Standard RB26 head flowing almost 2000hp

[khezz]

hello. Above is a link to the latest HP Academy video detailing the RHM R34 GTR. As you would expect it has allot of high $$ parts but 3 things that stood out to me was that it run a plug and play G4 ECU. Normally these types of cars run over $10000 worth of Motec or Haltech gear. 
 

second was that they are running a standard RB26 head. Yes it has bigger valves and cams. But it is not ported. They say it is more reliable and not a limiting factor. Makes all those CNC porting programs seem useless. Later on they say that once they run more fuel/injectors car will make another 150-200hp.

I may have a parted and polished head for sale as I feel a change of direction coming. 

 

lastly was they are not interfering with the AWD/transfer case controls. It is still automated just like it was from the factory. Case is strengthened but that’s it.

in all an interesting video with some out of the box ideas that clearly work. 

[r32-25t]

They’re running the full race controller and have more clutches in the transfer which is what most of us do 

[khezz]

Yes I know about the extra clutches. But he clearly states that besides the burnout, they leave it auto mode. Ive had so many advice about this. From “set it to 20-80 or 30-70” to “you will need a full gear/speed/boost strategy”. This guy is running 8.2 in plain auto mode. I think I’ll copy him. 

[Butters]

Gosh Haltech must hate videos like that.  Not much PRP gear either.

I enjoyed that, thanks for sharing. 

The stock ports, wow !  I've seen up to 1000 on stock head but never 1500s. 

 

@khezz that rams head in perth yours ?

[khezz]

8 minutes ago, Butters said:

Gosh Haltech must hate videos like that.  Not much PRP gear either.

I enjoyed that, thanks for sharing. 

The stock ports, wow !  I've seen up to 1000 on stock head but never 1500s. 

 

@khezz that rams head in perth yours ?

No, I don’t know who owns that. I won’t be selling mine. Just a tongue in cheek dig at people who advertise gear and say they are selling due to “change in of direction”.

[Komdotkom]

It's all about efficiency. Yes you can make that power with a stock head but you have to ram more boost into it to make the same numbers. HP per PSI will be lower because the engine is less efficient, or to put it another way the engine would make more power on the same boost with a more efficient head.

I'd like to hear more about the 'failures' with ported heads, I can't say that I've ever had  head fail because of the porting.

 

[khezz]

12 minutes ago, Komdotkom said:

It's all about efficiency. Yes you can make that power with a stock head but you have to ram more boost into it to make the same numbers. HP per PSI will be lower because the engine is less efficient, or to put it another way the engine would make more power on the same boost with a more efficient head.

I'd like to hear more about the 'failures' with ported heads, I can't say that I've ever had  head fail because of the porting.

 

Watch the video. They explain where the heads fail. 

[GTSBoy]

On 6/27/2023 at 3:57 PM, khezz said:

Watch the video. They explain where the heads fail. 

They didn't really. No actual word on where they fail, apart from generic, unrelated failures, such as stock valve guides.

[Komdotkom]

On 01/07/2023 at 12:00 PM, GTSBoy said:

They didn't really. No actual word on where they fail, apart from generic, unrelated failures, such as stock valve guides.

And I thought I had missed it...

[33GTRV]

i have found over the years that the rb26 head actually responds exceptionally well to chamber modification and simply smoothing/blending the valve and short turn area. 

[The Mafia]

On 27/06/2023 at 4:01 PM, Butters said:

Gosh Haltech must hate videos like that.  Not much PRP gear either.

I enjoyed that, thanks for sharing. 

The stock ports, wow !  I've seen up to 1000 on stock head but never 1500s. 

 

@khezz that rams head in perth yours ?

I pulled all the PRP gear off my circuit car and binned it. 

It's more reliable now. 

[hattori hanzo]

On 27/06/2023 at 2:07 PM, khezz said:

 From “set it to 20-80 or 30-70” to “you will need a full gear/speed/boost strategy”. This guy is running 8.2 in plain auto mode. I think I’ll copy him. 

for every event just leave it in auto man, i have found it best for circuit, rallysprint and drags. 

When the fullrace is in auto you can adjust the "gain" and again leave it at like 40% of a turn 

 

[The Mafia]

25 minutes ago, hattori hanzo said:

for every event just leave it in auto man, i have found it best for circuit, rallysprint and drags. 

