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I had some time so I figured I'd document this, as information out there is very piecemeal and scattered. There's 2 methods of doing this conversion. First method is using an adapter flywheel with original bell housing and second is using regular RB flywheel with milled down bell housing. This will document the second method.

I find there's a lot more pro's then con's with the milled bellhousing method for the following reasons.

1. You're not stuck with a specific flywheel made by only one company. You can use any regular RB flywheel.

2. You cannot purchase an off the shelf twin plate clutch due to flywheel limitations.

3. Adapter flywheels are a fair bit longer. I dislike the idea of adding weight further from the crank and main bearing. 

4. Shifter sits a lot closer to original location. 

5. You can avoid having to deal with dumpster fire companies like Collins Adapters. 

 

Lets start. First step, purchase a CD00A transmission from your local dealer. If memory serves me right, I paid 2600$CDN in July 2022. 

image.thumb.jpeg.2fc5e2fe7b5d9090348de9ce279980d4.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.df5b1ddb00a6f4354517bf71c5e92c24.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.d62dba0d0687019baca53fa0dbccbaab.jpeg

Remove the bits you wont need as you'll need a different shifter kit. 

image.thumb.jpeg.dec02656365901b2f0e3688dbdc3d655.jpeg

Next we'll need to remove the bell housing to have to milled down.

Remove the front cover bolts and front cover. Remove the circlip and bearing (Not pictured). Lastly, remove the hidden bolt under the shift linkage cover. This process is well documented in many Youtube videos so I won't delve more into it. Bell housing will come off with some love from a rubber mallet afterwards.

image.thumb.jpeg.91e834c7a0a9176d65422ed8310de5e2.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.3d3cbb6ecd6587c1c750085aa493434b.jpeg

Once removed, drop it off at your local machine shop to have them mill it down 15mm. Before and after picture below.

image.thumb.jpeg.c4b0a3aa67a7432befdfeca729e6b51d.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.4b06c1d7100f66c850913c70fbcf2e52.jpeg

The starter on an RB does not sit in the same location on the CD009 transmission so the bellhousing needs to be massaged a tad to fit. Some just notch it out completely, but I find it a hack job. I removed just enough meat for it to fit.

image.thumb.jpeg.2887841c9632b001b9db35e4bf2b7ff8.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.a8069dcee4f82e1b6576b54f0ac98602.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.af12b0b272cf12eabadcc4e4b0557a05.jpeg

I also recut a drain path for oil/water in the original location. 

image.thumb.jpeg.3e4ea34f8f3cdfd5486927ceb0dd414b.jpeg

Next was to reinstall the bell housing and my shifter kit. I went with the SerialNine CD999 Technical shifter. From my findings, it's the closest to sit in the factory location.

image.thumb.jpeg.a73d83c6060111200921ee0e44c1bf27.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.56c4d03d69022418b8869deac5e2c6d7.jpeg

Lastly for the transmission, you'll need to measure which release bearing will fit. X-Clutch (Australian Clutch Services) has a nice TSB documenting how to measure it.

TSB-203.pdfimage.thumb.png.b5ec4de34e0b0e8d3d7001e0b0b3057d.png

I required a 32mm release bearing with an X-Clutch twin disk. Expect much longer with a single plate clutch. Here's a list of Nissan release bearing lengths and part numbers. If you require more, Collins does sell a 42mm release bearing.

Part number-------------Size

30501-A3800------------12 mm
30501-N1600------------14 mm
30501-U200-------------16 mm
30501-S0200------------18 mm
30501 -B6000-----------20 mm
30501-S0160------------22 mm
30501-K0401------------24 mm
30501-K0510------------26 mm
30501-N1600------------28 mm
30501-N8400------------30 mm
30501-U8500------------32 mm

With the transmission ready, I got to work on the car. Install your adapter plate of choice on the engine. I went with a Collins adapter, but knowing what I know why; I would avoid them like the plague. As the CD009 transmission is a lot bulkier, you will also need to enlarge two areas in the transmission tunnel for it to fit. First, the area where the bellhousing and adapter plate meet (Not pictured) and second, where the tunnel narrows down for the transmission mount. This took a fair bit of work with an air hammer and back and forth with the transmission in place. It's very tight but it fits.

