Jump to content
SAU Community

Best Brake Upgrade for Looks

waggat
 Share

Recommended Posts

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, soviet_merlin said:

Is there any downside to running bigger brakes when done right? Or is it that people cut corners when it's just for looks and it compromises on a major safety component?

Genuine question as I'm not sure where the hate comes from. Big brakes certainly look amazing.

I think it's more a practicality issue. Done wrong it can definitely be problematic, I see a lot of BBKs that are clearly track-only because they want you to remove/cut away most of the dust shield, have no dust boots on the pistons/generally a full race kind of caliper, require you to grind away significantly at what is arguably a fairly weak suspension knuckle as-is, etc. Pad knockback and wheel bearing issues on track are not unusual to hear about with these cars. Kind of questionable to spend all that money and have it be worse on the street than when you started if it's not a dedicated track toy. 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Ben C34
Ben C34
GTSBoy
GTSBoy

Full brake delete. You'll get many more admiring looks from doing that than any other upgrade.

Kinkstaah
Kinkstaah

Do what I do, which is bleed the brakes awesomely then go to the track and hit ABS a couple of times and enjoy the rest of the day with a spongey yet ....mostly effective pedal.

Posted Images

Predator1 Rising Star

Predator1

Posted
Posted

imho, aftermarket brakes to me dictate that the car has alot of power(Not all the time). I used to get heaps of guys who look twice at my brake setup at the lights, and then ask what sort of power im running.

OP - Check out Brakes Direct. I run their full kit on my car and the brakes are fkn amazing.. plus, I get no squeal at all.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
waggat Apprentice

waggat

Posted
  • Author
Posted
37 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

I think it's more a practicality issue. Done wrong it can definitely be problematic, I see a lot of BBKs that are clearly track-only because they want you to remove/cut away most of the dust shield, have no dust boots on the pistons/generally a full race kind of caliper, require you to grind away significantly at what is arguably a fairly weak suspension knuckle as-is, etc. Pad knockback and wheel bearing issues on track are not unusual to hear about with these cars. Kind of questionable to spend all that money and have it be worse on the street than when you started if it's not a dedicated track toy. 

Hi. Thanks for the informative post. I don't want to end up with any of the issues you mentioned and would like to avoid cutting etc. That is why I wanted to get peoples opinions who have made upgrades.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Well, you cannot avoid cutting or removing the dust shields if you're going to go as large as you're talking about.

And you should not even ever just once consider grinding anything off of the upright or any other part of the front suspension/steering, even for a track car. Doing it on a road car should be punishable by death (and it could happen).

Link to comment
Share on other sites
robbo_rb180 Grand Master

robbo_rb180

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Predator1 said:

imho, aftermarket brakes to me dictate that the car has alot of power(Not all the time). I used to get heaps of guys who look twice at my brake setup at the lights, and then ask what sort of power im running.

OP - Check out Brakes Direct. I run their full kit on my car and the brakes are fkn amazing.. plus, I get no squeal at all.

AVOID BRAKES DIRECT

Have stuffed around so many mates in the past 18months and hearing more stories of bad customer service. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Predator1 Rising Star

Predator1

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, robbo_rb180 said:

AVOID BRAKES DIRECT

Have stuffed around so many mates in the past 18months and hearing more stories of bad customer service. 

I WAS one of the horror stories. I had fitment issues for the front adapters. Rear was ok, just needed the dust shield to be trimmed as needed. I exchanged lengthy emails and even spoke to George and Greg over the phone. They paid for some of the work required to make my adapters fit. I also stuck bigger brake lines in the back as I'm a picky SOB, but once the brakes were fitted it worked like a charm. Didnt get time to push the brakes.. Only did a semi track day in the rain but had no issues pulling up from around 200.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
PLYNX Mentor

PLYNX

Posted
Posted (edited)

Wow ! It seems everything new is old ! I remember seeing on a early Holden Commadore that was running in the ( I think ) Repco / Redex rally with a set of front dual callipers !

Then I threw a couple of rocks at the Tyrannosaurus rex that was looking funny at me and hid in the back of my cave until it wandered off !

Edited by PLYNX
  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Yes, but on the Dunnydoor it was for a genuine brake upgrade (albeit not necessarily a good one, given the rotors were the same, I think). This GKTech stuff is for flatbrims to put a hydo handbrake on for derp sideways action.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
PLYNX Mentor

PLYNX

Posted
Posted

And on the Commadore I think I remember seeing that they welded the extra calliper mounts to the stub axels !

