Mobil 1 v Motul engine oils.

[P1E]

My car has Mobil 1 engine oil in it currently, and it's time to change it. When I went to autObarn to pick up a container of Mobil 1, they recommended getting Motul instead -- which seemed strange, because it was $5.00 cheaper. So, what's the go? If I'm already using Mobil 1, is it okay to change?

[meshmesh]

$5 cheaper? Was it the motul ~8100 / 4100 or something? I pay around $45 for 2litres for the Motul 300V 10-40.. and I need three tin ~each service

[Bobjones]

Mobil 1 is shit...

I just rebuilt my engine cause of full synthetic Mobil 1 crap...

[Zahos]

Mobil 1 is shit...

I just rebuilt my engine cause of full synthetic Mobil 1 crap...

could you elaborate on that?

[P1E]

I don't really know, it was Motul something 5-something or something?

$60.00 for 5L, as opposed to $65.00 for Mobil 1.

[Bobjones]

Ok,

I recently (as of Friday) got my car back after a rebuild that was caused by the oil rings collapsing.

The engine builder has put it down to full synthetic oil being too thin, and this would be the Mobil 1 that has been run in it since I got it...

Mobil 1 is not the ONLY contributing factor, the fact is that the original owner (as is the case with many Japanese) put FULL synthetic in the car whilst running it in, as apposed to the Nissan Semi from factory.

This is evident in the fact that the rings have NEVER bedded in properly, resulting in very evident original honing marks once the block was stripped.

This problem is NOT rare and it has been recommended to me by MANY well known engine builders to use a Semi-synthetic as apposed to a FULL synthetic, especially in my case with Chrome-Moly rings.

Thus I would HIGHLY recommend the Motul 4100 turbolight, I have only seen proof in one RB engine that this is good oil and that is an RB20. Being similar to an RB25, I will be running this oil again (the last 2 changes before the engien build were done using this oil as a slight knock had started to develop from the rings collapsing causing slight piston slap and uneven wear on the bottom end bearings)

I have also used Motul products for years in various bikes and had awesome results.

[JAS-25T]

i use a 15-40 from motul and feel that each time i change the motor seems to rev more freely,

not as in easier and easier each time i change but easier than just before i changed

[Guest RedLineGTR]

Do your own test. I had done 5000km on each oil mobil 1 5-50w and motul 8100 5-40w the mobil 1 was black after the run and the motul had a rich dark goldish(similar to original colour but darker) colour to the oil which to me shows less wear on the engine itself.. imo..even shell helix ultra 5-40w had a nice colour after 5000km not like the black stuff that was left from the mobil 1 oil. My 2 cents.

[Guest two.06l]

i use a 15-40 from motul and feel that each time i change the motor seems to rev more freely,

not as in easier and easier each time i change but easier than just before i changed

castrol formula r.good enough for gtr700,good enough for me.

[P1E]

Picked up 5L of Motul 5W40 for $60.00, as well as some Redline Light Weight Shock Proof...

All going in on Thursday.

I was told that with Motul, you could get away with changing your oil less regularly... like every 10,000 KMs. True?

[benm]

I use Motul 4100 for regular daily driving and Motul 8100 when doing track work. I use it because Motul oils get fantastic reviews everywhere you read/talk, the previous owner used Motul and because the local Autobahn always has it in stock at a fair price ($49.95 / $69.95)

[Roy]

Ok,

The engine builder has put it down to full synthetic oil being too thin, and this would be the Mobil 1 that has been run in it since I got it...

This is evident in the fact that the rings have NEVER bedded in properly, resulting I recently (as of Friday) got my car back after a rebuild that was caused by the oil rings collapsing.in very evident original honing marks once the block was stripped.

This problem is NOT rare and it has been recommended to me by MANY well known engine builders to use a Semi-synthetic as apposed to a FULL synthetic, especially in my case with Chrome-Moly rings.

Not argiung, but you were using fully synthetic oil to run in your engine...then you blame the oil for you using the wrong oil after a rebuild? Once the rings are bedded you are right to use fully synthetic oils...right? Its just the running in process where you need to avoid fully synthetic oils liek Mobil1

I only ask as i have used Mobil 1 in my RB20 for 170,000kms, i drive the wheels off the thing with over 3,000kms done on circuits, ie big revs, high temps, sustained load...

With the head off my engine a visual inspection reveals the bores to be in good condition, i have good even compression, no blow by and no engine noise...what more can you ask for from an engine after 170,00kms (I bought the car with 70,000kms on it...the car has mobil badhe in engine bay so ia ssume it has always ran Mobil1) and i have always used Mobil 1. The cams that i took out of the engine were in better condition then the 50,000km GTR cams that went in.

In my opinion the tops of the lifters still looked to be in better then expected condition for the kms...perhaps Skylinegeoff can comment as to how the condition compared to his engine when he stripped it with far less kms on it.

So based on my expereinces of runing a std RB20 on Mobil 1 for almost 100,000kms over 4 years im not so quick to call it rubbish. Oh and the track work was all done without an oil cooler.

