Jump to content
SAU Community

Mobil 1 v Motul engine oils.


P1E
 Share

Recommended Posts

i use the chrono 300V 10W-40

expensive but worth it, do it every 5000kms

its good stuff, each time i change the first time i drive it again it seems to rev more freely.

not as in every time my motor get better but at each change, it feels better than it did just before the change.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 83
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Just on that,

Is there anything wrong or can go wrong with putting thin oil (such as 5W) after having 10W and even 20W at previous services? apperntly it depends on how many clicks ur cars done. Mine has done like 80K's and i was thinking of putting 10W motul, but when i went to buy it, they didnt have any left and the guy at the store (autobarn) (who also apperntly has a skyline) suggested that there is nothing wrong with putting 5W motul. Anyways ive put it in and 2 weeks later the car is going better then ever before. But im still paranoid that im doing damage to the engine by putting sucha thin oil., when the guy who used to service my car put in 20W. (i did the service myself this time).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5W-40 and 10W-40 oil are the exact same thickness when hot. The only difference is the former is thinner when cold. But both of them get thinner as it warms up. So if the 5W-40 oil is thicker when cold than the 10W-40 is when hot, there's not much chance it's going to do damage to your engine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i see, thanks for that info mate. appreciate it. will goto bed a lil easier. Jus that this morning when i was driving to uni, the car somehow jus wouldnt go past 3000 revs even when i put my foot down. But i could see the boost meter work fine, it was as if the handbrake was on real tight or soemthing, but once i shut the car off and re started it, everything seemed fine. I thought maybe it was soemthing to do with the oil. But it all seems fine now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK I'm here.

My opinion of Mobil 1....I've seen the oil analysis reports and it always has a worrying quantity of large particulates, therefore I will never use it again. .

Did you know some oils actually have very fine metal particles in to improve the protection factor. Copper is one of them I can't remember the rest. Mobil 1 is one of those oils which contain many micro metal particals. So when you get an oil analysis report back you will probably go, WTF I thought this was good oil. So the best way to test your oil is to take a base sample from the bottle and compare it your sample. You should get a very good report from Mobil 1 atleast. My friend used to be a oil tester he found mobil 1 to be one of the best oil he had tested.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Talking to the Aust distributor of Redline he said that Redline and Mobil have an additive that allows the oil to be run at lower pressure and it will boil at higher temp (700 vs 400) and so will last longer. 25000km per oil change for the turbo on track.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you know some oils actually have very fine metal particles in to improve the protection factor. Copper is one of them I can't remember the rest. Mobil 1 is one of those oils which contain many micro metal particals. So when you get an oil analysis report back you will probably go, WTF I thought this was good oil. So the best way to test your oil is to take a base sample from the bottle and compare it your sample. You should get a very good report from Mobil 1 atleast. My friend used to be a oil tester he found mobil 1 to be one of the best oil he had tested.

Thats a crock! Ive seen plenty of fresh oil analysis samples of mobil 1 and none of them contain any metals in there at all (let alone other oils!). You might be confused with Molybdenum (MoDTC) or something else.

But M1 does the job quite nicely in 95% of cars. For the hardcore racers out there, Motul 300V would be more suitable.

Also 25,000kms is too long interval for Redline. Thats just marketing hype, espeically in a turbo car. The oil will be loaded with fuel and blow by contaminants and the oils TBN reserve will be dangerously low. Your best to change it out at a maximum of 15,000ks regardless.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats a crock! Ive seen plenty of fresh oil analysis samples of mobil 1 and none of them contain any metals in there at all (let alone other oils!). You might be confused with Molybdenum (MoDTC) or something else.

well is a base sample of mobil 1. Sorry guys it does not contain copper but it does contain iron... As you can see there is a lot of other stuff in there.

Oil Miles 0

Aluminum 0

Chromium 0

Iron 2

Copper 0

Lead 0

Tin 0

Molybdenum 68

Nickel 0

Manganese 0

Silver 0

Titanium 0

Potassium 0

Boron 120

Silicon 4

Sodium 7

Calcium 2649

Magnesium 18

Phosphorus 737

Zinc 819

Barium 0

Viscosity 60.3

Flashpoint 430

Fuel <0.5%

Antifreeze 0%

Water 0%

Insolubles Trace

TBN (old) 15.5

TBN (new)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That 2 ppm is either a lab error or contamination. It certianly isnt of a high enough to be doing anything if it ever was some additive (like Borates and Zn in ZDDP for anitwear protection, Ca for detergency, Mo for secondary AW protection/friction modifier etc). Go check out bobistheoilguy.com forums for all the virgin oil analysis samples you ever have wanted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well is a base sample of mobil 1. Sorry guys it does not contain copper but it does contain iron... As you can see there is a lot of other stuff in there.

Oil Miles 0

Aluminum 0

Chromium 0

Iron 2

Copper 0

Lead 0

Tin 0

Molybdenum 68

Nickel 0

Manganese 0

Silver 0

Titanium 0

Potassium 0

Boron 120

Silicon 4

Sodium 7

Calcium 2649

Magnesium 18

Phosphorus 737

Zinc 819

Barium 0

Viscosity 60.3

Flashpoint 430

Fuel <0.5%

Antifreeze 0%

Water 0%

Insolubles Trace

TBN (old) 15.5

TBN (new)

hahaha good to see it contains plenty of Calcium for the strong healthy bones

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just out of interest. I just serviced my car. Put in a new filter and put in some motul 8100. The oil that came out was the worst oil I've ever .. ever.. seen come from a car. So bad I will be running this oil for a week and doing another oil change.