Balls of brass that ! Hoping that there will be no cracks in the cast iron, then taking it on a rally trial !

Link to comment
Share on other sites
TurboTapin Proficient

TurboTapin

Posted
Posted
25 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Genuine or reproduction? 

Looks like used genuine is still going for 2k+ 

I got my genuine Brembo stamped 350z track edition calipers for 265$ a pop off Amazon. Both calipers, StopTech disks and a set of Hawk HPS pads came in around 1000$. I have heard though that when ordering from Cardone it's a mix of remanufactured Brembo's and new clones. 

Cardone 19-3858 Remanufactured Import Friction Ready (Unloaded) Brake Caliper, Tools & Equipment - Amazon Canada

Link to comment
Share on other sites
TurboTapin Proficient

TurboTapin

Posted
Posted
13 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

I highlight two words that have a tenuous and troubled relationship with each other.

They're from Cardone, a very large reputable parts manufacturer/remanufacturer in the US/Canada. I have zero concerns.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
19 minutes ago, TurboTapin said:

They're from Cardone, a very large reputable parts manufacturer/remanufacturer in the US/Canada. I have zero concerns.  

Do they have no idea how much they could have sold them for?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Does anybody use the Firestryker or Element sticks?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From what I've seen and experienced first hand with those powder extinguishers, they're good to use to break a window and escape the car, and half the time then do f**k all to stop a fire. You just need much more than 1KG worth of powder. Not to mention, half the time it's an engine bay fire, and you can't easily, and do not want to completely open the bonnet, so you're left pretending to be an American Infantry... Spray and Pray baby!   And then 100% that shit is really destructive afterwards!   Realistically, those little ones at a race track might help you keep the fire from growing and give the fire marshal / truck a chance to actually get to you with their multiple large bottles.   For a road car, these days, prepare to deboard as quickly as humanly possible, and move to safety. Allow insurance to fix replace it (unless it's like a rare classic etc, then do nearly everything possible to save it!) Keep the little extinguisher with you to help protect other things around you from burning while you stand there singing "How can we sleep while our beds are burning?"   Secondly, powder extinguishers I freaking hate for indoor use, (this isn't really relevant to a car) as you will get a powder fog around you, and it can be disorientating.   When I did fire training when at BlueScope Steel, they have (had?) their own fire brigade on site. We did all the training, and at the end we were told, "If it's an indoor fire, and you need to use a powder extinguisher, we as the fire brigade would rather you just exit the building, you're more likely to get lost in the smoke and powder fog than do much help, so just GTFO" And pretty much that was what they said for most other fires too, grab extinguisher, if it's much more than paper in a bin fire, use extinguisher to get you and others out of the building to safety...   Part of me wishes when my Skyline caught alight many moons ago, I let insurance sort it out, instead of putting the fire out... part of me now says "But I've saved a classic before it was a classic!"
    • ChoppedSpots
      GReddy Injector Help!

      By ChoppedSpots · Posted

      Hi all,  I have a older model of the Greddy Front facing intake on an RB25DET NEO Head. I've bought aeroflows fuel rail and injector kit (1000cc Bosche injectors) and I'm unsure if the fitment is correct. The injector o-rings fit in the intake hole but it's not snug. I can very easily rotate the injectors even when the fuel rail is mounted. The kit also came with multiple adaptors, they dont make it any more snug and using them raises the injectors up and i cant mount the fuel rail. I hope this makes sense I've asses a few photos.    Thanks so much guys. 
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, to run the 4g aerials to the booster, I had to get access to the rear bulkhead....bit of a mission. Hot tip, don't offer to help change the rear shocks for a mate with a v37.... Remove seat base, 2 clips that slide forward to release it the it lifts straight out Fold down rear seat (pull in from boot) The side bolster of the rear seat is not connected to the middle parts that fold. To remove unbolt at the bottom bolt then push it up off the top hook Then there is a plastic surround behind the seat back, 2 pop out clips, 2 bastard clips, some swearing at it is out Pop the rear seat latch surround off Remove door surround lower trim then side trim  Remove c pillar trim - 4 clips, pull inwards not forwards Remove metal brace - 5 bolts 1 nut Then you have got to the rear strut top...what a pain!
    • GTSBoy
      PRP RB26 cast block + head prototype running

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If you really want squish back, you can have it put on the piston (at least to some extent).
    • GTSBoy
      Petition to save Wakefield Park

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Impressive. He's very very smooth.
×
×
  • Create New...