Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  On 10/05/2023 at 2:44 AM, JayJay777 said:

damn that insane

Expand  

Just proves you don't need a fancy intake plenum.

Current iteration I'm running a FFP, kind of a "might as well" moment because needed to fit DBW and delete all the garbage idle control leak valves and other useless crap.

  • Like 1
  On 10/05/2023 at 3:05 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Just proves you don't need a fancy intake plenum.

Current iteration I'm running a FFP, kind of a "might as well" moment because needed to fit DBW and delete all the garbage idle control leak valves and other useless crap.

Expand  

the way im thinking about it is that if I get one now i wont have to get one later, another thing as well. to the dismay of someone else on this thread, i like the ffp because they look better, and because this is going to be a show car as well as hopefully a little beast, i wanna be able to open the bonnet and have it look nice and clean.

Assuming the ECU can control boost, all you need is a MAC valve, wiring and vacuum line plumbing.

For ECU, that's kind of like talking religion, politics or whether pineapple belongs on pizza. Anything except the standard, untuned ECU can work, in cost order

Nistune + z32 AFM + Boost controller

PowerFC + z32 AFM + Boost controller 

Link, Haltech basic models, they can run MAP and control boost so you just need the MAC valve) + wide band o2

Then a whole world of pain up to Motec

Price range for the hardware approx $1k-$5k

  • Like 1
  On 10/05/2023 at 2:35 AM, JayJay777 said:

now im confused, youve said in the first part that a top mount and ffp isnt necessary however in your second youre saying theyre for performance? which one is it?

Expand  

They are not performance mods, unless you need the performance that they are suited to, which is in the order of double what you are asking for. In your context, they are 100% cosmetic, and actually carry a performance penalty, in the case of the FFP.

As far as I am concerned a show car does not have to have any actual performance. If its purpose is to look pretty with the bonnet up, it does not even have to run. If you want a good performance car, then the things that make it pretty with the bonnet up are not necessary and can be counterproductive.

You do you. But a highmount and an FFP are not even remotely required. I'd rather spend the money on brakes, suspension and tyres than bling to make the guys with shaved heads want to blow you.

  • Like 1
  On 10/05/2023 at 3:13 AM, Duncan said:

Assuming the ECU can control boost, all you need is a MAC valve, wiring and vacuum line plumbing.

For ECU, that's kind of like talking religion, politics or whether pineapple belongs on pizza. Anything except the standard, untuned ECU can work, in cost order

Nistune + z32 AFM + Boost controller

PowerFC + z32 AFM + Boost controller 

Link, Haltech basic models, they can run MAP and control boost so you just need the MAC valve) + wide band o2

Then a whole world of pain up to Motec

Price range for the hardware approx $1k-$5k

Expand  

yeah i had a look at a link ecu.. the one i want is just shy of 3k... which is pretty insane considering ive only ever owned sh*tboxes haha. but yeah ive begun making a list and so far its gonna cost around... 6k, but thats missing out on a lot of the plumbing, tuning and electrical labour i cant quite do myself. also planning on adding a few extra like a crank/cam trigger kit, some adjustable cam gears and the crank shaft extender thing (ive blanked on what its called, pretty much extends the crank and adds more splines) althought i do save money because the engine has already had some good head studs installed as well as fixed the oiling issue, so hopefully no spun bearings for me.

 

  On 10/05/2023 at 3:13 AM, Duncan said:

Nistune + z32 AFM + Boost controller

Expand  

Not really an option without buying another (R32) ECU, unless it's an S2 C34 (and hence Neo engine). Best avvoided iin favour of the other options. Disclaimer, I have Nistune, so it's not as if I don't think it's a good thing. Just not as appropriate here, probably.

  • Like 1

I run a link in my stagea too, it does a good job

And, welcome to the slippery slope.  If you want to stay in a budget, a highflow in the stock location, with stock intake and routing, nistune, injectors will get to to around that power at about 1/3 of the price.

  On 10/05/2023 at 3:27 AM, GTSBoy said:

They are not performance mods, unless you need the performance that they are suited to, which is in the order of double what you are asking for. In your context, they are 100% cosmetic, and actually carry a performance penalty, in the case of the FFP.

As far as I am concerned a show car does not have to have any actual performance. If its purpose is to look pretty with the bonnet up, it does not even have to run. If you want a good performance car, then the things that make it pretty with the bonnet up are not necessary and can be counterproductive.

You do you. But a highmount and an FFP are not even remotely required. I'd rather spend the money on brakes, suspension and tyres than bling to make the guys with shaved heads want to blow you.

Expand  

 

well like i said, 350 is what i consider a reasonable ball park and if i can use these parts to make more then ill make sure theyre not just cosmetic at all.

