Jump to content
SAU Community

S1 RS4V BRAKE UPGRADE


Recommended Posts

Has anyone attempted to upgrade the brakes to the 370z akebono brakes? (I already have the calipers)

I know brackets are available for the z32 and s13/s14 but I'm not sure either of those would work.

If anyone has any insight, I would greatly appreciate it as I do not know much about these cars

 

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Might be worth just starting with some basic measurements of the mounts and caliper height. I don't recall ever seeing the brakes swapped out before. I believe S14, R32 and Z32 all use the same mount (But I could definitely be wrong). If you can't find any other help, maybe see if you can find some measurements of these calipers to see how different an adapter would be?

Good luck, keep us updated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought Z32 4 pots bolted straight on. Not sure about 370Z.

I look at rotor catalogs and compare different models.

I'm looking at upgrading my brakes at some point. Not sure what to use. I got R34 GTT rims.

I'd just bite the bullet and try one on. Can just leave the original caliper connected.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The bolt spacing for the caliper to the knuckle should be the same, but I reckon that the brick has 12mm bolts and the Akebonos have 14mm threads in them. That means you either need to the drill the holes in the knuckles or knock the inserts out of the calipers and put in some 12mm ones - which is not for the faint hearted or those without the necessary resources. If you have to ask what those resources are, guess which category you're in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

S1 stagea has the larger bolt holes in the upright, so that should be fine.

Other than potential bolt hole stuff and triming dust backing plate, I understood all S and R (and z32) are bolt on/interchangeable. It's only when they went z33 onwards that the offset was changed so that needs a specific bracket for Z33+ on R.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

thanks for all the great info and I apologize for not replying sooner (did not get any reply notifications.

I am going with Z34 Akebono brakes on all 4 corners.

needed parts

Z32 Brake line brackets for the rear

Z32 front and rear brake pipes

Z32 brake hoses

Z32 to Akebono caliper brackets

Z34 calipers, rotors and pads

thanks to Frenchys Performance Garage for helping me out with the details!

 

Will upload pictures when I get around to installing them

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From what I've seen and experienced first hand with those powder extinguishers, they're good to use to break a window and escape the car, and half the time then do f**k all to stop a fire. You just need much more than 1KG worth of powder. Not to mention, half the time it's an engine bay fire, and you can't easily, and do not want to completely open the bonnet, so you're left pretending to be an American Infantry... Spray and Pray baby!   And then 100% that shit is really destructive afterwards!   Realistically, those little ones at a race track might help you keep the fire from growing and give the fire marshal / truck a chance to actually get to you with their multiple large bottles.   For a road car, these days, prepare to deboard as quickly as humanly possible, and move to safety. Allow insurance to fix replace it (unless it's like a rare classic etc, then do nearly everything possible to save it!) Keep the little extinguisher with you to help protect other things around you from burning while you stand there singing "How can we sleep while our beds are burning?"   Secondly, powder extinguishers I freaking hate for indoor use, (this isn't really relevant to a car) as you will get a powder fog around you, and it can be disorientating.   When I did fire training when at BlueScope Steel, they have (had?) their own fire brigade on site. We did all the training, and at the end we were told, "If it's an indoor fire, and you need to use a powder extinguisher, we as the fire brigade would rather you just exit the building, you're more likely to get lost in the smoke and powder fog than do much help, so just GTFO" And pretty much that was what they said for most other fires too, grab extinguisher, if it's much more than paper in a bin fire, use extinguisher to get you and others out of the building to safety...   Part of me wishes when my Skyline caught alight many moons ago, I let insurance sort it out, instead of putting the fire out... part of me now says "But I've saved a classic before it was a classic!"
    • Hi all,  I have a older model of the Greddy Front facing intake on an RB25DET NEO Head. I've bought aeroflows fuel rail and injector kit (1000cc Bosche injectors) and I'm unsure if the fitment is correct. The injector o-rings fit in the intake hole but it's not snug. I can very easily rotate the injectors even when the fuel rail is mounted. The kit also came with multiple adaptors, they dont make it any more snug and using them raises the injectors up and i cant mount the fuel rail. I hope this makes sense I've asses a few photos.    Thanks so much guys. 
    • So, to run the 4g aerials to the booster, I had to get access to the rear bulkhead....bit of a mission. Hot tip, don't offer to help change the rear shocks for a mate with a v37.... Remove seat base, 2 clips that slide forward to release it the it lifts straight out Fold down rear seat (pull in from boot) The side bolster of the rear seat is not connected to the middle parts that fold. To remove unbolt at the bottom bolt then push it up off the top hook Then there is a plastic surround behind the seat back, 2 pop out clips, 2 bastard clips, some swearing at it is out Pop the rear seat latch surround off Remove door surround lower trim then side trim  Remove c pillar trim - 4 clips, pull inwards not forwards Remove metal brace - 5 bolts 1 nut Then you have got to the rear strut top...what a pain!
    • If you really want squish back, you can have it put on the piston (at least to some extent).
    • Impressive. He's very very smooth.
×
×
  • Create New...