image.thumb.jpeg.9456bb1b6db71cdf2ddc1cc643829fff.jpeg

Next up, is to finally get the transmission installed. It was a must for me to have to drop my motor a tad lower by loosening the 4x subframe nuts. Be careful with this as you don't want your motor and subframe to drop to the ground. Just before fabbing a mount, you'll need to measure and adjust your transmission angle in comparison with your differential. You're looking for equal and opposite. As my diff flange sat 2 degree's up, I adjusted the motor/transmission angle to be 2 degree's down. 

image.thumb.png.566b7f82ebf565f33007ba0d6aa59426.png

I fabbed up a mount bracket with 2" flat bar and a GKTech RB trans rubber mount. The RB and CD009 mount holes are identical and it bolts right up.

image.thumb.jpeg.c8d2b32a141da9a497f67a56341b8d5a.jpeg

Lastly I had to trim the shifter hole a tad. The shifter sits in the original location, but still required trimming for the base. I made another plate to cover it and then covered it with sound deadening. 

image.thumb.jpeg.c1fadb67ef97ddae1fc3e0a4a0fe9d01.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.283c246bab91fcc65088a81ec8dcdc32.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.27e531606d71c79f1e7a56ecad2ae04b.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.3e15fd0081217f4c637b0e27feccd3fa.jpeg

And that should wrap it up. Now, sit back and enjoy your 6 speed that should in theory support 1000hp! One last thing I wanted to add is that the CD009 is not a great match for the 4.1-4.3 final drives you find on most skylines. I went ahead and popped in a speedtek 3.3 final drive, but I did drive it with a 4.3 for a short period of time. 1st-4th gears were useless and I'd cruise around 50kmh in 5th gear. 

 

 

 

 

 

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On 4/11/2023 at 12:49 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

You should open up a drive in and drive out service.

(In Sydney, Australia lol).

I would drop off the shit box for this service.

Haha, summer all year round you say? Count me in! 

On 4/11/2023 at 3:58 AM, Murray_Calavera said:

Thanks for posting this up, the work is very impressive!

Do you mind saying what the total cost of the conversion was in the end?

Thanks! Here's the parts I used. Prices in CDN which is very close to AUD. Cheers!

CD00A Transmission - 2600$
RB/CD009 Adapter - 600$
RB/CD009 Driveshaft - $600
Nissan 32mm Release bearing - 40$
Speedtek 3.33 Final Drive - 750$
CD009 Slave cylinder - 50$
Serial nine CD999 Shifter - 600$
 

 

  • Like 2
  • 1 year later...

I am currently in the process of CD swapping my R33 (I cooked a band new R34 GTT box). I was hesitant to attempt it and looked for alternatives (8hp, T56, dogbox stock box) until I saw Mazworxs released the RBVQ bell housing adapter, which will let me run my twin-disk, and I assume better overall clearance. Anyways I am in the middle of swapping it in; I wanted to share pics of the clearance if anyone else is looking to the Mazworxs adapter.

at 0* engine angle (pink socket) I see about 14mm of clearance, and at 3* (red socket) I see 20mm of clearance. I'll be chopping my CD tomorrow and attempting to set it in more permanently, then move onto mounts. 

IMG_9138.thumb.jpeg.64e46934be68ba6f702d7e66c66cd0da.jpegIMG_9136.thumb.jpeg.18ebd79e5dff2a890dac129c1db20865.jpegIMG_9137.thumb.jpeg.a4979e74ab76144f59b86cf6c13648ac.jpegIMG_9132.thumb.jpeg.bee7d31c1d826c9fb9290860727f2f1d.jpegIMG_9134.thumb.jpeg.48f376a3be728eef6ed5dba50ae6ca6b.jpeg

Pics attached. 

IMG_9143.jpeg

IMG_9142.jpeg

IMG_9135.jpeg

IMG_9130.jpeg

IMG_9129.jpeg

IMG_9124.jpeg

IMG_9126.jpeg

IMG_9125.jpeg

Edited by tidi0x
posted blank
  • Like 5

I made more progress today. I followed the Mazworx instructions for the SR trans, Marked a line 1/4in in from the second rib on the housing; that cut went well using a sawzall and a grinder. However I want to note, the bottom two bolts are very close to the bell housing, I accidentally cut a bit into the aluminum there; should be fine, but I overlooked it, its easy to f**k that up. After that I circumsized the input shaft 3/8in and beveled it; then assembled the housing on to the trans. That part was easy, just need to RTV the bottom 4 bolts, and use the two Allen bolts of the bottom. One thing I noticed about the bell housing bolts that were included, there is 4, and one is longer than the others. I am not 100% where each needs to go atm. 