  On 10/05/2023 at 3:29 AM, JayJay777 said:

yeah i had a look at a link ecu.. the one i want is just shy of 3k... which is pretty insane considering ive only ever owned sh*tboxes haha. but yeah ive begun making a list and so far its gonna cost around... 6k, but thats missing out on a lot of the plumbing, tuning and electrical labour i cant quite do myself. also planning on adding a few extra like a crank/cam trigger kit, some adjustable cam gears and the crank shaft extender thing (ive blanked on what its called, pretty much extends the crank and adds more splines) althought i do save money because the engine has already had some good head studs installed as well as fixed the oiling issue, so hopefully no spun bearings for me.

 

Expand  

The crank collar is an engine out job, is the engine currently in the bay?

What are your thoughts on aiming for around 450kw? It will still be quite responsive and the high mount turbo and all the other parts will then make sense. The funny thing is, what you are describing to build vs a 450kw setup will be very similar in price. 

  On 10/05/2023 at 3:31 AM, Duncan said:

I run a link in my stagea too, it does a good job

And, welcome to the slippery slope.  If you want to stay in a budget, a highflow in the stock location, with stock intake and routing, nistune, injectors will get to to around that power at about 1/3 of the price.

Expand  

yeahhh ive found that one out haha.

currently that list is comprised of

front mount intercooler (aeroflow)

link ecu (G4x Xtremex)

gated manifold and screamer pipe (hypergear)

electronic boost gauge (gfb)

high flow mod for my current turbo (hypergear)

front facing plenum

so defintely missing a heap of stuff but thats just what i have so far.

with what i have do you think i should be aiming for more power? cause 350 is just my ballpark, but if i can gain more without rebuilding the engine i will.

  On 10/05/2023 at 3:35 AM, Murray_Calavera said:

The crank collar is an engine out job, is the engine currently in the bay?

What are your thoughts on aiming for around 450kw? It will still be quite responsive and the high mount turbo and all the other parts will then make sense. The funny thing is, what you are describing to build vs a 450kw setup will be very similar in price. 

Expand  

yeah engine is currently in the bay, but if i have to take it out i will. in my mind, an engine out to increase the longevity of the engine is worth the time.

and im not sure if youre keeping up with GTS boy, but im not opposed to spending a fair bit on this car. i opened this forum with an idea of what i could do in mind and it seems what i want to do is overcompensating a bit haha, im not opposed to aiming for way more at all, 450kw is mad! just dont want to be one of those guys who wants to get 1000hp on his first go sort of thing, but it appears i have undershot it and i guess now i look like i have no clue. but if its a few k more for the 450kw then thats fine by me.

  On 10/05/2023 at 3:38 AM, GTSBoy said:

Tell him the price son. Any number with 4 zeros is not going to be what he wants to hear. Having a 2 or a 3 as the first digit will be the end of it.

Expand  

only if the 2 or the 3 is followed by 4 zeros themselves, im not looking to spend 20 to 30k but im more than happy to spend under that. not quite sure where you got the idea of me not wanting to spend money on but you need to take a chill pill champ

  On 10/05/2023 at 3:49 AM, JayJay777 said:

only if the 2 or the 3 is followed by 4 zeros themselves, im not looking to spend 20 to 30k but im more than happy to spend under that. not quite sure where you got the idea of me not wanting to spend money on but you need to take a chill pill champ

Expand  

Are you happy to spend 20k on this build? 

It sounds like you'll be doing the mechanical work yourself and paying for any wiring and tuning involved? Is that correct?

  • Like 1

Obviously it’s all your choice, so if you want to be able to lift the bonnet and see obvious performance parts, then go for it and spend the many moneys to look the part. Otherwise, there’s some real good advice here to do things properly utilising as many stock parts as possible (note the stock manifolds will always be better than cheap Chinese knock off ones).

I personally went a hypergear turbo in the stock turbo location and a Greddy front facing plenum for 300ish kw. I’m still spending thousands on fab work, so nothing is really cheap haha. Note than when using stock location items, you can generally get quality off the shelf kits for exhaust, intake and cooler piping, so minimal fab work will be required..

  On 10/05/2023 at 3:55 AM, Murray_Calavera said:

Are you happy to spend 20k on this build? 

It sounds like you'll be doing the mechanical work yourself and paying for any wiring and tuning involved? Is that correct?

Expand  

id prefer not to but i can, it would just be gradual over time.

yeah ill be doing all the mechanical work myself and i know a few auto electricians and tuners who can help me, definitely not for free but it wont cost an insane amount

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
×
×
  • Create New...