My question is if this is a good thing to do? Or should I run it for 10-20km then change it? In the week I plan to cycle this oil for it will probably do about 50-100km.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just out of interest. I just serviced my car. Put in a new filter and put in some motul 8100. The oil that came out was the worst oil I've ever .. ever.. seen come from a car. So bad I will be running this oil for a week and doing another oil change.

My question is if this is a good thing to do? Or should I run it for 10-20km then change it? In the week I plan to cycle this oil for it will probably do about 50-100km.

Dont waste such a good oil! If you want to give it a lil clean up, grab some black and gold stuff from the supermarket and run that for about 100ks. Then flush it out, and use the motul. Motul 8100 has some esters as the base oil, which are naturally very good detergents. So i'd say the motul is doing a good job keeping your engine clean.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do'h. I didn't want to waste it.. it just kind of happened.

We drained the oil and it was putrid - that was BEFORE the motul went in. The previous oil used was some german stuff UWS I think. So now that the motul is doing the cleanie-clean thing I imagine they'd be a helluva lotta gunk floating around and I'm scared something is going to get blocked up! :)

That's why I thought screw it I'll change it again just to be safe.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We drained the oil and it was putrid - that was BEFORE the motul went in. The previous oil used was some german stuff UWS I think. .

There a few places down in Melb that are using the OWS oil with claimed good results. I tried one sump load, but the more i thought about it the less i liked the idea of running the oil inmy engine. Not to say it isnt a good oil, it may be...i just dont want to be the one learning the hard way when there are other proven products on the shelves.

Right now im in two minds, Mobil 1 or the Castrol for the sump load for the trip back to Vic. Im thinking Castrol Formual R Synthetic 10W60 , but Mobil 1 has always served me well.

Question

What are your thoughts on doing 800kms at sustained 100km/h 3,200rpm freeway driving with some cheap oil like Castrol GTX or Mobil ? I just want to throw a fresh sump of oil and new filter at the engine for the drive back.

Im just looking for an ok quality oil that will help flush all the crap that has sat in galleries in the wrecker engine im putting a few kms on. Anyone know which oils have high levels of detergants?

As im running an ol cooler and will only be doing about 700-800kms on the oil i dont htink the heat or oil quality will affect it too much?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Roy,

I think the Motul range has a high level of detergents, whenever I used it, it came out black as the ace of spades, but the oil was still in good condition

Maybe try some of that, you can pick that up for a decent price

I'd be tempted to stick with Mobil 1, as its what you have trusted and know is a good oil

I'm sure it does a good job if cleaning the engine as much as the others

The other option would be to drive back on your existing oil, and when you get a few hundred kms from home whack in some of that engine oil flush treatment and then dump it when you get home? I have never used any, so I can't reccomend any particular brand

P.S good to see you caught up with a few of the SA boys and girls, sorry I was unable to make it. If you are free this week let me know and we can catch up for a quick beer or sometihng

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Roy,

I think the Motul range has a high level of detergents, whenever I used it, it came out black as the ace of spades, but the oil was still in good condition

Maybe try some of that, you can pick that up for a decent price

I'd be tempted to stick with Mobil 1, as its what you have trusted and know is a good oil

...

P.S good to see you caught up with a few of the SA boys and girls, sorry I was unable to make it. If you are free this week let me know and we can catch up for a quick beer or sometihng

Chris

It will come down to which is cheapest between the Mobil and Castrol, but for flushing the engine i may try one of the Motul semi synths or something.

Any night this week, inc Friday night:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

anything you could add to the cheap oil to give it a good clean???

steve

Ive seen some additives, but havent heard too much about them , good or bad. As im running a plain bearing turbo im just a bit paranoid about those additives. I probably have no grounds to be, its just one of those things id prefer to avoid.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am impressed with all this level of adjustment. I didn't expect all this possibility
    • Correct.  In the case of the 500kw dyno plot I showed you the car actually runs two boost control solenoids for boost control and a 5psi wastegate spring.  It allows me to control how much boost pressure is applied to both sides of the wastegate valve at any point and fairly accurately control boost target as a result. I've tuned it so that it's able to target anywhere from 5psi to 25psi depending on what's needed.  The target tables I've set up in that car are Gear vs RPM, so every gear has potential for a different boost (and torque) curve.   First and second gear have quite low boost targets, third gear actually has different target boost all the way through the rpm range as it's a stock RB25 gearbox - the boost targets have been chosen to maintain a peak of 600nm (what the owner has set as the maximum torque he's happy with putting through the stock 3rd gear) but it carries that to the rev limiter.   The boost curve to achieve that is something of a ramp up, then hold, then ramp up again and the power curve looks more like a flat line haha.  
    • so you can decrease or increase the boost depending on the diet as you wish?     by acting on the wastegate?
    • That's torque and power, it's all from a single run.  The boost curve is "held back" from it's peak target in the 3500rpm to 5000rpm range from memory, so it ramps hard to something like 18psi then climbs more progressively to 23psi nearer 5000rpm.   It makes the torque (and power) ramp more "natural" and less hard on parts and traction, it doesn't feel artificially held back.   
    • Here's the torque curves from the car I ramped boost up later in the rpm to allow a slightly wider useful power curve - the power curve is a bit weird shaped also thanks to the TVIS (or whatever they call it with the 4EFTE in this Starlet) which changes the volume of the intake manifold throughout the rpm range, but you can see that the green power curve actually holds later on with the extra boost... but looks almost more like the kind of thing you'd expect from a cam or exhaust change
×
×
  • Create New...