As for the clutch fork and TOB; the new one with the CD is near identical to my old one for the Skyline so I plan to use the new CD kit. 

As for how the trans in... It was fairly easy. I was able to get it to sit in at a 1* angle; there is no clearancing issues from the bell housing or the top, The only area that is a problem is the mid plate. On the passengers side the mid plate bolts are hitting the trans mount; this is the only interference, I might be able to shift towards the drivers side, or smooth down the trans, or bash the mount a touch. Either way the fitment looks good and I'm fairly happy for now; ill play with it during the week.

I also measured from the face of the output shaft area to the diff at ~57 1/4" or 145.5 cm (not a final measurement). I am debating my DS options. 

Pics attached 

IMG_9147.jpegIMG_9151.jpegIMG_9153.jpeg

IMG_9154.jpegIMG_9155.jpegIMG_9158.jpeg

IMG_9159.jpegIMG_9160.jpeg

IMG_9184.jpegIMG_9181.jpegIMG_9162.jpegIMG_9166.jpegIMG_9163.jpeg

IMG_9168.jpegIMG_9180.jpegIMG_9179.jpeg

Edited by tidi0x
  • Like 3
  • 1 month later...
On 8/26/2024 at 9:31 AM, tidi0x said:

I made more progress today. I followed the Mazworx instructions for the SR trans, Marked a line 1/4in in from the second rib on the housing; that cut went well using a sawzall and a grinder. However I want to note, the bottom two bolts are very close to the bell housing, I accidentally cut a bit into the aluminum there; should be fine, but I overlooked it, its easy to f**k that up. After that I circumsized the input shaft 3/8in and beveled it; then assembled the housing on to the trans. That part was easy, just need to RTV the bottom 4 bolts, and use the two Allen bolts of the bottom. One thing I noticed about the bell housing bolts that were included, there is 4, and one is longer than the others. I am not 100% where each needs to go atm. 

As for the clutch fork and TOB; the new one with the CD is near identical to my old one for the Skyline so I plan to use the new CD kit. 

As for how the trans in... It was fairly easy. I was able to get it to sit in at a 1* angle; there is no clearancing issues from the bell housing or the top, The only area that is a problem is the mid plate. On the passengers side the mid plate bolts are hitting the trans mount; this is the only interference, I might be able to shift towards the drivers side, or smooth down the trans, or bash the mount a touch. Either way the fitment looks good and I'm fairly happy for now; ill play with it during the week.

I also measured from the face of the output shaft area to the diff at ~57 1/4" or 145.5 cm (not a final measurement). I am debating my DS options. 

Pics attached 

IMG_9147.jpegIMG_9151.jpegIMG_9153.jpeg

IMG_9154.jpegIMG_9155.jpegIMG_9158.jpeg

IMG_9159.jpegIMG_9160.jpeg

IMG_9184.jpegIMG_9181.jpegIMG_9162.jpegIMG_9166.jpegIMG_9163.jpeg

IMG_9168.jpegIMG_9180.jpegIMG_9179.jpeg

Been awhile, how is it going? 

  • 2 weeks later...

Update... 

After my last update there was two issues I ran into. The first was the driveshaft, mainly that I wanted a 1350 joint on both ends as I am making ~700+whp... Spicer makes a 1350 yoke out of the CD, but looking everywhere all I could find was 1310's for the rear diff face yoke for the R200 (Mine happens to be a z32 swap). Until I found Driftmotion out of CA makes billet R200 flange yokes, I reached out to them to verify if they offered an Old style R200 not the 350z style, and Arron said they had a few in both styles. Anyways Arron over there is awesome, so I gave him my measurements and a week or so later I got my new driveshaft. The fit up is solid, however I did need to remove the cup on the back of my CD as the shaft yoke was too wide to fit in the cup. The driveshaft is sorted and will handle everything I throw at it.

