Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got these brakes with a r33 gtst series one I brought a few years back and presumed they were to suit the vehicle.  But then I recently brought another r33 gtst but the rear brakes are different.  Hoping I have something special 😅 any help greatly appreciated 🙏  first 2 pics are of the caliper in question

 

 

16997653033793323827687432362220.thumb.jpg.ad053e4da29fbba7d5d42140c41cdd53.jpg

 

the 3rd pic is of rear brakes on new car

On 11/12/2023 at 6:42 AM, Dylank said:

Are you ever actually helpful 🙄

I reread his comment about 10x and have yet to see how it could be misconstrued as unhelpful.

Edited by TurboTapin

By saying "I think your new "gtst" left the factory as a gts....maybe check the VIN"

Doesn't give me any information at all. I already checked the vin turns out they are both turbo manual from factory. Would have been helpful if he said the twin piston front callipers are from a none turbo model. 

Here just to clear up that I have 2 pairs of front turbo brakes. I just had them NA ones in  the boot of one and thought someone would know straight away. Thanks to the legends that help a brother out and don't play God with the information they know, we're all good at doing different things, helping someone with your knowledge is a act of kindness. Making a joke out of a simple question is pretty disrespectful, this could be my first r33 I've took apart and put back together (it is)

20231113_193810.jpg

To be fair to Duncan, Dylan, the rest of us followed what he said just fine....perhaps because we already knew that NAs had sliding calipers. And, it would be possible to infer the same conclusion from Duncan's statement.

I wouldn't have bothered with my more "helpful" reply if I had seen Duncan's before I posted, but he submitted his reply about 2s before I did. On another day, I would have likely been just as sarcastic.

On 26/11/2023 at 8:21 PM, mungy said:

That is 100% a non turbo caliper, throw it in the bin before it breeds.

sell it to R31 owners.
Also I've seen Maximas with same calipers. Never got around to getting a pair from wreckers and test fitting on my old R31.

  • 4 weeks later...
On 11/12/2023 at 6:04 AM, GTSBoy said:

Pic in the first post is of a nasty, generic, sliding caliper as found on Corollas and other shitboxen, including NA Skylines (at the front).

Pic in the 2nd post is the 2-pistone opposed caliper as found on the rear of turbo Skylines.

hi i am new to the community and am having a similar problem. i have a 1994 4door r33 gtst na and my front calibers are draging. i have the generic sliding caliber. but my problem  is finding the same calibers to replace them with. or if cound use the better turbo front calibers if they would fit without any other chages to the brakes 

If you want to fit the turbo calipers you would ideally also put the matching master cylinder on - there's a bit more piston area in the 4 pistons than there in the twin pistons.

You can just rebuild your calipers. Caliper rebuild has been the first option since disc brakes were invented. Outright replacement is a modern disease. You make no mention of what country you are in. Finding replacements might be 10x harder than ordering in the required rebuild kit.

15 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

If you want to fit the turbo calipers you would ideally also put the matching master cylinder on - there's a bit more piston area in the 4 pistons than there in the twin pistons.

You can just rebuild your calipers. Caliper rebuild has been the first option since disc brakes were invented. Outright replacement is a modern disease. You make no mention of what country you are in. Finding replacements might be 10x harder than ordering in the required rebuild kit.

sorry, im out of Florida USA. and i have looked for rebuild kits for the slide calibers but ive had no luck. i just put new pads and rotors all the way around. front calipers compressed fine but now there draging. i do have the 4 lug hubs. if i swap to the 4 pot calipers could i still use the 4 lug rotors or would i have to swap everting out for the 5 lug rotors? im just useing it as a daliy famly car so im not trying to go crazy. 

Yeah, you need the right rotors to go with the 4 pot calipers and the rotors are all drilled 5 stud. You can buy blanks (sometimes, if you know how, and are lucky) and get them drilled to whatever pattern you want, but I suspect that this is not your path forward here, as you would also need to be changing the MC, and the hoses, and so on.

