Jump to content
SAU Community

GTST R32 M SPEC - What front lip is this?

kenjishi
 Share

Recommended Posts

kenjishi Newbie

kenjishi

Posted
Posted

Hi all!

I've been searching high and low trying to figure out what front lip this is. From my research so far, I've found that the lip could potentially be from a Honda Integra (DC2 or earlier) but cannot find anything that looks to be the same. I'm wanting to achieve the same look without having to opt for a GTR front lip.

Whatever front lip it is, I think it gives the perfect OEM+ look with the M-Spec skirts and rear.

Any thoughts would help! Trying to figure out what it is!

IMG_0997.jpeg

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

It's not really a lip. It might or might not be detachable, but it is definitely "with" that front bar, which is anything but stock. So I would not expect that lip to necessarily attach to the stock bar (neither the GTSt or GTR bars).

I would also suggest that it is not Integra. Integras are not as wide as R32s.

The lip itself appears to be inspired by the standard GTR lip or some of the slightly larger aftermarket ones like Garage Saurus, just with the openings deleted. Has similar overall shape. It's like the lip opening has been moved up into the main bar, so you still have it but the lip is cleaner. I think that makes the bar probably deeper, so the lip ends up close to the road without being a massive piece of plastic in its own right. But that car is also stupidly low and stupidly stanced out, so the proximity to the road could be an illusion.

Either way - I don't think you'll likely make the lip work on its own, if you can work out what it is.

kenjishi Newbie

kenjishi

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 4/14/2023 at 12:04 PM, GTSBoy said:

It's not really a lip. It might or might not be detachable, but it is definitely "with" that front bar, which is anything but stock. So I would not expect that lip to necessarily attach to the stock bar (neither the GTSt or GTR bars).

I would also suggest that it is not Integra. Integras are not as wide as R32s.

The lip itself appears to be inspired by the standard GTR lip or some of the slightly larger aftermarket ones like Garage Saurus, just with the openings deleted. Has similar overall shape. It's like the lip opening has been moved up into the main bar, so you still have it but the lip is cleaner. I think that makes the bar probably deeper, so the lip ends up close to the road without being a massive piece of plastic in its own right. But that car is also stupidly low and stupidly stanced out, so the proximity to the road could be an illusion.

Either way - I don't think you'll likely make the lip work on its own, if you can work out what it is.

Thanks! I've got no idea regardless. Just heard from some people that it may have been an earlier gen Honda front lip that has been modified for the Type M front bumper. Still shopping around and would like to try something else other than doing a GTR front lip install.

  • 1 year later...
  • 3 months later...
kenjishi Newbie

kenjishi

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 5/28/2024 at 1:00 AM, D.phantom said:

Yes the dc2 type r lip fits the type m front bar. I have it on my type m front atm

IMG_2829.jpeg

IMG_2731.jpeg

Sick! This is exactly what I was looking to achieve. How'd you go about installing it? What modifications we're required?

D.phantom Newbie

D.phantom

Posted
Posted (edited)
14 minutes ago, kenjishi said:

Sick! This is exactly what I was looking to achieve. How'd you go about installing it? What modifications we're required?

This is a dc2r lip

No modifications required. Installation is fairly easy but you have to screw the middle for it to sit where you want it

 

https://www.ausbodyworks.com.au/products/silvia-s15-dc2r-front-bumper-lip Is the website I bought it from

Edited by D.phantom
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Meanwhile, 20+ years ago, I pulled out the 105mm hole saw and went straight down through the inner guard in front of the airbox to get my stormwater pipe cold air intake in. Right behind the two stock holes for the intercooler pipes. Those have no reinforcement (apart from a couple of robust pieces of steel pipe through them!). I feel that the Australian vehicle standards crews put way too much emphasis on "maintaining the crash performance" of cars and not enough consideration of "any crash is a new and wonderful experiment with a random selection of parameters and you will never be able to tell if an extra 80mm hole through some sheet metal caused a significant difference...but if you close your eyes and squint at the whole structure, engage your engineering brain and have a good think about it, you'd have to expect that it would do jack all."
    • Shoota_77
      Car Rotisserie

      By Shoota_77 · Posted

      You guys are focussing on the wrong part of this post and have headed off on an irrelevant tangent!  Clearly I'm not going to put my most prized physical possession (well it will be once I'm finished it...) on a piece of shit contraption that might fail and crush me or my car!  At no point was that even implied I was trying to buy a butchered P.O.S that some shonky clown had thrown together with a gasless MIG....  Either way I would love to see the build quality of a rotisserie that has failed.  Actually I'd love to see a photo of one that has failed full stop.  Google fails to deliver.  Never happened?? I'll either make one that won't fail or will buy one that wouldn't fail! End Post.....
    • GTSBoy
      Car Rotisserie

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, if you can't breathe for more than about 2 minutes, you're cooked.
    • GTSBoy
      Troubleshooting - motor wont turn over

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, all the power should be getting dissipated across the starter motor. Therefore, ideally, the voltage drop across the earth lead should be convincingly close to zero. Certainly you'd want it to be only a volt or so at max, because otherwise that volt doesn't turn up at the starter to do what is required. A car can probably survive a bad enough earth to crank and start with only 9V or so at the starter motor, maybe even a bit less. But you're seeing only 8V at the battery terminals when cranking, so there can't even be that much available over at the starter, which simply won't do. I would have thought that you couldn't pull enough current (with a healthy starter) to make the battery drop to 8V locally. But I was ignoring the possibility that the starter is in fact crook. If it has shorted windings (or maybe the solenoid is borked and shorting to earth) then I guess it could pull a stack of current and not even look like wanting to turn over. So follow the other boys' reccos too. Because they are just as likely at this point.  
    • MBS206
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Depending where the whole gets drilled, and what country/state you're talking about, quite likely not.   Under ole vehicle mod rules in NSW, VSI06 allowed for drilling of holes in "non structural" areas. So you could drill a hole through the inner guard, and not need engineering. You couldn't drill over seams, and it was advised to add extra reinforcing around the hole, as well as something to protect from sharp edges.   Again, it's all about finding the documentation for where the mod is to be done, AND then being able to explain the situation, with the documentation as to why you don't need engineering, with a positive attitude, to any one of the likes eg, police, vehicle inspector, etc.
×
×
  • Create New...