just being near the coast in Oz (ie, much much worse), but broadly speaking bathing the car in salty air does them no favours at all.

Many R33s came to Oz with rust already well established from Japanese roads, and then the rust more or less stopped progressing in many of them when they got to a dry climate. But, once rust is there, it is only a little bit of trapped water or sea air away from starting to move again.

It didn't ultimately matter, as most were drifted into telephone poles before they rusted away. It's only the survivors that we have to worry about now.

  • Haha 2
10 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

It didn't ultimately matter, as most were drifted into telephone poles before they rusted away. It's only the survivors that we have to worry about now.

LOL

  • Haha 1

Normal for R33 and R34. If the original owners in Japan didn't have a lockup garage then they were all parked on the street exposed to the elements. Rust starts inside out from the intersecting metal sheets.

Mine came from Hamamatsu, Shizuoka a region where it rarely snows and still have the same problem.  Best you can do is a band aid solution and wait until you fix it properly. Australia is essentially sub-tropical so rust shouldn't develop too fast.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah i agree paint match stops it from standing out so much, oh that's actually really good to know i was wondering if it would help with air flow now actually having an outlet in the bonnet. Will have to focus on ducting into and out of the radiator now to make the most of it.
    • I would paint match the whole thing to avoid unwanted attention  I had a similar bonnet, paint matched, on my old R33 GTST, but mine was a fibreglass jobbie made by Blitz in QLD, they work extremely well for radiator efficiency and under bonnet temps
    • Does anyone run this kit with factory plenum? Does the adapter and bosch tb fit under factory strut brace? I wanted to get this setup before going forward facing manifold. Thanks
    • small update time, after always wanting a "cool" looking bonnet for my car and always struggling to find one for the series 2 that i liked and wasn't an insane amount of money. Saw one i liked on RHDjapan from D-speed in Japan the price was very good for a carbon bonnet so good infact i was a little unsure how much i trusted it, decided to bite the bullet and with the help of jesse streeter in not long at all it was at my door. Once it was delivered i ran in from work and quickly unboxed it and to my surprise the quality was actually pretty good i quickly removed the old bonnet and placed on the new one to test it out and even the fitment wasnt too bad at all. Then decided to paint the little grille in the bonnet black to stop it sticking out so much.   I decided to not mess around with the hood latch and just install some aero catch hood pins, having never installed them before did some YouTube university classes and i was good to go. fair to say it is not a fun job at all from making brackets so the pins sit nicely and actually cutting through the bonnet but also being very scared of cutting the holes too big it took wayyyy longer than i would like to admit but finally got it there. Then it was time for a quick test drive to ensure the latches actually worked and thankfully the bonnet looked very stable. I still think paint matching the bonnet and leaving just the part that sticks up as carbon would help make it all look alot neater as im not sure how i feel about all that carbon on a very fridge white car but will leave it as is and see how i feel with time.  
    • I think it's bound to happen, you finally get it all perfect, and bam, something will happen. I took a while to get a Commodore rear quarter repaired where a P Plater clipped it. Two days after getting it back, Sarah wiped it out on a concrete pillar in an underground car park... This is why I take forever to repair them, it stretches how long until it gets bent again... 😛
×
×
  • Create New...