Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 GTR actuator leak...

Jjtxaz24
 Share

Recommended Posts

Jjtxaz24 Collaborator

Jjtxaz24

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Alright. Update. 

I got the fluids in the transfer case. Went to try and bleed the ATTESSA reservoir in the trunk and when I would unplug the clip in the front driver side I would hear the relay in the boot click on but i didnt hear the pump prime. I think the pumps screwed now. 

I dont know if it leaks just yet where the actuator mates with the transfer case, it was late when I did it. 

Should I leave the 4WD fuse out under the dash or put it in and see if it moved the fluid into the reservoir. 

Heres what it currently looks like: 20230705_222625.thumb.jpg.2a0ece8cf7243bf612eb13f34ae06305.jpg

heres what I used as a guide: 

Screenshot_20230706_004256_Drive.thumb.jpg.ec363e3ec7affa5b958e045ac6882815.jpg

And also this video link: 

 

 

Jjtxaz24 Collaborator

Jjtxaz24

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I drove the car this morning and the 4WD light on the gauge cluster is off (from what I read it comes on due to being low on fluid), picture in my last post is where the fluid level is still at. The torque gauge in the cluster moves up as normal when I pick up the RPMs. It seems to be working fine I just cant get the fluid to fill the enclosed part of the reservoir by activating the pump how the manual suggest. 

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Well, I know both the manual and old mate's video talk about the lower section, 5mm etc etc.

I've never worried about that and not had a 4wd issue, just drive it and forget it unless you notice an issue...

BTW the error light is not just for low fluid level, the ATTESSA system itself can flash error codes with that light when there is a specific problem. Also, the torque gauge is not a reliable way to know 4wd is working correctly, it shows what the ATTESSA computer wants to happen, not what is actually happening mechanically. Other than trying a skid, the next best way to check the 4wd would be with all 4 wheels off the ground (hoist or on stands), just start it and put it in 1st to make sure all 4 wheels are turning approximately the same speed.

Jjtxaz24 Collaborator

Jjtxaz24

Posted
  • Author
Posted
15 minutes ago, Duncan said:

Well, I know both the manual and old mate's video talk about the lower section, 5mm etc etc.

I've never worried about that and not had a 4wd issue, just drive it and forget it unless you notice an issue...

BTW the error light is not just for low fluid level, the ATTESSA system itself can flash error codes with that light when there is a specific problem. Also, the torque gauge is not a reliable way to know 4wd is working correctly, it shows what the ATTESSA computer wants to happen, not what is actually happening mechanically. Other than trying a skid, the next best way to check the 4wd would be with all 4 wheels off the ground (hoist or on stands), just start it and put it in 1st to make sure all 4 wheels are turning approximately the same speed.

That's good to know. I just wanted to double check. I left the 4WD fuse in and left it as if it was good, before I lowered the car off the jackstands I actually ran it through the gears and it was transferring the torque to the front wheels. Unfortunately today after driving it around it still seems to be leaking. I made sure all bleeder locations were tight before I brought it down. I'll have to lift it back up and check again. Car drives me insane sometimes lol. 

  • 2 weeks later...
joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
On 7/6/2023 at 4:08 PM, Jjtxaz24 said:

That's good to know. I just wanted to double check. I left the 4WD fuse in and left it as if it was good, before I lowered the car off the jackstands I actually ran it through the gears and it was transferring the torque to the front wheels. Unfortunately today after driving it around it still seems to be leaking. I made sure all bleeder locations were tight before I brought it down. I'll have to lift it back up and check again. Car drives me insane sometimes lol. 

Definitely if you didn't have a screw loose already these cars will make it happen. 

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PLYNX
      Short shifter r34

      By PLYNX · Posted

      Don't do it if your gearbox box has already having syncro issues. The short hifter will put a greater load on them. If you must I remember Nismo did a shorter shifter, with the top part being physically shorter and the part that went into the gearbox was the same as stock. In saying that I've had a C's short shifter (I think) in mine for many years, which was given to me as the previous owner was not sympathetic to the gearbox. Thus forwarned I was careful and had to modify my normal changing style. You have to be super accurate with your clutch and shifts
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      Well, after a week of daily driving and having to crawl out between the wheel and the side intrusion bars. I got myself a quick release setup. I went with an NRG short hub and Quick Release with some cute heart cutouts on the pull tabs. Nice and matchy matchy with the rest of the interior accents I have going on.  The only downside is the total stack height even with the short adapter is longer than the old HKB boss kit. Luckily I had some adjustment left on the column so move the wheel away.
    • robbo_rb180
      Short shifter r34

      By robbo_rb180 · Posted

      stock shifter with new bushes, springs and cup will improve it. Gktech do all the bits. The opinion as the years have gone on is the redline is not great in old gearboxes.
    • drifter17a
      Short shifter r34

      By drifter17a · Posted

      Hi all   what short shifter do you use on your skykine r34?   my synchronous does have a problem and i was getting huge delay and grinding sound between 2nd and 3rd, did put shockproof red heavy stuff and it is great now/ no issues   would in your view short shifter screw this up?   people seems to suggest/ use cube short shifter and there is standard and premium. Seen review of premium as much better and less play. Thoughts?
    • GTSBoy
      R34 oil and timing belt change

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, there's a bit of a density and friability difference between pebbles and any of those other things. Silicone will definitely float in oil and so will be mobile enough to move around. Although, again, if it is upstream of the filter it really shouldn't go any further. I would only ever worry about silicone when it is in places downstream of the filter. Upstream of the pickup is a whole 'nother matter. We've all seen what that does. I have seen the most abominable crap settled out in industrial gearboxes, trunnion lube systems and the like, without any sign that any of it has touched anything in the machine. Just chilling in the bottom, waiting for the inevitable operator error that causes the whole machine to need to be dismantled for repairs.
×
×
  • Create New...