Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 short shifter issues

Prof_Finesser
 Share

Recommended Posts

Prof_Finesser Enthusiast

Prof_Finesser

Posted
Posted (edited)

I got a cube short shifter for my r32 rb20 and I tried to install it and my trans seems to be out of place when I put in the rb20 i thought it looked a bit odd but I paid no attention to it cuz I had the stock shifter. Is there a way to move the trans/engine back if I remember correctly when I was doing the swap the bolt holes seem to be just the right size so it wouldn't. In the cube shifter kit it has a that plate and it won't sit right.  I know my car manual swapped not sure if that has to do anything with it.  Not sure what cross member I have.

image.jpeg

IMG_2761.jpg

Edited by Prof_Finesser
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484643-r32-short-shifter-issues/
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
44 minutes ago, Prof_Finesser said:

I know my car manual swapped not sure if that has to do anything with it.

And there's the reason. The shifter hole is further back in the autos.

No, there is nothing you can do to move the driveline backwards. It's not necessary. Every manual swapped R32 has the same thing. It just stresses the rubber boot a bit when you cover it all back up.

Prof_Finesser Enthusiast

Prof_Finesser

Posted
  • Author
Posted
4 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

And there's the reason. The shifter hole is further back in the autos.

No, there is nothing you can do to move the driveline backwards. It's not necessary. Every manual swapped R32 has the same thing. It just stresses the rubber boot a bit when you cover it all back up.

well thx for the info gonna start cutting and make it look nice as i can

 

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted
10 hours ago, Prof_Finesser said:

well thx for the info gonna start cutting and make it look nice as i can

 

If you want to make it look as nice as you can, find a wrecked manual.

That hole in the tunnel, is a panel, you should be able to remove the spot welds, remove the seam sealer, pop that panel out.

 

Take the one from the manual, and swap it over.

It will be a tedious process to get the manual one out cleanly, but its doable.

Prof_Finesser Enthusiast

Prof_Finesser

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 5/2/2023 at 6:16 AM, GTSBoy said:

I wouldn't bother. It's all hidden under the boots anyway. I certainly only worried about for about as long as it took to verify that it all went back together without any banging and knocking and looked and worked fine.

yea im in the states so finding a wrecked one is kinda hard

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OakvilleGTR
      Turn signal wiring question

      By OakvilleGTR · Posted

      Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • sonicii
      Lower A arm Skyline v35

      By sonicii · Posted

      The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Red Sky II
      Looking for autoelectrician in Perth who can do the OEM to double din stereo upgrade.

      By Red Sky II · Posted

      Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...