IMG_9298.thumb.jpeg.29234820a0e2aa72688f9915f40bf505.jpegIMG_9297.thumb.jpeg.9b9816a25e2aaf1d55d756fd362dce4e.jpegIMG_9299.thumb.jpeg.83c19366d4d9faf39012609fb6bb2ef5.jpegIMG_9993.thumb.jpeg.e5c6a540a4f0f524de0a5111d1f939cc.jpegIMG_9991.thumb.jpeg.dfec83bb5a817e3464a5bc6aec73e49c.jpeg

I also tig'd up a mild steel trans mount. I used an energy suspension T56 trans mount as they work for the CD, it's universal so cheaper and easier to find. I made a decent mount, I am absolutely not a fabricator but It will work. I intend on replacing It at some point with something I model in CAD and send to send cut send. When I built it I used some trig to get the operating angles right since I did not have a driveshaft at the time. I left myself some gap to shim the trans up with plates to get it dialed in. The only thing that bugs me is I went a touch too narrow on the cross bar, but it supports and functions well. 

IMG_9206.thumb.png.92b69cede0325bf8c052fb4ab1207cd8.pngIMG_0005.thumb.jpeg.9331679d87247fc923edf7018278bad9.jpegIMG_0006.thumb.jpeg.d8b995ed122e5d70cf3ac80550abe6e3.jpegIMG_9215.thumb.jpeg.6880ca2d984bca7ff20198698792e578.jpegIMG_9217.thumb.jpeg.c14462660a79e91601b37197c48b1b6e.jpeg

However my current and persisting issue is with the clutch. The first pass of "Final" install on the trans I reused the pivot ball and fork from the CD as the setup was identical to what I was running on my RB big box. However once it was installed  it was clear I did not get the full travel only half. I thought it could be that I am running the transmission plate or the fact there is really 2 pivot ball sizes 41mm and 54mm. Mazworx was not super helpful and said "the bell housing was dimensionally the same an OEM one", and that I need to "use an RB26 push config" which is technically what I was using. So I ordered the 54mm pivot ball incase that is correct, Tonight I swapped it in and it also does not seem correct. I am going to spend some time researching, because I hope they don't mean I also need to run the stamped steel RB26 fork, and I want to avoid purchasing the $500 tilton kit. Either way this is where I am currently stuck... One other note about the Mazworx housing, the clutch slave provision does not fit either, so I will need to clearance material to make it sit flush with the mounting face. Side note, I am using a RB25 Spec twin disk clutch, It worked great on my previous box, their kit is the same for GTS-T and GTR so I don't think the clutch is the problem.

 

IMG_9294.thumb.jpeg.150a97c07c31b93cf30481886e5c7cae.jpegIMG_0001.thumb.jpeg.6b1842153b42e9e71dd956e8d8012a10.jpegIMG_0004.thumb.jpeg.7c268adea27c3f338269b90a61fea504.jpeg

  • Like 1

Follow up to my last update….

I was wrong about the clutch setup. Mazworx was right, dimensionally everything is the same.

I probably did not have the bell housing all the way tight, or because the slave was not in the milled pocket all the way it was not functioning right. I went ahead and refitted the trans and everything is good 👍. That being said the clutch slave pocket not being milled out caused a headache for me. I need to cut away material from it to fit the slave in correctly, and even when I thought it was flush it was not and I cracked the iron bolt holes. I have a new nismo one sitting ready to go in so nbd, but it’s a miss I’m surprised they didn’t check. either way the clutch setup is good now, and functions well.

 

IMG_0016.thumb.jpeg.8f2cb343eefe902a0f5be9cad0a11c78.jpegIMG_0024.thumb.jpeg.e5a8def8aa4553521df9ed9b3d519c2d.jpeg


I was able to drive the car, first off the shifter feels great, it’s super tight and precise compared to the 5 speed. I went with the serial nine cd999 shifter since it had the shallowest mounting; I was considering the gktech, but it looked a touch longer. (I don’t have any photos atm of the hole I had to cut I’ll add those tonight.) 

the only other driveline issue I had was with the driveshaft being so big it was clicking on the parking brake cable tabs, so those will need to be either bent or replaced to make work. 
 

otherwise my swap is done. In the end for my swap I used…

- brand new cd009 (used the clutch fork, pivot ball, and TOB) 

- Mazworx VQRB bell housing kit

- kept my old twin disk clutch

- Driftmotion 1350 driveshaft (if your not over 600whp you can probably run a 1310 yoke setup)

- Serial nine cd999 shifter

- home made transmission mount. 
 

it’s fairly straightforward to do this swap, if I was doing this, I would do this route again. The bell housing allows for lots of clearance to get the transmission in; I don’t need to take it to a machine shop. Hope this helps others in the future, and I hope the cd can really handle the 1k hp like people say it can. 

