Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Newbie here. Just picked up my Stagea RS260 last week. I'm low on the learning curve, but working on it, so please bear with me.

I'm trying to get an idea of the type of kilometers you R33 drivers get out of a tank. I'm in the States, so I'm doing a lot of conversions over here. From what I've read, I have an 80 liter tank. That equates to about 21 US gallons. When the trip meter reads about 400 kms, the low fuel light will come on. It takes a little over 16 US gallons or ~65 liters to fill the tank at that point. If I'm doing the math right, I'd expect that I could get about 500-520 kms out of a tank. I know that there are a lot of variables here (e.g. turbos, driving habits, tire size, etc.), but what do you all see out of a tank of gas? What do you all see from a kpl or mpg perspective? Thanks in advance.

-Kip

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485109-how-many-kilometers-to-a-tank/
Share on other sites

Practical max capacity of the tank is about 65l, not 80l. Workshop manual says it is 72l but I've never got more than about 65 in.  Manual also says lamp comes on at 13l remaining

Stageas are pretty thirsty between their weight and old school turbo engine. I get about 13l/100 (noting mine is pretty modified including cams) on mostly highway driving, which is about line ball with our 5.6l Titan.

BTW, thanks for converting to metric to give our brains a chance

Hah, the best I've seen in my wagon and RB25 is 11.3l/100km or 20.8mpg and that was pretty much highway only. In the city it's around 17l/100km or 13.8mpg.

What I find interesting and didn't expect is that having fun and boosting it doesn't make much of a difference to the fuel consumption. Like doing a run through the twisties and it stays pretty much at highway levels. It's the start and stop city driving that kills it. Of course my driving is 90% city. Would rather be delivering tofu in the mountains but oh well.

  • Like 1

I have an R32 with RB25Neo....so much lighter car and somewhat more "fuel efficient" engine than the Stag/26 combo. I drive for economy most of the time, but will usually use whatever opportunities exist for a squirt. The best consumption I get is a flat 10. I have records of every tankful of fuel that I have used in the last 25 years. 10 is as good as it gets unless doing a long trip at <100 km/h.

The difference between 10s and 12s is a lot of km!

When my R33 GTST last ran, the best fuel economy it managed was 25L/100km...

Then again, lower RPMs weren't completely tuned, so could have got a LOT of economy back...

 

When it had the stock motor in it, going from memory it ran around the 13-14L/100km economy mixture of around town, and highway.

 

I rarely managed to drive more than half a tank with my brain in economy mode though. Economy mode in my brain was just a constant fight, and boost always won in the end :P

Thanks all. This is very helpful.

I'm pretty sure I have an old school tune on this thing that is dumping too much fuel into the mix. Between the soot I'm collecting on the rear bumper cover and the 13L/100km at freeway speeds (130-140 kph), this thing is too rich. I'm going to get this car off the ground this week and set out on a fact finding mission. Hoping I can start to understand the list of mods to start determining my next steps.

I did misrepresent a little though. The low fuel lamp comes on around 475 kms. That's about when it takes ~65 liters to top off. Also, totally screwed up my model designation. It's a 260RS, not RS260. Newbie fail!

-Kip

19 hours ago, Duncan said:

BTW, thanks for converting to metric to give our brains a chance

Hahaha. Totally appreciate that. It took me a good 15 mins to write all that up, what with checking conversion rates and plugging in the math. No promises I didn't totally bottle it(?).

3 hours ago, Kip said:

...I'm pretty sure I have an old school tune on this thing ...

Well, a place to start is the output of both o2 sensors. You will need to know which ECU you have, if stock you need a consult cable or otherwise whatever suits your ECU.  Depending if the ECU runs narrowband or wideband o2 sensors, check the output of the o2 sensors is as expected, if they are factory narrowband sensors it is reasonable to need replacement after 25+ years

However.....my bet is you won't find much wrong and won't make much difference; they are just thirsty

21 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

I have an R32 with RB25Neo....so much lighter car and somewhat more "fuel efficient" engine than the Stag/26 combo. I drive for economy most of the time, but will usually use whatever opportunities exist for a squirt. The best consumption I get is a flat 10. I have records of every tankful of fuel that I have used in the last 25 years. 10 is as good as it gets unless doing a long trip at <100 km/h.

