R32 GTR overhaul/change of parts

[timmy94]

Would you see an upgrade/replacement of OEM bushings on the R32 GTR as an ”bad” upgrade on an Almost complete oem/untouched r32 gtr? 
 

im going through an inspection an removed the subframe. Thought that an replacement of some of the rubber bushings to whitline or nismo (as close to oem as possible) could be an good idea but i dont want to Replace to much on an Almost oem car. 
 

would you leave the old in or change them? Would a car like this ”decrease its value” if i replaced bushings on the car? 

[joshuaho96]

23 minutes ago, timmy94 said:

Would you see an upgrade/replacement of OEM bushings on the R32 GTR as an ”bad” upgrade on an Almost complete oem/untouched r32 gtr? 
 

im going through an inspection an removed the subframe. Thought that an replacement of some of the rubber bushings to whitline or nismo (as close to oem as possible) could be an good idea but i dont want to Replace to much on an Almost oem car. 
 

would you leave the old in or change them? Would a car like this ”decrease its value” if i replaced bushings on the car? 

Replace the bushings. Either Nismo or OEM. Whiteline bushings are polyurethane and do not have the same behavior as rubber. If you want an OEM experience run OEM rubber. Some bushings due to the nature of the kinematics require compliance from rubber while others you can make it as stiff as you can tolerate from an NVH perspective. If you are asking questions like this I don't think it's worth the trouble to research what bushings should stay rubber and what should be polyurethane.

[GTSBoy]

For good driving, upgrade everything,

For retaining "purity", upgrade nothing.

I think purity is stupid. The cars will eventually become museum pieces. Do not consider what you are doing to the "purity" or the "value" when making these decisions.

[Duncan]

Replacing every bush and ball joint is the #1 best thing you can do in these cars after all this time.

If your rear subframe is out, you would be mad not to replace:

- Subframe bushes

- Diff bushes (and change the oil while it is out)

- HICAS ball joints, or even better replace with HICAS lock out

- Every upper and lower control arm link (use adjustable aftermarket poly bushes at both ends of every arm)

- If you have a press, it is a good time to do rear wheel bearings as well but not essential

If you want it to look stock you can put factory bushes back in, but that will be x times more expensive for no improvement in ability to align it. I can't see a car with original bushes that clunks or tramlines all over the place being worth more than one that drives beautifully.

[GTSBoy]

I'm with him ^ but I wouldn't keep stock upper arms at either end of the car. Adjustable length arms needed. Otherwise park it and never drive it. Oh, and another small difference in his HICAS recommendation. Total elimination is better than a lock bar.

Keep all the stock bits you remove in the shed, and give the box to the buyer when you dispose of your investment in 3 years.

Edited September 25, 2023 by GTSBoy

[timmy94]

as always Thanks guys.. 

 

where can i get the oem rubbers? 
But Will probably go for nismo ones then.

Im going through an overhaul/inspection/restauration and i would be grateful for  some tips on some good places to buy these kind of stuff. 
 

[joshuaho96]

15 hours ago, timmy94 said:

as always Thanks guys.. 

 

where can i get the oem rubbers? 
But Will probably go for nismo ones then.

Im going through an overhaul/inspection/restauration and i would be grateful for  some tips on some good places to buy these kind of stuff. 
 

Nissan USA dealers, PartsForNissans, etc. Amayama is also an option. Nismo parts you can try RHDJapan, Trust Kikaku, or Nengun.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Man you murcannnsss have dried up Amayama.

Sigh.

[joshuaho96]

16 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Man you murcannnsss have dried up Amayama.

Sigh.

I really don't get it anymore, even accounting for currency fluctuations Amayama is often more expensive than US dealers for the same parts these days.

[timmy94]

On 9/26/2023 at 1:16 AM, Duncan said:

Replacing every bush and ball joint is the #1 best thing you can do in these cars after all this time.

If your rear subframe is out, you would be mad not to replace:

- Subframe bushes

- Diff bushes (and change the oil while it is out)

- HICAS ball joints, or even better replace with HICAS lock out

- Every upper and lower control arm link (use adjustable aftermarket poly bushes at both ends of every arm)

- If you have a press, it is a good time to do rear wheel bearings as well but not essential

If you want it to look stock you can put factory bushes back in, but that will be x times more expensive for no improvement in ability to align it. I can't see a car with original bushes that clunks or tramlines all over the place being worth more than one that drives beautifully.

