Nissan Skyline V35 300 GT Misfire/Rev Jumping issue.

[Arsenal01]

Hey all,

Car is currently at the mechanics. Initially it would go into limp mode at about 2.5k revs and come out with throttle body/peddle sensor fault code. Took it to a mechanic, they replaced the pedal sensor and that fixed the limp mode issue, however, now it misfires when accelerating the car quickly. It runs perfect without issues at high speed or revs when accelerating at a slow/moderate pace. Misfire/rev jumping only occurs when essentially trying to accelerate quickly. I've taken the car to 3 mechanics and this is finally the first one to have made some progress. He's advised that at this point, it essentially becomes a process of elimination issue, recommending spark plugs to be replaced first ($270.60 supplied and fitted), then ignition coils ($929.50 S/F), Swirl Control Valves ($572 S/F) then if none of the above fix it, the actuator (price TBA).

Fault code showing P1130 Swirl Control Solenoid Valve, so wondering if this should be tackled first? 

Mechanic has been very helpful and knows his stuff, just wondering if anyone has encountered similar issues or could give some recommendations? Looking to fix and sell the car ASAP though not just hesitant on spending $2,000+ on replacing parts which may not guarantee it will fix the issue...
I've uploaded a video of what exactly the engine does and just attached a snippet of my mechanics report so far.

 

[V35_Paul]

Found this on nicoclub.com. There is more to the problem in this forum

https://forums.nicoclub.com/p1130-swirl-control-valve-solenoid-valve-t578113.html

P1130, Swirl Control Valve Solenoid Valve--fixed

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Postby Carlsbad » Mon Jul 15, 2013 9:08 pm

I took it to Pepboys and the lady said "P1140". Thus my thread on P1140 elsewhere. I got my reader back and it was P1130, Swirl Control Valve. Glad I didn't buy the Cam Position Sensors.

This valve sits right up on top of the engine but some reading told me that it is sensitive to a lot of inputs. I had just replaced the spark plugs and the idling improved greatly and I thought maybe it just needed to remap to the new idle conditions. I reset the code but it came back in about 150 miles later.

Next some reading told me to blow out the vacuum lines with air--they get clogged up. I thought that was very unlikely but free so I pulled the first one off and tried to blow through it with my mouth and was greatly surprised. No flow. Same with the 2nd long one. The short ones weren't so bad. I blew them out and put them back on and so far 300+ miles, no SES light, and gas mileage the first tankful seems to be 2-3 mpg improved.

I'll post further updates if anything changes but blowing out the vacuum lines is free and if it really gets you 2 mpg, everyone should do it whether they have the code or not.

--Jerry

Edited September 7, 2023 by V35_Paul