R34 remote door locking issues

[Hafidel36]

Hello, so my first of (hopefully not too) many issues I hope to solve with your help. My remote door unlocking/locking does not function.

 

I have tried the method described HERE and the car goes in programming mode, but then simply doesn't respond to any buttons. I have replaced the battery in the sender.

This is the key I have. Came with the car, but I do not know if this is the original one.

 

Where do I start diagnosing the potential issue? Is it with the receiver, actuator or remote and how?

I opened the opened the doorcard and this is the actuator in the driver door:

Thanks a lot!

[Duncan]

One potential if the car goes into programming mode is the key is actually dead (not just battery).

Might be worth looking at a local locksmith who can code something aftermarket for Nissans of the era

[Hafidel36]

Thanks Duncan, Does someone know what frequency the remote is on? I have a bazillion remotes lying around for work and I can try to use another remote. Should the remote be giving some indicator like a light eg.?

[soviet_merlin]

There's no light on the key. I don't think there's a way to tell whether it's working or not just by looking at it. Personally, I'd try to rule easy things out. Starting with

- Does the central locking work with the key in the door?

- Does the central locking work with the button in the driver's door?

If yes to both then I would think it's less likely to be an issue in the doors themselves. I'd agree with Duncan and try and find out whether the key is actually working or try a different one.

I spent some time with a sort of similar issue on my Stagea where remote unlocking works but locking doesn't. It's the same style key and it looks like it's transmitting at 315MHz. Checked it on a Flipper Zero and it picks up something at 315MHz and FM476 modulation when I press the button.

In my case the key isn't transmitting anything on the lock button. So the key not working even though it looks fine and has a fresh battery seems to be a thing.

 

Might be worth looking into the service manual if you want to dig deeper. See as an example the section of the Stagea manual where it shows how the key signal is picked and how it's passed on to the doors. And the different ways to program or reset it. Not sure if it'll help much for the R34 though as even between the two Stagea series they changed some of the logic. But surely there's an equivalent R34 manual.

stagea_service_manual_central_locking.pdf

[GTSBoy]

14 hours ago, soviet_merlin said:

I spent some time with a sort of similar issue on my Stagea where remote unlocking works but locking doesn't. It's the same style key and it looks like it's transmitting at 315MHz. Checked it on a Flipper Zero and it picks up something at 315MHz and FM476 modulation when I press the button.

This is almost certainly a button problem. The little carbon/rubber pads don't work when you get a layer of schmutz on the contact pad. Usually a wipe with isopropyl is all that is required. I have to do it on my remote fobs every couple of years, various calculator buttons, the alarm keypad in the office. Anything where the buttons get a lot of use and get funky.

[Hafidel36]

Thank you all, I will try to clean the board firstly and alternatively try to get a different FOB. Will let you guys know the result. Car is now off the get manual swapped 🥰

[soviet_merlin]

9 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

This is almost certainly a button problem. The little carbon/rubber pads don't work when you get a layer of schmutz on the contact pad. Usually a wipe with isopropyl is all that is required. I have to do it on my remote fobs every couple of years, various calculator buttons, the alarm keypad in the office. Anything where the buttons get a lot of use and get funky.

OMFG! This has been bugging me for almost two and a half years now. Especially when taking the dogs because of having to walk back onto the street to lock the car. Opened up the key, swiped a cotton bud over all the contact points, bent the battery pins a bit more and put it back together. Didn't even end up using the isopropyl. It didn't look too bad but got a bit of gunk off. Guess what? It's working now. Thanks for the suggestion! I'm so stoked right now, I owe you one.

Though I'm still not quite sure where it went wrong. Because the actual mechanism for the buttons is internal and can't get to it I would think. See SW1 and SW2 on the photo.

 

33 minutes ago, Hafidel36 said:

Thank you all, I will try to clean the board firstly and alternatively try to get a different FOB. Will let you guys know the result. Car is now off the get manual swapped 🥰

Woot, that's very exciting! Re the fob hopefully a bit of a clean is all it needs.

