Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I recently purchased a V35 with a few electrical issues:

1. The indicator lights in the cluster sometimes dont work - I found that tapping on the top of the cluster when they're not working usually gets them to turn on. clearly an intermittent connection somewhere.

2. The up and down shift "buttons" dont do anything. (by buttons I mean pushing the gearstick over to the left then briefly forward or backward).

3. The fuel gauge is stuck at full. could be the sender.

4. The boot light doesn't work with a new bulb. Where is the switch BTW?

If anyone has any experience with the above I'd love to hear what you found. However what I'd really like is a wiring diagram. Can anyone direct me to where one might be found?

David

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484571-v35-electrical-gremlins/
Share on other sites

I used to have a V35. In regards to item 3. Fuel gauge issues are very common, and for me, it worked, it failed, I had the sender cleaned,  it worked, it failed again, I gave up. most people I have read about have the issue where it never show's as being totally filled up or always sits in the red when there are lots of K's left of fuel. But maybe the dirty sender has yours stuck in the up position at the sender. Long story short, fuel gauge issues are common and almost expected. 

The next electrical issue you should expect are the electrical window winders failing. For this one, I cleaned my old ones out & lubricated appropriately using electrically conductive grease, and they worked perfectly & reliably from that point on.

2 hours ago, Spoddy said:

1. The indicator lights in the cluster sometimes dont work - I found that tapping on the top of the cluster when they're not working usually gets them to turn on. clearly an intermittent connection somewhere.

Take the cluster out and look at the globes where they are bayoneted into the instrument panel. Could be loose/dirty or the globes could have broken filaments that sometimes touch and provide a circuit and sometimes just hang with an airgap.

You can get the G35 FSM here, it is generally close enough for most things -

https://www.nicoclub.com/infiniti-service-manuals

What year?  the cluster changed from incandescent bulbs to LEDs in 2005. but even then, you can still have bad connections that cause issues, I had a dry joint on a surface mount transistor on my 2005 that caused the odo backlights to go out occasionally.

Fuel gauge issues seem to be common too, mine sometimes reads high, then returns to normal for a while, then reads high again, I have never worked it out, I've removed, cleaned and tested both senders, check for bad connections, yet it still occurs

Sorry I don't have any solid solutions, but hopefully the FSM is useful.

 

Thanks for the suggestions.

Last night I took out the back seat and disconnected the electrical harnesses on both sides - didn't make any difference to the fuel gauge, it went straight to full when I turned on the ignition. Unless it averages the value over time (hence takes a while to drop) this would seem to rule out the sender.

Will remove the cluster on the weekend.

 

Once you unplug either of the 2 connectors on the fuel tank, the gauge should fall to zero.  Since yours does not, you either have a short in your wiring harness somewhere between the tank connectors and the cluster.  or the cluster itself is faulty.

There is a test procedure in the FSM you can run on the cluster which should cause the fuel gauge to show half, regardless of what the signal from the sender is, this should help isolated the fault to the cluster or the wiring.

  • Like 1
14 hours ago, sonicii said:

There is a test procedure in the FSM you can run on the cluster which should cause the fuel gauge to show half, regardless of what the signal from the sender is, this should help isolated the fault to the cluster or the wiring.

good to know, I'll look it up, thanks.

15 hours ago, sonicii said:

There is a test procedure in the FSM you can run on the cluster which should cause the fuel gauge to show half, regardless of what the signal from the sender is, this should help isolated the fault to the cluster or the wiring.

I tried running the test - the fuel gauge meter comes up to about half way, points to a wiring issue.

  • Like 1

For the benefit of people searching for solutions in the future, I found the following:

1. The problem with the indicator mimic lights in the cluster was caused by a dry joint on the cluster PCB. I traced the indicator LEDs to a common SMD resistor - the soldering looked OK but when I thought I'd resolder it anyway, since I'd come so far. As I pushed on one end with the soldering iron tip to apply heat, the part moved - it was not soldered well on the other end.  Having found one fault I went over the rest of the large resistors on the PCB and found quite a few like this.

2. The up and down shift "buttons" started working after the fault codes were cleared - the check engine light was on. I'd say the functionality is inhibited whenever the check engine light is on as a means to give you incentive to get the car fixed. The check engine light problem is I think due to a faulty brake vac sensor. 

FYI

I have yet to figure out the fuel gauge or boot light issues.

 

David

 

  • Like 3
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...