Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you can get some 4 pot calipers and 5 stud rotors you can drill the rotors to 4 stud. 1 of the stud holes lines up, so you make a mandrel that locates the ventre bore of both rotors, and one of the stud holes and drill the other 3.

Would be cheaper than changing hubs and also wheels to 5 stud

We have brake specialist shops here in Oz. Just google one or several of them up and send some e-mails?

Just don't bother with GSL Rallysport, if you happen to find them.

Try ABS Auto (who I know are in Adelaide and are also in other capital cities). Googling "brake repair [capital city]" with the various state capitals will turn up a number of other specialist shops.

So, having just done rear pads on the Titan, I was reminded that last year when I checked them out the sliders were seized pretty well so I went looking for a rebuild kit. One piecing one together from US and Nissan sites it came to about $300. Or, you could buy off the shelf (although ironically OOS) pre-rebuilt calipers for about $50 cheaper like this: https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/power-stop-performance-brake-calipers-s2948/_/R-BHKQ-S2948

So I guess this could just be a cultural difference where in the US changing calipers is the quick and cheap default way to do this.

@bryan borges to do this the old fashioned way you need to identify the parts is to put your VIN in an online nissan catalogue like this: https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/nissan?_s=h, then head to the front brakes illustration (should be 440) to select the parts. It looks like they do a rubber kit but the pins are separate. You can then use the part numbers to choose a supplier

16 hours ago, Duncan said:

So, having just done rear pads on the Titan, I was reminded that last year when I checked them out the sliders were seized pretty well so I went looking for a rebuild kit. One piecing one together from US and Nissan sites it came to about $300. Or, you could buy off the shelf (although ironically OOS) pre-rebuilt calipers for about $50 cheaper like this: https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/power-stop-performance-brake-calipers-s2948/_/R-BHKQ-S2948

So I guess this could just be a cultural difference where in the US changing calipers is the quick and cheap default way to do this.

@bryan borges to do this the old fashioned way you need to identify the parts is to put your VIN in an online nissan catalogue like this: https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/nissan?_s=h, then head to the front brakes illustration (should be 440) to select the parts. It looks like they do a rubber kit but the pins are separate. You can then use the part numbers to choose a supplier

i have been on amayama. and i have found the right calipers for my car only to fine that the part numbers for the one pot calipers and two pot calipers are the same. how ever after doing some more digging i found that some year nissan pathfinders have the same front caliper style. not sure if they would fit but its worth a try. only $150 for new front set. if that dosent ill test my luck with getting the $500 calipers of amayama and hope there right!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's actually encouraging to be honest. my motor was rebuild many years ago but it's probably done less than 30,000kms and fucc all limiter or drift, majority street / drag / roll racing. It'll be fine 馃挭馃徏 I don't even have lines or a can for the cam breathers installed yet, there is zero oil residue or splatter on or around them, it drives beautifully so it seems healthy. Just a ticky lifter, yet they're almost brand new oem genuine Nissan and haven't done many kms at all...
    • Have you confirmed the throttle body goes to WOT (and stays there) during the run?
    • I'm having a problem. I think it was mentioned above somewhere but can't see it.  I'm stuck in the cycle of, sand, filler, low spot again, put filler, sand, low spot again, now i put filler again and a thicker portion which seems to have helped but I got low spots in other areas. In the image. Circled in red thats where the original low spot was and the shape is the same as the red out line. I've more or less fixed that (still low spot up the top but now I have low spots where the green circled part is.  Is likely the issue that I didn't start with a course sand paper? I sanded the filler with 240 to reduce the risk of not going to far but maybe the issue is that I'm only taking off enough material to remove some of the filler but not the high spots. I now started sanding with 120 and I think I'm seeing a difference. I did fix one dent the other 2 are f**ked and seems like I made another low spot which is indicated by the furthest green circle on the left handside. Any thoughts and solutions?   Also second image. All of these rock chips, can they be filled in with primer or do i need to fill them all with filler/putty? So many rock chips on mine lol.
    • Well, I had an Edward Lee's special edition odo windback car/motor with a RB25DET S2 and I put down 372kW with a good amount of track abuse for 1.5 years before the ring lands decided it didn't want to stick around anymore 馃ゲ But probably didn't help I kept on smashing try limiter on the track and a few skid pans.
    • That is correct,  I have a forged RB25/30det NEO hiding away safely and I wanted to use the very rare greddy vct adj cam gear on this new setup and so I just used the whole thing on my s1 instead of pulling it appear because I'm lazy af 馃槄馃馃徏
  • Create New...