[Hafidel36]

On 08/09/2023 at 1:49 AM, GTSBoy said:

This is almost certainly a button problem. The little carbon/rubber pads don't work when you get a layer of schmutz on the contact pad. Usually a wipe with isopropyl is all that is required. I have to do it on my remote fobs every couple of years, various calculator buttons, the alarm keypad in the office. Anything where the buttons get a lot of use and get funky.

I also checked my FOB, and it was DISGUSTING! 

I had some great hope the cleanup would be enough to get it working again, but unfortunately I'm afraid it was too much for the board. It looks like it got dipped in cola or something. After cleanup it still didn't work, but I am a little bit more certain the FOB is the culprit here.

But great advice! Had no idea the IP rating was in the negatives on these keys.

[GTSBoy]

Oh well. Was worth a shot!

[soviet_merlin]

Hey @Hafidel36, there's an Australian seller on ebay selling replacement keys. See this listing for example. Might be worth a try for you.

There is an alternative R34 listing depending on key type. It's worth messaging them to make sure to get the right one. I ordered a key for my Stagea and they responded same day and stopped me from getting the wrong one.

Programming mode doesn't work on my car currently so I haven't been able to try it, but the key itself looks fine. Seems fine on the signal analyser as well. I'm not convinced it's an OEM one as it didn't come in the Nissan packaging and doesn't have the Nissan logo on the back. But feel and quality-wise it's no different. The actual board in it looks the same as well.

This is how it came. The right one is my original.

 

I was only going to mention it after actually trying to pair the key but I'm not sure when I'll get around to it. I have the annoying door chime disabled that comes up when opening the door with the key still in the ignition. So much better without it, but I think the car doesn't detect the key in the ignition anymore and hence the routine to get into programming mode doesn't work either.

[Hafidel36]

Thanks so much @soviet_merlin! Key looks very good indeed, quite pricey for a replica to be fair though! But good that you mentioned the signal analyser, haven't even thought about that to see if the key works. Might check when I get the car back!

I did buy a general key with FOB on the same frequency from AliExpress but that didn't work as well.

Will keep you posted!

[soviet_merlin]

23 hours ago, Hafidel36 said:

I did buy a general key with FOB on the same frequency from AliExpress but that didn't work as well.

Haha, well, see this is what happens when you go cheap

Personally I don't think $200 is a big ask for a working replacement key. Not having to lock/unlock the car with the key in the door all the time would be worth more than that to me. And they do state that they offer a full refund if the key doesn't work.

And if the non-OEM outside is a problem, just swap the PCB over to the old key.

What might help: I had the key on my watchlist and sitting in my cart on ebay for a few days without actually purchasing it and the seller sent an ebay offer with a 15% discount.

[Hafidel36]

On 29/11/2023 at 10:54 PM, soviet_merlin said:

Haha, well, see this is what happens when you go cheap

Personally I don't think $200 is a big ask for a working replacement key. Not having to lock/unlock the car with the key in the door all the time would be worth more than that to me. And they do state that they offer a full refund if the key doesn't work.

And if the non-OEM outside is a problem, just swap the PCB over to the old key.

What might help: I had the key on my watchlist and sitting in my cart on ebay for a few days without actually purchasing it and the seller sent an ebay offer with a 15% discount.

Well it wasn't necessarily going cheap. Just wasn't sure the key was the issue as it has never worked since I got the car.

Ordered a new key now, found one in the UK so a lot closer to me! Will keep everyone posted if it works!

[soviet_merlin]

Hah, I was just joking. Fingers crossed the new one works!

[alnoz7]

The key is not recognised on my 2005 Stagea - just get the key symbol lighting up in red on the cluster. Where to start with solving the issue?  Have downloaded Nissdat 2 and 3 but still cannot access the system to search for faults? Any suggestions or likely source of help with diagnostics in N.E Vic/ Albury area?