The difference between 10s and 12s is a lot of km!

yeah i average about 10L/100 in my neo swapped 32 too at highway speeds, thats with the odd squirt aswell.

when driving around town and a lot of short trips it creeps up a fair bit though 😆

My shit box does about 12 to 13L/100km on 98RON with the AC on (can't drive with the windows down, catch can stinks 😭).

On E85 that goes to about 22L to 25L/100km.

On the track, I use about 20L every 5 to 6 laps (3.94km long), works about ~74L/100km lol..

 

 

  • Haha 2

Wakefield Park days were brutal, drive up with 5x jerry cans (over filled at 22L each) with 98RON in the tank.

First session drive off the 98RON, reacquaint myself then literally 5x sessions, 5x jerry cans. After that, stop by the BP in town to fill up on 98RON and run whatever mix and drive home.

Here's a business ideal, open up a petrol station near by with E85 once One Raceway opens up. Looks like with the new facilities, there will be good traffic.

17 hours ago, Duncan said:

Well, a place to start is the output of both o2 sensors. You will need to know which ECU you have, if stock you need a consult cable or otherwise whatever suits your ECU.  Depending if the ECU runs narrowband or wideband o2 sensors, check the output of the o2 sensors is as expected, if they are factory narrowband sensors it is reasonable to need replacement after 25+ years

However.....my bet is you won't find much wrong and won't make much difference; they are just thirsty

Good plan. I usually change out O2 sensors on new-to-me cars. I see them as wear items that most people don't deal with. But yeah, I was prepared for a thirsty car. It's a porker and has the aerodynamics of a brick.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A little follow up here on the ceramic coating.  We've had storms galore here and I've done a few ks, enough to gross them up  Consensus is that they didn't get as dirty as usual, the coating definitely repelled a little of the dirt and I think they kinda snowball. They get a little dirty and then they get dirty faster which makes sense. Cleaning them regularly would allow them to protect better.  Cleaning was a breeze. I tried first to just hose them off which, unsurprisingly, did nothing. But, making the wheels wet and then just wiping them over with a used but clean microfibre cloth was all that was required. I didn't need any cleaner at all, just water and a cloth. The wheels look amazing again.
    • Gave her a nice wash today and took extra time to clean off the tree sap and tar and crap. We have a usable garage now so she'll stay cleaner longer. Took a few snaps in some nice light afterwards.   
    • OK, solid mount Z1 diff brace is in, pretty straightforward, it picks up 3 diff hat bolts and ties them to 2 support bolts on the subframe. Pretty sure someone else on here said they had reduced axle tramp with this but mine was already pretty good for smooth wheelspin, and still is....will see you this goes over time and whether I end up with a broken rear diff hat
    • Ah yes, but the part in my hand was actually painted and fitted by me! I knew any front lip was likely to be sacrificial but I've had to fix it twice already... by the time I buy a fibreglass fixing kit, sort out sandpaper blocks, buy some fibreglass filler, body bog, spend the time and effort for a 'Greg' result... a new one being $290 seems like it's the better way to go and spray that with bedliner/raptor coat and we're all pretty again.. Would have preferred it last more than a month though. Them's the breaks I suppose.
    • I find it funny that the USA is finding out all this really really weird stuff, and people from the USA are coming here treating it like gospel, yet, all the info on solving those issues is here on these forums for the last 15 odd years... Also, I know how much heat it takes to ignite the hood lining of an R33 skyline. I worked it out myself... It also took a LOT of time, and heat for it to do it... Big single, and I needed to drive the car, so retarded the timing off to "protect it". Yeah, that was a bad move for cruising on a freeway with only 15 degrees of timing on it. That was a lesson I learned around 2009. So that's over 15 odd years ago. Aligning water and oil, that's identical for any turbo engine, it's not Japanese specific. If a shop doesn't know how to make sure the core is rotated the right way, then they shouldn't be touching any turbo engine. That's not a matter of "We haven't had Skylines for that long here"...
×
×
  • Create New...