 

 

 

  • Like 1

Any plans to seal it from the cabin? It will throw plenty of oil/grime over the years.

On my auto to manual Stagea there is a custom ally sheet  to cover most of the hole then the standard rubber seal is attached to that to join to the shifter

Yes, I've been thinking about how to fabricate something. Either how OP did it with an alloy sheet or more complicated. Because of the CD shifter protrusion I think I will need to build a raised aluminum box to clear, then I would reutilize the same OE seal just shifted back. When I went on my test drive I popped open the EWG and exhaust just filled the cabin, so it will need to be closed up.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Bumping this up one last time.... I wanted to follow up on the clutch slave issue. I realized that what the issue comes down to is the pocket is flat milled, and the cylinder does not want rest flat. So in order to mount it correctly you will need to make a spacer for the fingers so the cylinder is floating. I took two plates of aluminum, drilled some holes and was good. I did still need to make the relief cuts in the bell housing, as even with the spacer the bleed section still interferes. The OE bell housing the mounting holes are raised from the housing. 

 

IMG_0086.thumb.jpeg.36c996c49a114237e446154b63777a39.jpegIMG_0087.thumb.jpeg.07a93aff49ca499a5b45284d83be9605.jpegIMG_0090.thumb.jpeg.7e914642b0a32645e0d2aac5b56ed244.jpegIMG_0092.thumb.jpeg.f550bc68bf6c9e935c3766a401753ebe.jpeg

 

 

IMG_0091.jpeg

  • Like 2
On 4/9/2023 at 9:07 PM, TurboTapin said:

I had some time so I figured I'd document this, as information out there is very piecemeal and scattered. There's 2 methods of doing this conversion. First method is using an adapter flywheel with original bell housing and second is using regular RB flywheel with milled down bell housing. This will document the second method.

I find there's a lot more pro's then con's with the milled bellhousing method for the following reasons.

1. You're not stuck with a specific flywheel made by only one company. You can use any regular RB flywheel.

2. You cannot purchase an off the shelf twin plate clutch due to flywheel limitations.

3. Adapter flywheels are a fair bit longer. I dislike the idea of adding weight further from the crank and main bearing. 

4. Shifter sits a lot closer to original location. 

5. You can avoid having to deal with dumpster fire companies like Collins Adapters. 

 

Lets start. First step, purchase a CD00A transmission from your local dealer. If memory serves me right, I paid 2600$CDN in July 2022. 

image.thumb.jpeg.2fc5e2fe7b5d9090348de9ce279980d4.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.df5b1ddb00a6f4354517bf71c5e92c24.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.d62dba0d0687019baca53fa0dbccbaab.jpeg

Remove the bits you wont need as you'll need a different shifter kit. 

image.thumb.jpeg.dec02656365901b2f0e3688dbdc3d655.jpeg

Next we'll need to remove the bell housing to have to milled down.

Remove the front cover bolts and front cover. Remove the circlip and bearing (Not pictured). Lastly, remove the hidden bolt under the shift linkage cover. This process is well documented in many Youtube videos so I won't delve more into it. Bell housing will come off with some love from a rubber mallet afterwards.

image.thumb.jpeg.91e834c7a0a9176d65422ed8310de5e2.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.3d3cbb6ecd6587c1c750085aa493434b.jpeg

Once removed, drop it off at your local machine shop to have them mill it down 15mm. Before and after picture below.

image.thumb.jpeg.c4b0a3aa67a7432befdfeca729e6b51d.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.4b06c1d7100f66c850913c70fbcf2e52.jpeg

The starter on an RB does not sit in the same location on the CD009 transmission so the bellhousing needs to be massaged a tad to fit. Some just notch it out completely, but I find it a hack job. I removed just enough meat for it to fit.

image.thumb.jpeg.2887841c9632b001b9db35e4bf2b7ff8.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.a8069dcee4f82e1b6576b54f0ac98602.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.af12b0b272cf12eabadcc4e4b0557a05.jpeg

I also recut a drain path for oil/water in the original location. 

image.thumb.jpeg.3e4ea34f8f3cdfd5486927ceb0dd414b.jpeg

Next was to reinstall the bell housing and my shifter kit. I went with the SerialNine CD999 Technical shifter. From my findings, it's the closest to sit in the factory location.

image.thumb.jpeg.a73d83c6060111200921ee0e44c1bf27.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.56c4d03d69022418b8869deac5e2c6d7.jpeg

Lastly for the transmission, you'll need to measure which release bearing will fit. X-Clutch (Australian Clutch Services) has a nice TSB documenting how to measure it.

