Jump to content
SAU Community

r33 timing issue


Recommended Posts

i have a rb25de and have recently done the water pump after it blew but now the car is really down on power i put the belt back on and lined it with all the marks and even set it to 15 degrees with a timing light but it still won’t rev could it be the belt tension? not sure what to do

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Will back up what trident said.

Pull it again, and check the marks. Take photos of all the marks and post them.

Also check the harmonic hasnt spun the outter section which has the timing marks.

Also check you've reconnected everything properly, all pipes, cables etc.

Do you have adjustable cam gears, or factory ones?

 

When you say it won't rev, does it start all perfectly normal, but then you try and press the accelerator and it won't rev up?

Or you're having to start the motor with throttle, especially a lot of it?

If the latter, I suspect you have one cam advanced massively, another retarded massively, and you've done this by lining the gears up on the wrong mark. Been there, done it myself on an RB25DE head.

Car would start and run a bit, but was basically at WOT only it would run (and wasn't much over idle RPM). I also had an aftermarket ECU, so was running MAP not AFM.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah as far as i know all 3 of the marks are lined up (i’ve checked about 4 times because of this issue) i will take it apart tomorrow and post it on here

when turning the car on from cold i have to use throttle but idles fine. when revving when driving it almost spatters and won’t go much higher then 3000rpm

i have factory cam gears

the harmonic balancer has definitely not spun

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Cozzamb said:

yeah as far as i know all 3 of the marks are lined up (i’ve checked about 4 times because of this issue) i will take it apart tomorrow and post it on here

when turning the car on from cold i have to use throttle but idles fine. when revving when driving it almost spatters and won’t go much higher then 3000rpm

i have factory cam gears

the harmonic balancer has definitely not spun

 

Have you actually verified TDC cylinder 1 is where the balancer says it is? Has this engine been rebuilt at all?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, Cozzamb said:

yeah as far as i know all 3 of the marks are lined up (i’ve checked about 4 times because of this issue) i will take it apart tomorrow and post it on here

when turning the car on from cold i have to use throttle but idles fine. when revving when driving it almost spatters and won’t go much higher then 3000rpm

i have factory cam gears

the harmonic balancer has definitely not spun

 

Double check the AFM is plugged in too, AND both temp sensors are plugged in too.

 

Do a huge double check for air leaks too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

27 minutes ago, Cozzamb said:

not sure how i would verify TDC for cylinder 1 as i’ve just been doing everything off the workshop manual

Spark plug out. stick/screwdriver in the hole. When it stops going up and starts going down, that's TDC. Very hard to catch the exact top because the motion slows down as it dwells across the top, so you end up needing to look at the height of the indicator a few degrees either side of where you think TDC is. If it is at a certain height and rising at some indicated angle and then it is at the same height and falling at some other later angle, then halfway between those angles is true TDC.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, blind_elk said:

Sometimes, the timing light indicates the incorrect timing. How did you actually measure / set timing?

This is worth thinking about, personally I hate worrying about whether the inductive loop or whatever is all set up correctly. I just use a spark plug wire on cylinder 1 instead.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Great to know! The guys from The Skyline Shed are going to sort it out and send what I ordered anyway. Turns out their supplier sent them the wrong stock.  But it's good to know I "can" put this in if needed
    • You do not need an LSD oil in any stock (non-GTR) diff, even if it is an "LSD". This because none of the (non-GTR) LSDs are clutch/friction type LSDs. Either viscous or helical - neither of which require an LSD oil.
    • Hi everyone, I bought the Redline diff oil and the seller has sent me Redline 75W90NS even though that’s not what’s pictured.  I’ve already booked a hoist to go and change my diff tomorrow but I’m not sure if the NS is ok for the rear diff in a R34 GTT I think the NS does not have any slip modifiers so would that be an issue?    thanks in advance 
    • Not easy to find pics from 15 years ago, but here is a partial one. Keep in mind that it curved immediately from the airbox, then kept a straight line for the MAF to read correctly, followed by a 45 degree bend straight down to the turbo. This connection was the most difficult as it had to twist as well as bend to meet the almost vertical straight section of the intake.
    • Yes, well, wrt a wheel alignment, there are two types. Either: You have very little added adjustables, in which case the alignment can be done by anyone in any tyre shop or equivalent, and will only take 30 minutes, and so there is no reason to even consider leaving the car there. OR: The alignment is a major exercise because you have adjustables everywhere and so you will need to be taking it to a shop that is skilled and experienced at setting up race cars and the like, and you won't need to worry about leaving the car there.
×
×
  • Create New...