Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone attempted to upgrade the brakes to the 370z akebono brakes? (I already have the calipers)

I know brackets are available for the z32 and s13/s14 but I'm not sure either of those would work.

If anyone has any insight, I would greatly appreciate it as I do not know much about these cars

 

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484760-s1-rs4v-brake-upgrade/
Share on other sites

Might be worth just starting with some basic measurements of the mounts and caliper height. I don't recall ever seeing the brakes swapped out before. I believe S14, R32 and Z32 all use the same mount (But I could definitely be wrong). If you can't find any other help, maybe see if you can find some measurements of these calipers to see how different an adapter would be?

Good luck, keep us updated.

I thought Z32 4 pots bolted straight on. Not sure about 370Z.

I look at rotor catalogs and compare different models.

I'm looking at upgrading my brakes at some point. Not sure what to use. I got R34 GTT rims.

I'd just bite the bullet and try one on. Can just leave the original caliper connected.

The bolt spacing for the caliper to the knuckle should be the same, but I reckon that the brick has 12mm bolts and the Akebonos have 14mm threads in them. That means you either need to the drill the holes in the knuckles or knock the inserts out of the calipers and put in some 12mm ones - which is not for the faint hearted or those without the necessary resources. If you have to ask what those resources are, guess which category you're in.

S1 stagea has the larger bolt holes in the upright, so that should be fine.

Other than potential bolt hole stuff and triming dust backing plate, I understood all S and R (and z32) are bolt on/interchangeable. It's only when they went z33 onwards that the offset was changed so that needs a specific bracket for Z33+ on R.

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

thanks for all the great info and I apologize for not replying sooner (did not get any reply notifications.

I am going with Z34 Akebono brakes on all 4 corners.

needed parts

Z32 Brake line brackets for the rear

Z32 front and rear brake pipes

Z32 brake hoses

Z32 to Akebono caliper brackets

Z34 calipers, rotors and pads

thanks to Frenchys Performance Garage for helping me out with the details!

 

Will upload pictures when I get around to installing them

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A little follow up here on the ceramic coating.  We've had storms galore here and I've done a few ks, enough to gross them up  Consensus is that they didn't get as dirty as usual, the coating definitely repelled a little of the dirt and I think they kinda snowball. They get a little dirty and then they get dirty faster which makes sense. Cleaning them regularly would allow them to protect better.  Cleaning was a breeze. I tried first to just hose them off which, unsurprisingly, did nothing. But, making the wheels wet and then just wiping them over with a used but clean microfibre cloth was all that was required. I didn't need any cleaner at all, just water and a cloth. The wheels look amazing again.
    • Gave her a nice wash today and took extra time to clean off the tree sap and tar and crap. We have a usable garage now so she'll stay cleaner longer. Took a few snaps in some nice light afterwards.   
    • OK, solid mount Z1 diff brace is in, pretty straightforward, it picks up 3 diff hat bolts and ties them to 2 support bolts on the subframe. Pretty sure someone else on here said they had reduced axle tramp with this but mine was already pretty good for smooth wheelspin, and still is....will see you this goes over time and whether I end up with a broken rear diff hat
    • Ah yes, but the part in my hand was actually painted and fitted by me! I knew any front lip was likely to be sacrificial but I've had to fix it twice already... by the time I buy a fibreglass fixing kit, sort out sandpaper blocks, buy some fibreglass filler, body bog, spend the time and effort for a 'Greg' result... a new one being $290 seems like it's the better way to go and spray that with bedliner/raptor coat and we're all pretty again.. Would have preferred it last more than a month though. Them's the breaks I suppose.
    • I find it funny that the USA is finding out all this really really weird stuff, and people from the USA are coming here treating it like gospel, yet, all the info on solving those issues is here on these forums for the last 15 odd years... Also, I know how much heat it takes to ignite the hood lining of an R33 skyline. I worked it out myself... It also took a LOT of time, and heat for it to do it... Big single, and I needed to drive the car, so retarded the timing off to "protect it". Yeah, that was a bad move for cruising on a freeway with only 15 degrees of timing on it. That was a lesson I learned around 2009. So that's over 15 odd years ago. Aligning water and oil, that's identical for any turbo engine, it's not Japanese specific. If a shop doesn't know how to make sure the core is rotated the right way, then they shouldn't be touching any turbo engine. That's not a matter of "We haven't had Skylines for that long here"...
×
×
  • Create New...