Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All,

Currently getting a radiator w/ shroud and 16" brushless fan fab'd up. I will be using the sensor to switch on the fan. I will be using a stock thermostat(76.9c) with a 175-195f sensor switch.

I planned on getting the sensor thread bung welded to the lower half of the radiator near the outlet hose (mimicking the AC fan stock sensor switch location)

However, I've read much on that the switch needs to be mounted near the hottest point which would be near the upper hose.

Some of what I've read also states that it needs to be close to the thermostat. Most of that info is non-RB specific as some motors thermostat is located on the upper hose pipe.

Should the switch be close to the coolant temp sensor for thermostat??

Whats optimal when it comes to a RB?

Personally I would use your ECU to control the fan, the OEM water temp sensor on the outlet from the plenum would be the best spot to sample water temperature.

If you use a SSR or an OEM fan controller (from another car)you could even duty cycle your fan so it gently ramps in as water temperature increases and say goes from 30% duty at 75°C and to 100% by 85°C as an example. Far more sophisticated and superior than an on/off thermo switch.

Makes everything a bit more premium.

 

  • Like 1
3 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Personally I would use your ECU to control the fan, the OEM water temp sensor on the outlet from the plenum would be the best spot to sample water temperature.

If you use a SSR or an OEM fan controller (from another car)you could even duty cycle your fan so it gently ramps in as water temperature increases and say goes from 30% duty at 75°C and to 100% by 85°C as an example. Far more sophisticated and superior than an on/off thermo switch.

Makes everything a bit more premium.

 

I thought about just doing the ECU route. With the Spal Brushless tech, the fan is basically variable speed on its own with the switch (low speed @175F /max @195F).

I also thought about getting one of the radiator hose sensor provisions to mount the switch, since it seems the upper is deemed the most optimal location.

 

 

 

  • Like 1

Nice!

If that's the case, just install that sensor on plenum outlet. 

You're sampling water that is being expelled out from the motor, you would assume it's the best location.

  • Like 1
6 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Nice!

If that's the case, just install that sensor on plenum outlet. 

You're sampling water that is being expelled out from the motor, you would assume it's the best location.

Thanks!

The sensor is 3/8 so i may not exactly get it on the plenum but its def going up top! I just found one of those hose adapter in 3/8 on the ebay.

I'll just plug the bung that they welded on the bottom and delete the OEM harness for the than AC fan sensor switch. The new fan is gonna do the job.

  • Like 1

If it were me, I'd just build a controller on an Arduino. Fit it with a little trim pot or two, put it in a sealed box, and use the sensor location in the rad tank. The trim pots would allow the on and off points to be adjusted, rather than relying on hard switching points. The logic in the controller could be as sophisticated or as simple as you like. You could even have extra RTDs or TCs looking at external air T, engine bay T, etc, to inform how hard to run the fan.

I'd see it as an opportunity to experiment with programming some fuzzy logic. Might turn out to be complete overkill, but good fun.

But, if you have the capacity to run it from the ECU, almost any other option is verging on silly. No extra sensors required, all sorts of additional logic available at the twitch of a mouse, etc.

Edited by GTSBoy
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope, but they are definitely one of the default choices. Well established.
    • Has anyone used > https://performancecoating.com.au/  
    • Haha actually I did join back then under a different email address,  I couldn't re-activate my account so made a new one! I didn't post much anyway so not missing out on much. Amazing to see how the value of the cars and parts has changed over the years, also ACT section appears to be dead now. 
    • Thanks... It's in pretty good condition overall, probably due to not being drifted/tuned however being a daily driver has taken its toll. Had 100k on the clock when I got it, up to 180k now. Unfortunately it's not 100% dent free, it's got a small dent on FLH side and broken indicator from where I hit a small kangaroo at high speed. If you look at closely at pic #5 you might spot the dodgy trailer light repair my old man and I rigged up as temporary repair! - It's still there due to a combo of needing the car as daily driver and then too lazy/busy to fix properly. I've a couple of other minor accidents accidents as well but nothing major. One required a new front bar and unfortunately the smash repairer ordered the normal gtst one and not the aero bar. Needed the car back asap so just went with it, regretted ever since.
    • I can't believe that anyone is foolish enough to believe that the base maps are for any other purpose than to drive the car up onto the trailer/truck or gently creep it to the dyno. No matter how good they are, they can never be any better than the factory maps**, and only the foolish trust those on a significantly modified setup. **Yeah, yeah. I know there's also the difference between factory maps being fixed to certain injector sizes and MAP/AFM/VE relationships, and the likely aftermarket ECU base maps being better able to handle the sorts of changes that would render a stock ECU dangerous, like different sized injectors. But let's just ignore that for the moment, because the principle is still the same.  
×
×
  • Create New...