Jump to content
SAU Community

Need help! r33 GTS-T brake bleed problems.

IXMandalorianXI
 Share

Recommended Posts

IXMandalorianXI Explorer

IXMandalorianXI

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hello all,

Need some major help, doing a ton of research this weekend, and hoping someone can help me.

Situation: Today I was flushing my brakes with denatured alcohol to remove Silicone DOT 5 with intent to replace it with Glycol DOT 4. I was using a pressure bleeder to one-man bleed. I have GT-R Brembo brakes with the two bleeder valves on top. The bleed started off well. I bled both the rear calipers without much trouble and pushed out the old brake fluid until only alcohol was coming out. However, when I went to bleed my front-passenger caliper, I got nothing, no fluid. To make matter worse, my pressure bleeder just stopped working and would not hold pressure. I borrowed a compressed air vacuum bleeder from the shop and tried that, but sttill nothing. My passenger-front caliper will not bleed. no fluid, nothing. I tried with the vacuum bleeder, and only managed to extract the fluid that was in the caliper. After that, nothing. I tried with the two-person bleed method, still nothing. The other three calipers will bleed, but this one will not. Additionally, there appears to be no pressure building up in the brake pedal. Even when starting the car. We can get a small amount of pressure, but not very much.

Any advice? And thoughts? Any experience? I'm going through forum posts and YouTube videos. Im at a dead-end right now. Could it be air trapped in the ABS? Could it be a problem with the master cylinder?

Thank you in advance.

Edited by IXMandalorianXI
Murray_Calavera Mentor

Murray_Calavera

Posted
Posted

I've seen brake fluid turn to a jelly like substance and then become really difficult to bleed. Have you tried removing the bleeder nipple completely and jamming the vacuum bleeder in the hole?

Other thoughts include removing the ABS unit from the equation - https://au.gktech.com/stainless-steel-braided-teflon-lined-abs-delete-kit

  • Like 1
IXMandalorianXI Explorer

IXMandalorianXI

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 4/8/2023 at 10:54 PM, Murray_Calavera said:

I've seen brake fluid turn to a jelly like substance and then become really difficult to bleed. Have you tried removing the bleeder nipple completely and jamming the vacuum bleeder in the hole?

Other thoughts include removing the ABS unit from the equation - https://au.gktech.com/stainless-steel-braided-teflon-lined-abs-delete-kit

I think this might have been it.

I ended up letting the car sit for two days with the denatured alcohol (hobby shop was closed for Easter) and when I went back on Tuesday and tried again, everything bled without a problem. Best guess I have is that was some sort of blockage and the alcohol broke it down.

 

Murray_Calavera Mentor

Murray_Calavera

Posted
Posted
14 minutes ago, IXMandalorianXI said:

I think this might have been it.

I ended up letting the car sit for two days with the denatured alcohol (hobby shop was closed for Easter) and when I went back on Tuesday and tried again, everything bled without a problem. Best guess I have is that was some sort of blockage and the alcohol broke it down.

 

The curse of the jelly brake fluid strikes again lol.

Glad it's sorted now though :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      R32 gtr hood latch support/lock part number search

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      65601-05U00 is the hood latch. 62550-08U31 is the support that holds it to the radiator core support. They are all super discontinued so I don't really have any great leads on how to source this stuff.
    • Watermouse
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Watermouse · Posted

      GTSBoy on your suggestion on another thread I had a look at those injectors and ended up getting them because of the quality.  Got the expensive ones.  
    • PranK
      Happy New Year!

      By PranK · Posted

      Happy new year!
    • eli995
      R32 gtr hood latch support/lock part number search

      By eli995 · Posted

      Hey guys been looking everywhere to try and find the correct gtr hood latch support part number but only found the first half and when I search with that number it sends me to an r34. The first part I found was 62515. If anyone could help me with the rest then I’d really appreciate it. Or if there’s some alternative hood latch support that would work even better cause I can’t find any for sale. (Searched on upgarage, partsouq,buyee,rhdjapan) 
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
×
×
  • Create New...