TSB-203.pdf 539.11 kB · 3 downloads image.thumb.png.b5ec4de34e0b0e8d3d7001e0b0b3057d.png

I required a 32mm release bearing with an X-Clutch twin disk. Expect much longer with a single plate clutch. Here's a list of Nissan release bearing lengths and part numbers. If you require more, Collins does sell a 42mm release bearing.

Part number-------------Size

30501-A3800------------12 mm
30501-N1600------------14 mm
30501-U200-------------16 mm
30501-S0200------------18 mm
30501 -B6000-----------20 mm
30501-S0160------------22 mm
30501-K0401------------24 mm
30501-K0510------------26 mm
30501-N1600------------28 mm
30501-N8400------------30 mm
30501-U8500------------32 mm

With the transmission ready, I got to work on the car. Install your adapter plate of choice on the engine. I went with a Collins adapter, but knowing what I know why; I would avoid them like the plague. As the CD009 transmission is a lot bulkier, you will also need to enlarge two areas in the transmission tunnel for it to fit. First, the area where the bellhousing and adapter plate meet (Not pictured) and second, where the tunnel narrows down for the transmission mount. This took a fair bit of work with an air hammer and back and forth with the transmission in place. It's very tight but it fits.

image.thumb.jpeg.9456bb1b6db71cdf2ddc1cc643829fff.jpeg

Next up, is to finally get the transmission installed. It was a must for me to have to drop my motor a tad lower by loosening the 4x subframe nuts. Be careful with this as you don't want your motor and subframe to drop to the ground. Just before fabbing a mount, you'll need to measure and adjust your transmission angle in comparison with your differential. You're looking for equal and opposite. As my diff flange sat 2 degree's up, I adjusted the motor/transmission angle to be 2 degree's down. 

image.thumb.png.566b7f82ebf565f33007ba0d6aa59426.png

I fabbed up a mount bracket with 2" flat bar and a GKTech RB trans rubber mount. The RB and CD009 mount holes are identical and it bolts right up.

image.thumb.jpeg.c8d2b32a141da9a497f67a56341b8d5a.jpeg

Lastly I had to trim the shifter hole a tad. The shifter sits in the original location, but still required trimming for the base. I made another plate to cover it and then covered it with sound deadening. 

image.thumb.jpeg.c1fadb67ef97ddae1fc3e0a4a0fe9d01.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.283c246bab91fcc65088a81ec8dcdc32.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.27e531606d71c79f1e7a56ecad2ae04b.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.3e15fd0081217f4c637b0e27feccd3fa.jpeg

And that should wrap it up. Now, sit back and enjoy your 6 speed that should in theory support 1000hp! One last thing I wanted to add is that the CD009 is not a great match for the 4.1-4.3 final drives you find on most skylines. I went ahead and popped in a speedtek 3.3 final drive, but I did drive it with a 4.3 for a short period of time. 1st-4th gears were useless and I'd cruise around 50kmh in 5th gear. 

 

 

 

 

 

I am currently going this route. I am curious how much horse power you put behind the cut bell housing? Collins was telling me I am going to crack it and bluh bluh bluh. Because I didn’t buy the custom fly wheel from him. I am looking for somewhere around like 500 hp

12 hours ago, Nightmare_mistress_R33 said:

I am currently going this route. I am curious how much horse power you put behind the cut bell housing? Collins was telling me I am going to crack it and bluh bluh bluh. Because I didn’t buy the custom fly wheel from him. I am looking for somewhere around like 500 hp

That's the most absurd thing I've ever heard. I would go cut bellhousing over that monstrosity of a flywheel all day, every day. It puts a lot more mass further from the last main bearing.

I've had nothing but problems with Collins in the past and refuse to ever buy their products again. I would not trust anything they tell you. He's playing his salesman card. 

I'm currently at 640whp on a mustang dyno (~770bhp) with the intentions of running E85 and a lot more power this upcoming spring.