When the fullrace is in auto you can adjust the "gain" and again leave it at like 40% of a turn 

 

I do the same for full circuit. They are a half decent unit but I monitored the output and it was a bit underwhelming. I'm in the middle of creating maps in the Emtron to have full ECU control over the centre diff. 

 

[hattori hanzo]

23 hours ago, The Mafia said:

I do the same for full circuit. They are a half decent unit but I monitored the output and it was a bit underwhelming. I'm in the middle of creating maps in the Emtron to have full ECU control over the centre diff. 

 

How much would the dial adjust the line pressure when its turned? is it a direct % correlation or not?   

[The Mafia]

1 hour ago, hattori hanzo said:

How much would the dial adjust the line pressure when its turned? is it a direct % correlation or not?   

From what I can see in my logs, anything above half way doesn't do too much other than just max out the solenoid. 

The other thing that I notice is it just follows the throttle position mostly. Auto mode doesn't do "that" much. 

Still a decent unit that is a bit better than the stock system. 

The stock system with a digital G sensor would be a good cheap way to do this too. More of a simple installation. 

The Emtron has a huge amount of centre diff control so it will take me a while to get it exactly how I want. But I am confident that there will be nothing that can control the diff as well as the Emtron. I'll also have either a dial or keypad buttons that can adjust the amount of overall intensity. 
 

One other cool thing - I will be able to completely lock out the diff in reverse so that I can turn it. I have a ATS Carbon plated LSD in the front, and fully built transfer case, these make it a little hard to reverse when almost at full lock, the diff binds up. 

[joshuaho96]

On 7/19/2023 at 3:50 PM, The Mafia said:

I pulled all the PRP gear off my circuit car and binned it. 

It's more reliable now. 

Interesting, anything you'd like to say in detail?

[Butters]

I also removed PRP gear.  The prp coil kit was pretty horrible, although to be fair I believe they have revised it all now. 

Went to ignite 5.0, coil kit is mint and they did me a custom trigger kit for my ati balancer 36-2. No cutting front covers and no sensitive pickup points that need to be thousands perfect. 

I do still have a PRP oil pump back cover, I am yet to fit to a car, not sure if I should.  

[The Mafia]

On 22/07/2023 at 11:37 AM, Butters said:

I also removed PRP gear.  The prp coil kit was pretty horrible, although to be fair I believe they have revised it all now. 

Went to ignite 5.0, coil kit is mint and they did me a custom trigger kit for my ati balancer 36-2. No cutting front covers and no sensitive pickup points that need to be thousands perfect. 

I do still have a PRP oil pump back cover, I am yet to fit to a car, not sure if I should.  

I had multiple issues on my GTR:

- Trigger kit trigger errors (version 1, 36-2..)
- Alternator brackets (both types snapped in half) Losing the belt is dangerous, can cook the engine! 
- Alternator pulley squealing like hell,causing belt failures
- New type of coil kit pulling apart and always almost losing the resistor, missfires. 

Replaced all of these items, and no more issues. There is more to it but that's all I will say. Just glad to have a reliable race car now. Very selective on what I put on the car and the advice that I'm given now too.

 

[Butters]

3 hours ago, The Mafia said:

I had multiple issues on my GTR:

- Trigger kit trigger errors (version 1, 36-2..)
- Alternator brackets (both types snapped in half) Losing the belt is dangerous, can cook the engine! 
- Alternator pulley squealing like hell,causing belt failures
- New type of coil kit pulling apart and always almost losing the resistor, missfires. 

Replaced all of these items, and no more issues. There is more to it but that's all I will say. Just glad to have a reliable race car now. Very selective on what I put on the car and the advice that I'm given now too.

 

Ha, you just reminded I also bought the LS1 alt kit, didn't like it, sold it before fitting and bought a direct bolt on alt. 

Been very happy that i spent the little extra for a true bolt on. 

[Komdotkom]

11 hours ago, The Mafia said:

I had multiple issues on my GTR:

- Trigger kit trigger errors (version 1, 36-2..)
- Alternator brackets (both types snapped in half) Losing the belt is dangerous, can cook the engine! 
- Alternator pulley squealing like hell,causing belt failures
- New type of coil kit pulling apart and always almost losing the resistor, missfires. 

Replaced all of these items, and no more issues. There is more to it but that's all I will say. Just glad to have a reliable race car now. Very selective on what I put on the car and the advice that I'm given now too.

 

So what's the current favoured R35 coil kit? I was going to get the BPP one.