If you were in Oz I would just tell you to take it to a local brake workshop and get them to rebuild the calipers. They should be able to source the required parts, rechrome pistons if required, etc etc. If you were in some other buttfack country it might be difficult to make such a recommendation because there probably is no such thing as a brake workshop/chain in many such places. As you're in Fl, I have no idea what the mechanical landscape for specialist automotive looks like, but I would be horrified to hear that it had all disappeared from the landscape. So, go find the brake equivalent of Midas and let them do it.

5 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Yeah, you need the right rotors to go with the 4 pot calipers and the rotors are all drilled 5 stud. You can buy blanks (sometimes, if you know how, and are lucky) and get them drilled to whatever pattern you want, but I suspect that this is not your path forward here, as you would also need to be changing the MC, and the hoses, and so on.

If you were in Oz I would just tell you to take it to a local brake workshop and get them to rebuild the calipers. They should be able to source the required parts, rechrome pistons if required, etc etc. If you were in some other buttfack country it might be difficult to make such a recommendation because there probably is no such thing as a brake workshop/chain in many such places. As you're in Fl, I have no idea what the mechanical landscape for specialist automotive looks like, but I would be horrified to hear that it had all disappeared from the landscape. So, go find the brake equivalent of Midas and let them do it.

yea getting the work done is no problem. i am certified master Technion id be doing the work. as for the mechanical landscape, other than upgrade parts website's we are left to oem jap sites like amayama.com and rhdjapan.com and whatever is on ebay. im just having an Absolut  nightmare finding parts for this!  super excited for its my first skyline. i was able to find the right parts for my rotors and pads on ebay from different country's but the calipers thats a different story. i tryed looking up rebuild kits like you suggested but only came across rebuild kits for the 4 pot calipers. idk if you would be able or willing to see if could find eather the slide calipers or rebuild kit for them in your country and sending me a link! id be willing to send you money for looking for them for me as well!  and i do really apricate your time and help!

1 hour ago, bryan borges said:

idk if you would be able or willing to see if could find eather the slide calipers or rebuild kit for them in your country and sending me a link!

I wouldn't expect to be able to find a "kit". That is far too American a way of going about things, and it generally applies only to enthusiast grade gear, and the sliding calipers are definitely not enthusiast grade.

That is why I suggested taking it to a brake shop. Because they will have catalogues and cross references to other Nissan/Jap crap and will be able to source seals and clips and shims and so on. Plus do the work to repair the bores or rechrome the pistons (or source new ones, depending) if required. This will be 70millionX more effective than trying to find a "kit", which I am damn sure will not exist.

On 12/28/2023 at 7:19 PM, GTSBoy said:

I wouldn't expect to be able to find a "kit". That is far too American a way of going about things, and it generally applies only to enthusiast grade gear, and the sliding calipers are definitely not enthusiast grade.

That is why I suggested taking it to a brake shop. Because they will have catalogues and cross references to other Nissan/Jap crap and will be able to source seals and clips and shims and so on. Plus do the work to repair the bores or rechrome the pistons (or source new ones, depending) if required. This will be 70millionX more effective than trying to find a "kit", which I am damn sure will not exist.

when i say kit i mean when all the seals that are needed come in the same order. ik there is not going to just be a kit with everting i need, only in fairytales. im just looking for the parts to fix it weather its new seals or a full used caliper. i run a shop in fl and we dont have brake shops that rebuild calipers in the states, its a lost art mostly. but the few ones that do rebuild them they deal with domestic cars and dont have anything to cross reference to cars made in jap. so theres nowhere i can take my r33 to so they could get that seals. let alone trust them to not f**k it up. and they would just tell me they cant get the right seals cuz the car is not made in the usa. thats why im just looking for eather a set of front slide calipers or the seals to rebuild them. like at this point ik im not going to find new slide calipers for this car, ifi can find good used ones then bet. im just trying to save myself from spending almost $2000+ to fix brakes after i just bought new pads and rotors for my 4 lug.to use them 4 pot im gonna need new 5 lug hubs to fit the rotor for the 4 pot calipers as well the corresponding pads. if theres no place where your from to find the seals or the calipers then ig im just SOL. 🤷‍♂️😢

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
×
×
  • Create New...