Cheers, 

Edited by TurboTapin

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    • Major thread necro but how bad of a job is it to DIY? Looking at it online it looks like if you reuse your ring and pinion as long as those are in good condition it should be fine to just pull the axles/front cover and replace the diff that way? Or should I be replacing everything and doing preload measurements/gear mesh testing like the factory service manual mentions for the rear diff?
    • in my list I had the R33 GTR as the best Skyline. Infact I had all GTR's (33>34=32), the NSX, the GTO, the 300ZX, the 180SX, the S15 better than the FD RX7. I had the MR2 and the A80 as 'just' better. I also think the DC5R Integra looks better but this is an 01 onwards car. I also think the FC>FD. It's almost like aesthetics are individual! The elements @GTSBoy likes about the FD and dislikes about the 180 are inverse in my eyes. I hate the rear end of the FD and it's weird tail lights that are bulbous and remind me of early hyundai excels. They are not striking, nor iconic, nor retro cool. The GTO has supercar proportions. I maintain these look much better in person (like the NSX) especially with nice wheels and suspension which is mandatory for all cars pretty much. Some (or all) of these you have to see in person to appreciate. You can't write a car off until you see one in the flesh IMO. Like most people we probably just like/dislike cars which represent certain eras of design or design styles in general. I also think the 60's Jag E type looks HORRIBLE, literally disgusting, and the 2000GT is nothing to write home about. FWIW I don't think the Dodge Viper Gen1's have aged very well either. You can probably see where I rate bubbly coupes like the FD. I know we're straying now but the C4 and C5 absolutely murder the Viper in the looks department as time goes on, for my eyes. Wouldn't surprise me if people who love the FD, also love the MX5, Dodge Viper, Jag E Type, etc etc.
    • I used to hate R31s, and any of the other Nissans that led up to it, and any of the Toyotas with similar styling, because of the boxiness. They were, and remain, childish, simplistic, and generally awful. I appreciate R31s a lot more now, but only the JDM 2 door. The ADM 4 door (and any other 4 door, even if they are unique compared to our local one) can eat a bowl of dicks. The Aussie R31 is also forever tarnished by their association with stereotypical bong clutching Aussie R31 owners of the 90s and early 2000s. I think the Nissans of the 70s (other than 120Y/180B/200B) are far superior looking to the 80s cars. The 240K era Skylines are boss. The same is broadly true of Toyotas. Hondas don't ever register in my thinking, from any era. Mitsus are all horrid shitboxen in any era, and so also don't register. Subarus are always awful, ditto. Daihatsus and Suzukis also don't generally register. They are all invisible. I think the SW20 MR2 looks fiddly. The 3000GT/GTO is like that but way worse. Too many silly plastic barnacles and fiddly gimmicks ruined what could have been a really nice base shape. Kinda-sorta looks like a big heavy ST165 Celica coupe (and I'm not sure if that's a good thing or a bad thing). I think the 180SX is dreadfully bland. It's not bad looking. But it has no excitement to it at all. It's just a liftback coupe thing with no interest in its lines, and bad graphical elements (ie wide expanses of taillight plastic on the rear garnish). The S13 Silvia is a little better - getting closer to R32 shapes. But still....bland. S14? Nope. Don't love it. S15...a little better. Probably a lot better, actually. Benefits from not being like a shrunk in the wash R34 (where the S13 was a shrunk in the wash R32 and the S14 looked like a Pulsar or something else from the stable on Nissan mid 90s horrors). The Z32 was hot as f**k when it came out but hasn't aged as well as the A80. Keep in mind that I think the R33 is the most disgusting looking thing - and out of all the previous cars mentioned is objectively closest to my precious R32. It's just....real bad, almost everywhere you look. And that is down to the majority of what was designed in the 90s being shit. All Nissans from that era look like shit. Most other brands ditto. In that context, the FD absolutely stands out as being by far the best looking car, for reasons already discussed. Going behind the aesthetics, the suspension alone makes it better than almost any other car.  
    • If they just called it the "Mazda Tiffany", it would have been spot on.
    • Yup but for me its the HR ! Cut my teeth on the old holden 6s in the day ! And here's me thinking in the day it was also the 300ZX and the Mitsubishi GT3000 ! All, as well had good lines, but always seemed to need finishing off, style wise.
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