Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm sure this has been done to death but I couldn't find anything about the specific coolers I'm looking at.

Brief spec of car is HKS 2.8, Vcam, Garret G30-770 turbo. Power goal is 600-650HP.

I'm trying to decide between the HPI 100MM, Plazmaman 76MM & HKS 100MM. The HKS & Plazmaman are roughly the same price landed in the UK, the HPI is around £200 cheaper.

Has anyone used the HPI core? Is the HKS/Plazmaman worth the extra over the HPI? Will I see any advantage over the 100MM core vs the 76MM core?

At the moment I am leaning towards the HPI but only want to buy once :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485066-r32-gtr-intercooler-options/
Share on other sites

yeah 650AWHP. 

The Plazmaman is only 76mm though but they say rated to 850HP.

Hypertune seems to be overpriced for what it is, its double the price of the HPI cooler & doesnt seem like it will give much more of a gain. Hypertune just seems to be for bling youtuber points

7 hours ago, ianp said:

yeah 650AWHP. 

The Plazmaman is only 76mm though but they say rated to 850HP.

Hypertune seems to be overpriced for what it is, its double the price of the HPI cooler & doesnt seem like it will give much more of a gain. Hypertune just seems to be for bling youtuber points

Hypertune has had a lot of complaints here recently regarding customer service, I'd probably pass unless you want to deal with that.

3 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

Hypertune has had a lot of complaints here recently regarding customer service, I'd probably pass unless you want to deal with that.

They have had ALOT of complaints for a long time. Absolute fkn pricks, esp Peter Lewin. That flamin mongrel deserves a punch in his fkn nuts.

Edited by Predator1
  • Like 1
  • Haha 1

Hyperfail

Get a Plazmaman core, low IATs, good welds, good construction, good end tanks.

I run a 76mm one, and jam 2 bar (tapering down to 1.7bar) through it. IATs normally about 10~15 degrees more than ambient (and that's with the EMAP over shooting the MAP too).

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Hyperfail

Get a Plazmaman core, low IATs, good welds, good construction, good end tanks.

I run a 76mm one, and jam 2 bar (tapering down to 1.7bar) through it. IATs normally about 10~15 degrees more than ambient (and that's with the EMAP over shooting the MAP too).

What he said. You cant go wrong with Plazmaman. If you can fit a 100mm, then might as well stick that in. 

Oh yeah those IAT vs ambient temps are after going around a circuit multiple laps too.

Not quick squirt/pass kind of thing down a strip. IAT probably even lower if you do that.

  • Thanks 1
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there it is trickier. Ecutek seems to be one of those closed ecosystems where everyone password protects their tunes which means I either choose a tuner and can't change from them and can't make any changes myself for any reason, or I have to buy the tuning software (about $4k) and then get someone to tune from scratch (which is not simple with all the multi dimensional tables these days). Once you buy about 300 "flash points" per ECU you can get it tuned and add their "RaceROM" function which hacks extra functionality like launch control onto the ECU, and also makes extra data available for logging over CAN Not sure what I'll do there yet; I'm tempted to use one of the overseas shops that does billions of remote tunes of the platform instead of starting from scratch locally, a lot can be done online these days.
    • Can I log IAT eh? Well, can now So next thing was looking at data logging. Not straight forward because none of the motorsport displays have cracked the nissan/inifinti CAN and ECU based displays don't do g logging, lap timing, predictive laps etc.  So, I bought an Ecutek dongle from Tunehouse (Oz distributor). Even without a tune onboard that allows display and logging of about 50 parameters via Android (and presumably iOS) app. Approx 600 for the bluetooth + Usb version That gives me (pretty ugly but) functional dash display on Android And logging of these parameters I'll play around a bit over the break, but at least now I can make sure I have oil pressure when I get to some track testing.  
    • I don't know what globes/headlight connector they run, but I'd be looking for a female adapter to plug into the existing headlight on one side. Something like this https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/256017245989 Then I'd use a pair of single input, double output relays (one for low, one for high), mount them in a spare space in the fuse box if you want to to look more original (and be easier to maintain). Then 2 new power sources from the main stud in the fuse box via a fuse to each relay. Low from the headlight adapter pin triggers low relay and high from the high headlight adapter pin triggers high and low. Earth the relays and new headlight sockets and off you go. Because it triggers off the original headlight all of the dipping/hi on/high flash all still works
×
×
  • Create New...