Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 short shifter issues

Prof_Finesser
 Share

Recommended Posts

Prof_Finesser Enthusiast

Prof_Finesser

Posted
Posted (edited)

I got a cube short shifter for my r32 rb20 and I tried to install it and my trans seems to be out of place when I put in the rb20 i thought it looked a bit odd but I paid no attention to it cuz I had the stock shifter. Is there a way to move the trans/engine back if I remember correctly when I was doing the swap the bolt holes seem to be just the right size so it wouldn't. In the cube shifter kit it has a that plate and it won't sit right.  I know my car manual swapped not sure if that has to do anything with it.  Not sure what cross member I have.

image.jpeg

IMG_2761.jpg

Edited by Prof_Finesser
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484643-r32-short-shifter-issues/
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
44 minutes ago, Prof_Finesser said:

I know my car manual swapped not sure if that has to do anything with it.

And there's the reason. The shifter hole is further back in the autos.

No, there is nothing you can do to move the driveline backwards. It's not necessary. Every manual swapped R32 has the same thing. It just stresses the rubber boot a bit when you cover it all back up.

Prof_Finesser Enthusiast

Prof_Finesser

Posted
  • Author
Posted
4 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

And there's the reason. The shifter hole is further back in the autos.

No, there is nothing you can do to move the driveline backwards. It's not necessary. Every manual swapped R32 has the same thing. It just stresses the rubber boot a bit when you cover it all back up.

well thx for the info gonna start cutting and make it look nice as i can

 

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted
10 hours ago, Prof_Finesser said:

well thx for the info gonna start cutting and make it look nice as i can

 

If you want to make it look as nice as you can, find a wrecked manual.

That hole in the tunnel, is a panel, you should be able to remove the spot welds, remove the seam sealer, pop that panel out.

 

Take the one from the manual, and swap it over.

It will be a tedious process to get the manual one out cleanly, but its doable.

Prof_Finesser Enthusiast

Prof_Finesser

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 5/2/2023 at 6:16 AM, GTSBoy said:

I wouldn't bother. It's all hidden under the boots anyway. I certainly only worried about for about as long as it took to verify that it all went back together without any banging and knocking and looked and worked fine.

yea im in the states so finding a wrecked one is kinda hard

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R34 gtt rb25det neo timing belt kit

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nissan/Pitwork is fine stuff. HKS is just marketing wank. I personally wouldn't do the idler if it is already new. If it looks and feels fine, it is fine. But as D says - it's cheap to add it to the job. The water pump ditto. Even more so. If it show no signs of problems, then it is nearly new - leave it.
    • Duncan
      R34 gtt rb25det neo timing belt kit

      By Duncan · Posted

      1. I can't see a location on your profile but you do mention GBP so I'll assume you are in UK. In Australia, CBC make a timing belt kit with the gears and idler and tension bearing and that is what I use without any problems. I'm sure OEM or HKS are also fine but I wouldn't pay extra for HKS over anything else. 2. Yes, I would always change the idler and tensioner and the stud and bolt that hold them in. Assuming they were all done last time it is highly unlikely you would have a problem, but they are very cheap to add to the job considering the time it will take anyway.  3. No, you don't need to lock them as such (I think that is more for engines without timing marks), but you should make sure they move as little as possible once the belt is off as you can hit pistons on valves if they move too far. As always, make sure you line it all up to top dead centre with the timing marks aligned before you take the old belt off.
    • The Bogan
      Boxes of oil?

      By The Bogan · Posted

    • MBS206
      Boxes of oil?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      How to wreak havoc at a bogans party... Swap out the goon bag hanging from the clothes line with oil bag... Watch chaos ensue during Goon of Fortune....
    • drifter17a
      R34 gtt rb25det neo timing belt kit

      By drifter17a · Posted

      Hey everyone,   I’m looking for some advice on replacing the timing belt on my RB25DET Neo-powered 1998 Skyline. The engine was fully built about five years ago, including a fresh timing belt, water pump, and other essentials. However, since then, the car has only covered around 2,000–3,000 miles. It’s currently making around 650hp.   Even though the mileage is low, I know timing belts have a time-based lifespan too, and most recommendations suggest changing them every five to six years or 50,000 miles. Since I’m at that time mark, I’d rather not take any risks and plan to swap it out soon.   A few things I’d like to hear opinions on: 1. What’s the best belt for this setup? Should I go with an OEM Nissan belt, or is the HKS fine-tune a better choice given the power level? 2. Would you bother replacing the idler pulley and tensioner at the same time, or only if they show wear? 3. When swapping the belt, is it necessary to lock the cam and crank gears in place, or is lining up the timing marks enough? I’ve seen different approaches, and I want to make sure I do it right.   The water pump was changed with the rebuild and isn’t run off the timing belt, so I don’t see a need to replace it again. I just want to make sure I approach this the right way.   Any insight would be much appreciated. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...