Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Regularly when I warm start my 2001 Skyline (300GT Sport) it starts, revs up a little as it should, then the idle drops back down, but to somewhere below 100RPM, and all but stalls. I've never had to actually startthe car again, it always catches it, but it's been slowly getting worse the last year or so, to the point that last weekend at Bunnings, the tacho actually read 0 RPM. There's no check engine light, nothing in the OBD logs etc. Is there anything common that would cause this, that I need to pay attention to?

Cold start is fine, and it's not every time it does a warm start. With the exception of some laboring from the AC pump, the car is great condition for its age. I'm the 3rd owner (1 in Japan, 2 in NZ), always been garaged, serviced etc.

 

photo_2023-09-30_10-03-21.thumb.jpg.e3ef1e89c4c477773003ff558471a82b.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484971-v35-almost-stalling/
Share on other sites

I'm not too sure about the DD engines, but on a DE I would suggest you start with a throttle body clean and an idle air volume learn procedure.  Would be worth cleaning the MAF with an appropriate cleaner too.

5 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Do these things have an e-throttle, or are they still using a AAC/IACV for idle control? If the latter, take it off, take it apart, clean it thoroughly with carby cleaner, parts cleaner or brake-kleen. it'll be full of gunk, sticky, and slow to move.

It's DBW. Easiest place to start is make sure the throttle body isn't clogged up too badly. Long term fuel trims will also give some idea of what's going on.

Just an update on this: I had a busy weekend doing home DIY, haven't had a chance to look at it, but this time on Sunday evening it actually properly stalled and I had to start it again. Check engine light came on after the stall (as to be expected), but I haven't checked any logs etc yet.

Weirdly, the lowered V35 has become our 'practical' car. We also have a V37 Hybrid, so the ski hole (which is missing on the Hybrid, as the batteries get in the way), ability to tow friends broken down cars etc has made the V35 (towing seem to be a hybrid no-no) has made it our practical car hah. I'm half tempted to fit a tow bar to it, but that seems a bad idea.

You can tow with the Q50/V37 hybrid, but you really need to be careful pulling anything up an incline at very low speed, like a boat ramp.  These cars don't have a torque converter in the transmission and rely on the low/reverse brake to act as a clutch at very low speeds (lower than idle speeds in 1st gear) and they don't like to slip for extended periods.

That said, it probably isn't too wise to tow anything heavier than your average box trailer.

Edited by sonicii

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok glad you clarified on the frenchy’s options , I was worried about if my oem hoses would fit the new compressor or not if I just bought the bracket/compressor kit ,  didn’t realize they also sold a larger full conversion kit. Hmm may just go oem in that case then to make it easy only because I plan to sell this car to upgrade to a 32 GTR or 34 GTT.
    • Right, here's a video of the basic operation at least.  This is what you can expect day to day when you turn the car on and it boots from standby.  The only thing from a media point of view I haven't gotten working is for it to autoplay plexamp when it turns on from standby (it works from cold boot) but that's more of a plexamp problem as it will autoplay other music players.  Also attached is my one stray cable.  It's part of the screen's wiring adapters but there's just nowhere for it to go in my car.  I've just now done a bit of research and found a matching port on a 2010-2014 head unit with BOSE.  Mine has no BOSE so that's that case pretty much closed I think.  Plugging in the Infiniti AC panel basically did nothing for me, so that's a dead end as well.  Next port of call is to mess with this CANBUS module and see what I can find from it.  I found this resource containing the DBC files for a 2010+ G37 : https://github.com/icecube45/Dash_InfinitiG37/blob/master/InfinitiG37.dbc I'll now have something to go from when I try to extract my CANBUS data so I can see if the HVAC Mode, Fan Speed, Temperature, etc. match and also the gear shifter position.  It's a pretty big assumption that it's just mismatched CAN signals but considering all the devices in the CAN network are talking to each other (AC can be fully adjusted just with no info on screen) it might be a safe one.  I will report back WhatsApp Video 2025-02-26 at 12.49.10.mp4
    • Thanks for that Paul.  Do you think if I posted a picture you'd be able to remember where it went? 
    • Sorry Duncan, I didn't get a notification for the replies.  Thanks for responding!  It's a full Android device, but does allow you to use CarPlay/AA as well.  This is the one I bought from NaviRS on AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006368602668.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.111.59aa1802JDzQ0E - the 2K 8G-256G CAM variant but it seems to have gone up by £170 since I bought it!  My purchase was £307.14.   It's not the fastest thing in the world but performs perfectly adequately.  It stays on standby unless I disconnect the battery and let it power down, then it's just a fairly standard Android bootup time from cold.  The DSP Equaliser is very nice and made the standard stereo system sound pretty decent compared to the stock screen.  Perhaps I can take a video of it when I get a sec. It *allegedly* supports the reverse camera, but I'm yet to get that working.  It has options for reverse cam (a camera unit can be bought separately) or 360 cameras (also bought separately).  To be fair it doesn't seem to detect that the shifter was put into reverse but I'm working on a theory about this as well.  At the moment I'm going without which is a bit annoying considering the car is an absolute canal barge but so far I haven't caused any damage I'll grab a picture of the wire I'm missing later today when I can get outside.  My theory, by the by, is that not only is the head unit different, but the CANBUS network has different signals for the different years.  I think this because I have a spare AC panel from a newer Infiniti G37 (as opposed to my Nissan panel) which wouldn't control anything except the volume when I had it wired up with the stock system.  I'm going to throw it back in and see if the screen will respond to it.  I've just ordered an arduino CANBUS module so I can have a look at the signals going around the car and see if I can spot anything.  I'm thinking if I can work out what it's expecting vs what it's getting I might be able to translate and relay the signal back but so far just a theory anyway. I also found this on my travels, so far the only one that specifically matches my car: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002822934280.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.33433e5fgttovi If you look at the picture of the before, it has the card reader slot, and the picture of the head unit is exactly the same as the one pictured in my original post.  I asked if they sell the cables separately but sadly they won't.  I didn't want to just buy this one because it's a super old Android version and only dual core - likely slow as hell. 
    • As above, you did refill the coolant and burp the system before running it again didn't you?
×
×
  • Create New...