Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Afternoon all,

who else has put a LS1 into a r33 series 2?

So far mine starts, runs, fits etc BUT how did you go getting the starter motor to fit with the steering arm?

I bought the smallest starter i could find and lifted the engine mount on that side slightly but still no go.

The last option is going left hand starter kit but was seeing if there was a cheaper way first!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484696-ls1-into-a-r33/
Share on other sites

People either ditch power steering and keep the starter where it is, or go left hand starter. In my car I have power steering and went left hand starter. It's a r34 but I would wager the problem is the same.

If you get the mal wood left hand kit (which comes with a brand new starter) they will send you two spacers for your clutch actuation to account for the size of the plate.

Use both.

I used one and my clutch was never disengaging when pedal full down, which resulted in quite the explosion one day at the track. 😛

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484696-ls1-into-a-r33/#findComment-7979845
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd use any fuel safe foam....mine went in 15 years and 15 rebuilds ago, still getting reused I'd have to say I don't understand swapping to studs to fit a particular baffle unless you are having a massive blowby issue, and even if you are addressing crankcase not head breathing is probably the next step.
    • BTW, the reason I came in here to "update" this list was that the Garrett G Series II range have been released and I've updated the list with their flow details if you're curious to check how they fit with previous Garretts and other brands The G-Series II G35 990 looks like a banger...
    • Hi all, I thought I'd put one of these references in here before but it seems I haven't - not sure how many people are actually using this place still but I feel like there are guys lurking about who might find this reference useful or interesting.  A lot of the time people don't catch key details or even fully understand how compressor maps work - or don't even look at them and just go from heresay about deciding how different turbos may compare, but I've been putting together this table over the years as a quick reference to get a gauge of how certain compressors compare to cut down the time that can be wasted looking around aimlessly. * This relates purely to compressor flow, so won't necessarily reflect the outright capabilities of these turbos as the power potential also comes down to the turbine side.  If you understand this, you should be able to use this 😃 * The inducer and exducer size listed are the mm of just the compressor wheel * The values under the "psi" headings are "lb/min airflow" and reflect the maximum airflow that compressor supports before it's efficiency dips under 65%, or it reaches it's maximum speed - whichever comes first. Any questions, or requests for other turbos which the compressor map is available for then let me know 🙂
    • And what you pay for a pack of 8 bolts and nuts at Bunnings, will land me 200 of the same nuts and bolts from a fastener shop.   M12 * 1.25 IS a standard. It's not like ordering M12x1.25 and hoping the thread pitch is right. Unlike ordering an ounce, will get you 4 different amounts depending on which ounce someone takes it to be. Your issue is a supply issue.
×
×
  • Create New...