Whiteline is the only option for the 4 subframe bushes? Cant really find anything Else and nismo dont have them at all. 
 

isnt whiteline a really shitty poly bushing?

On 9/25/2023 at 10:12 PM, joshuaho96 said:

Replace the bushings. Either Nismo or OEM. Whiteline bushings are polyurethane and do not have the same behavior as rubber. If you want an OEM experience run OEM rubber. Some bushings due to the nature of the kinematics require compliance from rubber while others you can make it as stiff as you can tolerate from an NVH perspective. If you are asking questions like this I don't think it's worth the trouble to research what bushings should stay rubber and what should be polyurethane.

 

[GTSBoy]

There's no problem with poly subframe bushings.

GKTech, and many others, also have them.

Don't be fooled by Nismo anything. There is little to no difference between a Nismo suspension bush or engine mount and the stocker that originally cost 1/3 the price.

[joshuaho96]

20 minutes ago, timmy94 said:

Whiteline is the only option for the 4 subframe bushes? Cant really find anything Else and nismo dont have them at all. 
 

isnt whiteline a really shitty poly bushing?

 

Whiteline is probably fine for the subframe, technically I believe Nismo USA is selling solid aluminum subframe bushings these days which is a step harsher than that. Again, this is a question of what you care about. If you want "purity" then I'm pretty sure Nismo is actually the only option for "OEM", looking at the OEM parts catalog they don't break out the subframe bushing as a separate part. 55442-RS580 should be what you're looking for.

[GTSBoy]

I put OEM rubber subframe bushes into my car when I did the non-HICAS subframe swap more than a decade ago. I really wish I'd put in something firmer.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Hardrace do harden subframe bushes, used them before and they're of decent quality.

I've gone full retard this time and fitted offset polyurethane bushes to shift the subframe 10mm closer to the chassis, great mod as all your suspension arms are pretty much at OEM geometry when your car is slightly lowered.

[Duncan]

Poly bushes are really the way to go, whiteline are fine for street and even race use and so are other brands eg super pro etc. Some of their bushes are available in black instead of yellow if you don't want them so obvious

Noltec aren't really around any more, but they did have issues with crumbling over time, don't use them if you come across them. I haven't had a particular problem with other brands, they do degrade over time depending on use like factory ones do.

[GTSBoy]

At least there's no rotational movement in a subframe or diff bush to cause them to gall up. They just sit there static.

[Old man 32 GTR]

On 28/9/2023 at 10:06 AM, Duncan said:

Noltec aren't really around any more, but they did have issues with crumbling over time, don't use them if you come across them. I haven't had a particular problem with other brands, they do degrade over time depending on use like factory ones do.

Yep, I had a brand new set of Noltec rear subframe bushes that came with my 32 when I bought it, when I was doing the rear subframe, I considered using them, I opened the packet and they were all cracked, and they started to fall apart when touched, and these had never been fitted to a car, just fell apart with age I guess. 
I fitted white line rear subframe bushes in mine, but it’s a while off driving so can’t comment on what they are like. 
my rear is a mix of white line and Nismo, 

 

[timmy94]

Since my hicas balljoints are completely gone, i guess i should consider hicas delete kit instead of replacement of the balljoints. Surprised when i saw that The balljoints was Almost as expansive as the full hicas delete kit. 

[Duncan]

You will be happier for removing HICAS than trying to get it back to original.

The bushes in an elimination kit will also last longer than the factory style balljoint because of their design, although I guess anyone renewing bushes after 30 years will never have to do it again in the life of the car, not too many of these doing the daily commute any more and petrol will disappear soon enough

[Predator1]

On 26/09/2023 at 4:43 AM, timmy94 said:

Would you see an upgrade/replacement of OEM bushings on the R32 GTR as an ”bad” upgrade on an Almost complete oem/untouched r32 gtr? 
 

im going through an inspection an removed the subframe. Thought that an replacement of some of the rubber bushings to whitline or nismo (as close to oem as possible) could be an good idea but i dont want to Replace to much on an Almost oem car. 
 

would you leave the old in or change them? Would a car like this ”decrease its value” if i replaced bushings on the car? 

PLEASE DONT use WHITELINE BULLSHIT BUSHES.

My rear diff bushings were destroyed after just a few 1000 k's.. and yes, they were done by a reputable shop. Replaced with Nismo bushings and its perfect.

 

If the subframe is off, then it pays to replace all, especially if they have some age on them.