Jump to content
SAU Community

S1 RB25DET to RB26 Wiring info

Chi-Town

By Chi-Town,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Chi-Town Explorer

Chi-Town

Posted
Posted (edited)

Sorry about the repost but I figured this title was more accurate. I've searched a bunch but haven't found the info I'm looking for so I'm starting this thread.

Is there a post or diagram showing the wiring changes needed to put a RB26 in a S1 RS4 Stagea? (please provide link or file)

Is there a post or diagram showing how to use a factory S1 260RS engine harness in an S1 RS4 Stagea? (please provide link or file)

Does someone make an ECU adapter harness so go from S1 RB25DET to RB26DET?

Information I can share so far:

Factory 260RS harness is similar to the RSV harness but is missing the Black and White connectors behind the LH headlight and the wiring is different at the connectors near the ECU.

RSV harness lacks the wiring / connections for the following:

Second O2 sensor

Second MAF wiring

Intake decel valve

 

Any help is always appreciated!

 

Edited by Chi-Town
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484915-s1-rb25det-to-rb26-wiring-info/
Share on other sites
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

When you swap the engine, you swap in the engine looms and ECU as well.  Therefore the things you've listed above won't be an issue.

What you do have to deal with is differences in where the engine loom plugs into the body loom near the ECU, the engine loom to the engine bay loom near the power steering reservoir and probably also the engine sub loom that goes under the plenum.

Sorry, I don't have specifics of the differences, you might need to use the gtr engine loom wiring from the R32 gtr manual and a multimeter on the car to work out the differences

Chi-Town Explorer

Chi-Town

Posted
  • Author
Posted

@Duncan thanks for the reply.

That was my original plan, use the 260RS engine harness (I have all 3 pieces) and sort out the interior plugs.

What I ran into that worried me was the 2 plugs behind the LH headlight that aren't on the 260RS harness. They have some heavy gauge wire in them. I noticed the R33 GTR harness has them though?

Do you have a copy of the 33 manual in English?

I have the front end/ fuse box harness from the 260 also if I need to go that far.

 

 

  • 5 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Import insurance in 2025

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The max they would go for me is 50.
    • Duncan
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By Duncan · Posted

      That cannot have been a fun set of drilling. The stock "baffle" looks identical to rb26, I just cut fuel cell foam to fit the full length under the baffle.
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

    • GTSBoy
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I understand your sarcastic exasperation. But to be fair - the baffles do indeed fit OEM cam covers. They did omit to say that you need to do a bunch of stuff. But they do fit them.
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      Got started on the modification to make these splash plates fit over the long weekend. First the surprisingly time consuming task of swapping all the cam cap bolts to Tomei cam cap studs. I did the method of removing one bolt at a time, applying loctite to the stud, double nutting to torque as the manual described. Then carefully unlocking the nuts without disrupting the torque of the stud (and going back to re-torque a few times when it slipped). Finally applying the nut and torquing to spec. Repeat x28 Next up I went about removing the stock cam cover baffle so I could ensure it was fully clean after drilling for stud clearance.  As the blind rivets holding the baffle on were domed I used a punch to mark the center then used 4mm drill bit to carefully drill out the rivet without going too far part the baffle. As seen in other thread here is what is inside the stock baffles I decided on M4x6mm bolts to bolt the baffle plate back on with. I used a 3.3mm drill bit with some tape to mark the depth at ~8mm. Next was to tap the threads using a cheap bunnings kit M4x0.7. With the baffle removed I also drilled out the spot welds holding in the baffle plate oil returns. Unsure whether this was the best option or if I should have cut holes in the Hypertune splash plates to allow the oil drains to still function... time will tell. I then removed the the Hypertune splash plates so I could rest the cam cover on top and use a dab of grease to mark where the studs impacted the oem cam cover baffle. The most obvious spot was on the hump from the stock mesh is held. Using this hole as an anchor I bolted the oem baffle plate back into the cam cover and lined up the Hypertune splash plate. Marked the rest of the holes for the studs and drill those out too. Total 32 holes drilled and 12 threads tapped on the passenger side cam cover alone for this bolt on part that totally clears all OEM cam covers.. Drivers side next as well as some E85 safe fuel foam to fill the space behind the behind cam cover baffle plates. oh and some lock nuts for the splash plates of course.
×
×
  • Create New...