Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1 minute ago, GTSBoy said:

Can you take a photo without the potato lens on? Can you feel any features (larger than the honing marks) with your fingernail? The vertical scoring? The apparent scuffing/deposition of material in a band about 1/2-2/3 a bore diameter down the hole?

If you tap on photo it should make photo clearer, has a score mark on number 5 guessing the rings have failed, a little bit towards the top of cylinders on all but nothing extreme, and no scorch marks on the others, cheers

The third photo down looks....like to me like the cylinder had water in it and it sat for a while  That would create a rust ring.  This would have been removed when the motor was used but would have left a cavity around the bore at the water mark  where the rust ring was.

You also have a vertical scour mark, this could be a snapped/badly gapped ring or gudgeon pin/circlip issue....you won't know till you pull it apart.

  • Thanks 1
13 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

Why take the head off the hard way?

Engine is f**ked, engine out.

Mean when you get told engine is "rebuilt" "under 5000km" and you drive it round maybe 400km at most n it f**ks its bloody great, cam bearing cap had nuts snapped into the head, guess lots of shortcuts taken in a backyard with it, not really on when go to buy a car yet keep finding more things, harmonic balancer is totaled (will attach photo) mate it's awesome 👍🫠, have known all this from get go would've brought a v8 commodore

20230620_144012.jpg

Edited by A31cefiroNZ
  • Sad 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could someone post some pictures of the factory Jack , tools, spare tire and how they were in a 1998 ER34 2 door skyline originally?
    • UPDATE: Hi all!  As we are getting towards the end of this thread where I’ll showcase final dyno numbers and graph, I wanted to provide an update. Tao from HyperGear has done an amazing job building the custom divided T3 housing for the G30. Communication was flawless, price was great, and now the housing is estimated to arrive in 7-10 days! Very very pleased. I must add, if someone is looking for an affordable turbo and end up reading this thread, I would recommend HyperGear. Genuine brands are the way to go as their proven reliability, predictable performance, and there’s a plethora of information available for specs, flow, and more. This HyperGear recommendation is based on their excellent communication, dedication, and willingness to listen to their customers. I particularly liked their ability to create custom adaptations tailored to specific needs, which is a HUGE benefit over other brands. And if we consider the HyperGear provided dyno results, it adds reassurance knowing their turbos can compete against genuine brands. Next update will be after the dyno!  
    • I've previously seen people post up "dress up bolt kits" for RBs but don't remember seeing them specify the full contents. I can only really suggest you grab the verniers and start measuring, and keep in mind the cam cover and timing cover bolts are both quite specific with a wider unthreaded section where the bushes sit, that will make it hard to get aftermarket replacements which tend to be all thread (set screws) or for longer bolts a flat section with a shorter threaded section at the end
    • I believe there was a similar one posted by @duggyphresh. They were re-routing their battery positive cable in the way I am also trying to achieve. Sorry, I’m new to this forum, so was a bit late to the party by a few months and so reignited the old thread, as I wanted to know how they got on with doing it.
×
×
  • Create New...