Jump to content
SAU Community

Best Brake Upgrade for Looks


Recommended Posts

On 30/05/2023 at 9:27 AM, robbo_rb180 said:

may have ABS issues and a possible hand/park brake relocation.

Literally bought evo 8 brembos 2 days ago to do the conversion using alpha omega adaptors, lines, bigger BMC etc

What abs issues can there be if I do this upgrade?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, YD34GTT said:

What abs issues can there be if I do this upgrade?

I'm assuming you're only upgrading the front?

If so, no issues.

When you bleed the brakes make sure part of your process involves going around the block and activating ABS then rebleeding again.

I find pulling up the handbrake abruptly, then slamming the brakes is enough to trigger the ABS at low/safe speeds as there's enough of a wheel speed indifference from front and rear.

I'm sure there's an easier way of cycling the pump but there's not much info on it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I'm assuming you're only upgrading the front?

If so, no issues.

When you bleed the brakes make sure part of your process involves going around the block and activating ABS then rebleeding again.

I find pulling up the handbrake abruptly, then slamming the brakes is enough to trigger the ABS at low/safe speeds as there's enough of a wheel speed indifference from front and rear.

I'm sure there's an easier way of cycling the pump but there's not much info on it.

I actually bought a full set haha so goinh fronts and back :/ will there be an issue, really don't want to get rid of ABS 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

Do what I do, which is bleed the brakes awesomely then go to the track and hit ABS a couple of times and enjoy the rest of the day with a spongey yet ....mostly effective pedal.

:/

Did you do the evo brembo conversion? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Changing your front and rear brakes is not going to cause you ABS problems

What might is if you have air in the lines, because if that air makes it into the tiny sections of the ABS module it is hard to bleed out again. There are 2 bleeders on the ABS unit that you should always bleed (last) when you do the brakes

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, YD34GTT said:

Did you do the evo brembo conversion? 

No, I am just lamenting that I do not know the way of bleeding a R34 GTT ABS system. So I... don't, and find out about it when I activate ABS 😛

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, YD34GTT said:

Literally bought evo 8 brembos 2 days ago to do the conversion using alpha omega adaptors, lines, bigger BMC etc

What abs issues can there be if I do this upgrade?

As has been said its mainly bleeding correctly. Bleed lines to caliper, Bleed at master (ensure you bench bleed before fitting)(may require another bleed at caliper) then bleed at the ABS unit. Go for a drive and rebleed calipers and ABS module. Won't have any problems if done right 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Duncan said:

Changing your front and rear brakes is not going to cause you ABS problems

What might is if you have air in the lines, because if that air makes it into the tiny sections of the ABS module it is hard to bleed out again. There are 2 bleeders on the ABS unit that you should always bleed (last) when you do the brakes

Are there bleeders on the R33/R34 ABS units? I thought it was just the R32 but maybe I haven't looked hard enough.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, waggat said:

BTW.... for an update, I went with the following:

Project Mu 4 piston calipers and 350mm rotors up front

370z Akebono calipers and 350mm rotors rear

Project mu calipers ? Nice but gg talk about $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Have you tried looking for evo brembos? You'd be surprised, I found front and Rears evo 8 brembos for 1.5k, 

Need to consider adaptors, lines, rotors pads etc 

I guess if $ isn't a problem project mu is good but be prepared to pay over 3.2k for fronts only 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, YD34GTT said:

Project mu calipers ? Nice but gg talk about $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Have you tried looking for evo brembos? You'd be surprised, I found front and Rears evo 8 brembos for 1.5k, 

Need to consider adaptors, lines, rotors pads etc 

I guess if $ isn't a problem project mu is good but be prepared to pay over 3.2k for fronts only 

Hey mate, yeah Evo Brembos were probably the main option I was considering. But my mate is selling his S15 and selling me his front Project Mu brakes (so not too expensive). Went with the Akebono rear as I can get everything except adaptors used for a good price.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 30/5/2023 at 8:49 AM, Murray_Calavera said:

R35 GTR brakes with carbon ceramic rotors look the best for sure. 

R35 brakes for sure, that’s what I went for, for functional and looks, got my set with new oem rotors and dixel pads. 380mm rear and 390mm fronts, just me mindful it will limit your wheel options 

 

CC635A14-295C-4BA5-8E4D-461F1685FC2B.jpeg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From what I've seen and experienced first hand with those powder extinguishers, they're good to use to break a window and escape the car, and half the time then do f**k all to stop a fire. You just need much more than 1KG worth of powder. Not to mention, half the time it's an engine bay fire, and you can't easily, and do not want to completely open the bonnet, so you're left pretending to be an American Infantry... Spray and Pray baby!   And then 100% that shit is really destructive afterwards!   Realistically, those little ones at a race track might help you keep the fire from growing and give the fire marshal / truck a chance to actually get to you with their multiple large bottles.   For a road car, these days, prepare to deboard as quickly as humanly possible, and move to safety. Allow insurance to fix replace it (unless it's like a rare classic etc, then do nearly everything possible to save it!) Keep the little extinguisher with you to help protect other things around you from burning while you stand there singing "How can we sleep while our beds are burning?"   Secondly, powder extinguishers I freaking hate for indoor use, (this isn't really relevant to a car) as you will get a powder fog around you, and it can be disorientating.   When I did fire training when at BlueScope Steel, they have (had?) their own fire brigade on site. We did all the training, and at the end we were told, "If it's an indoor fire, and you need to use a powder extinguisher, we as the fire brigade would rather you just exit the building, you're more likely to get lost in the smoke and powder fog than do much help, so just GTFO" And pretty much that was what they said for most other fires too, grab extinguisher, if it's much more than paper in a bin fire, use extinguisher to get you and others out of the building to safety...   Part of me wishes when my Skyline caught alight many moons ago, I let insurance sort it out, instead of putting the fire out... part of me now says "But I've saved a classic before it was a classic!"
    • Hi all,  I have a older model of the Greddy Front facing intake on an RB25DET NEO Head. I've bought aeroflows fuel rail and injector kit (1000cc Bosche injectors) and I'm unsure if the fitment is correct. The injector o-rings fit in the intake hole but it's not snug. I can very easily rotate the injectors even when the fuel rail is mounted. The kit also came with multiple adaptors, they dont make it any more snug and using them raises the injectors up and i cant mount the fuel rail. I hope this makes sense I've asses a few photos.    Thanks so much guys. 
    • So, to run the 4g aerials to the booster, I had to get access to the rear bulkhead....bit of a mission. Hot tip, don't offer to help change the rear shocks for a mate with a v37.... Remove seat base, 2 clips that slide forward to release it the it lifts straight out Fold down rear seat (pull in from boot) The side bolster of the rear seat is not connected to the middle parts that fold. To remove unbolt at the bottom bolt then push it up off the top hook Then there is a plastic surround behind the seat back, 2 pop out clips, 2 bastard clips, some swearing at it is out Pop the rear seat latch surround off Remove door surround lower trim then side trim  Remove c pillar trim - 4 clips, pull inwards not forwards Remove metal brace - 5 bolts 1 nut Then you have got to the rear strut top...what a pain!
    • If you really want squish back, you can have it put on the piston (at least to some extent).
    • Impressive. He's very very smooth.
×
×
  • Create New...