Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm going to be buying a JDM from Japan soon and found a potential importer but I noticed on a lot of these JDM cars on the intake manifold and differential there is salt oxidation, which I understand cars over seem to be more prone to rusting than here. Is salt oxidation something to worry about if it's on the frame of the vehicle or is just general rust I should look out for?

Also I heard in Japan they don't have something like we do have here for PPSR or Carfax from America, but a guy told me they do they do have it, what's the best website to do the check if it exists?

On 5/13/2023 at 10:34 PM, silviaz said:

I'm going to be buying a JDM from Japan soon and found a potential importer but I noticed on a lot of these JDM cars on the intake manifold and differential there is salt oxidation, which I understand cars over seem to be more prone to rusting than here. Is salt oxidation something to worry about if it's on the frame of the vehicle or is just general rust I should look out for?

Also I heard in Japan they don't have something like we do have here for PPSR or Carfax from America, but a guy told me they do they do have it, what's the best website to do the check if it exists?

CarVX is the nearest equivalent to Carfax in the US. White rust on aluminum parts like an intake manifold usually also means there is rust elsewhere on the chassis.

  • Like 1
5 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

CarVX is the nearest equivalent to Carfax in the US. White rust on aluminum parts like an intake manifold usually also means there is rust elsewhere on the chassis.

Thanks man, I'll use that. This is the oxidation I was mentioning, is that technically rust? Seems like there is some yellow bubbling to.

12.JPG

The pic isn't great, but I think it is the exhaust heat shield with surface rust. That is perfectly normal, it is not painted because it is too close to the exhaust for paint to survive

  • Like 1
On 16/05/2023 at 12:59 PM, silviaz said:

Thanks man, I'll use that. This is the oxidation I was mentioning, is that technically rust? Seems like there is some yellow bubbling to.

12.JPG

it's not technically rust, but it will deteriorate the shield over time. the chloride pits the metal over time. if it gets too manky you can just replace it. you can't paint it cos it gets too hot.

  • Like 1
31 minutes ago, funkymonkey said:

it's not technically rust, but it will deteriorate the shield over time. the chloride pits the metal over time. if it gets too manky you can just replace it. you can't paint it cos it gets too hot.

Oh I was referring to the white metal thing at the back looks like the differential.

1 hour ago, Duncan said:

The pic isn't great, but I think it is the exhaust heat shield with surface rust. That is perfectly normal, it is not painted because it is too close to the exhaust for paint to survive

I meant this part not the exhaust shield.

34.JPG

Yes, so that's definitely the diff cover and they will all inevitably have white oxidation on them after a few years. There can be no expectation of raw cast alloy retaining any sort of nice as cast finish on an exposed part anywhere on a car.

The question is ....is it just the usual light coating of white oxide, or is it horribly consumed and covered in little encrustations of chlorides? If the former, then the oxidation state of the alloy parts is not really any guide to how rusty the steel parts might be. But if it is horribly messed up, then the car might have spent a lot of time driving through wet slushy snow and salt, and it might have corrosion issues. The only way to know if to have a decent look.

R33s and 34s in particular have a lot of problems around the front suspension towers. R32s less so there, but they can all suffer all over the place from salt. They should have all been rescued from Japan within 5 years of being built. Anything coming out of Japan now would want to have been stored in a garage or warehouse for the last 15 years.

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Yes, so that's definitely the diff cover and they will all inevitably have white oxidation on them after a few years. There can be no expectation of raw cast alloy retaining any sort of nice as cast finish on an exposed part anywhere on a car.

The question is ....is it just the usual light coating of white oxide, or is it horribly consumed and covered in little encrustations of chlorides? If the former, then the oxidation state of the alloy parts is not really any guide to how rusty the steel parts might be. But if it is horribly messed up, then the car might have spent a lot of time driving through wet slushy snow and salt, and it might have corrosion issues. The only way to know if to have a decent look.

R33s and 34s in particular have a lot of problems around the front suspension towers. R32s less so there, but they can all suffer all over the place from salt. They should have all been rescued from Japan within 5 years of being built. Anything coming out of Japan now would want to have been stored in a garage or warehouse for the last 15 years.

Ah ok makes sense, will cost be a fair bit to inspect so hopefully turns out right.

Yeah the oxidation is usually a result of a car driving through and sitting in salted roads. Which is common in Japanese high country. Super high chance if the chlorine oxide has formed that the iron/steel parts are rotted too. Get a thorough underbody check done and look out for tell tale cover up spray paint too.

3 hours ago, funkymonkey said:

Yeah the oxidation is usually a result of a car driving through and sitting in salted roads. Which is common in Japanese high country. Super high chance if the chlorine oxide has formed that the iron/steel parts are rotted too. Get a thorough underbody check done and look out for tell tale cover up spray paint too.

Makes sense. Yeah will defs get a check, seems to be priced quite a bit less compared to others.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...