[GTRgeoff]

OK I'm here.

Roy's cam followers were lightly indented from the cam, but it had done 170K. noncommittal there I'm afraid.

My opinion of Mobil 1....I've seen the oil analysis reports and it always has a worrying quantity of large particulates, therefore I will never use it again. I'm taking the step to Castrol Formula R 10W60 to see how the oil pressure goes on the track. I don't have the means anymore to do oil analysis but I am searching for independent reports.

As far as full Synthetics go, as long as you run in with mineral, they are fine. A bad run in is early death - simple.

If an oil is black it's due to blowby, not metal particles. IF you can see them they sparkle.

I have no opinion of Motul other than to say it is too hard to find and too expensive compared to other good quality oils. I need some redline lightweight too but it's hard to get.

[rb20-calais]

I have used motul 4100 for my last 3 oil changes and it does the job great on a 200rwkw rb20, i will be changing oil with it this week, also just jap sydney it is $45 with a genuine nissan oil filter, BARGAIN!

Evan

[Roy]

Roy's cam followers were lightly indented from the cam, but it had done 170K. noncommittal there I'm afraid.

Did you inspect your head when rebuilding your engine. Just curious? Im happy with Mobil1 but if i have been cheating death then i want to change...

I remember reading an article on Mobil 1 ages ago that showed that Mobil 1 made the most power on th edyno (controlled conditions but im not fussed if the article claims a 1.2kw improvement over another oil) but most importantly to me had the best high temperature stability. its an old issue of Hot4s or Zoom

[knore]

Yeh motul engine rocks, get 300v Chrono

You know an oil is good when u actually feel the change it makes

[Bobjones]

Not argiung, but you were using fully synthetic oil to run in your engine...then you blame the oil for you using the wrong oil after a rebuild? Once the rings are bedded you are right to use fully synthetic oils...right? Its just the running in process where you need to avoid fully synthetic oils liek Mobil1

I only ask as i have used Mobil 1 in my RB20 for 170,000kms, i drive the wheels off the thing with over 3,000kms done on circuits, ie big revs, high temps, sustained load...  

With the head off my engine a visual inspection reveals the bores to be in good condition, i have good even compression, no blow by and no engine noise...what more can you ask for from an engine after 170,00kms (I bought the car with 70,000kms on it...the car has mobil badhe in engine bay so ia ssume it has always ran Mobil1) and i have always used Mobil 1. The cams that i took out of the engine were in better condition then the 50,000km GTR cams that went in.

In my opinion the tops of the lifters still looked to be in better then expected condition for the kms...perhaps Skylinegeoff can comment as to how the condition compared to his engine when he stripped it with far less kms on it.

So based on my expereinces of runing a std RB20 on Mobil 1 for almost 100,000kms over 4 years im not so quick to call it rubbish. Oh and the track work was all done without an oil cooler.

Obviously you MIS-read my post...

what sort of idiot would use synthetic to run in a motor...

well alot of workshops in Japan change the oil to full synthetic BEFORE the engine has time to run in...thus the problem I am talking about...

Assuming that a car that you don't know the history of to always use Mobil 1 is a bit presumptuous don't you think...

And I will be quick to call it rubbish...the fact is that the STANDARD rings and alot of aftermarket rings work better with semi synthetic. Also Clevite recommend a semi-synthetic for their bearings...

I have NEVER had a good experience with Mobil 1, and have built more engines than I can poke a stick at...the only time I will run a full synthetic is in a n/a multivalve engine...

Using Mobil 1 previously it was black as hell after 3,000, using the Motul it still looks like oil not sludge after 5,000...since its easy to get and have contacts at Coventry Auto...I can't see the problem

[Roy]

Assuming that a car that you don't know the history of to always use Mobil 1 is a bit presumptuous don't you think...

And I will be quick to call it rubbish...the fact is that the STANDARD rings and alot of aftermarket rings work better with semi synthetic.  Also Clevite recommend a semi-synthetic for their bearings...

Sorry about the typos in my post, when i got my car it had mobil stickers in the engine bay...on a car with no stickers, no guages boost control etc etc very stock vehicle i thought it strange that it had a Mobil sticker in the engine bay, so yeh whilst im assuming its not that long a stretch, i would bet money it used Mobil ubricants, but your right maybe not Mobil 1

All i know is what i have experienced with my engine, Fact 1 : 100,000kms with strictly Mobil 1. Fact 2: Over 3,000kms of track work with no oil cooler Fact 3: Std turbo came off car in perfect health at 150,000kms Fact 4: Engine has no blow by and good compression accross all cylinders and no engine noise

So call that rubbish, i aint trying to convince ppl of anything, just stating that my experiences havent been bad...sorry to read your have,

[GTRgeoff]

I thought Roy's head looked in fair condition (the car one......the other has played Rugby like mine) but ultimately it was the large particulate reports that scared me off.

I believe the tests were done with a NA car and while that may be fine for a few extra HP, I was not willing to push for that couple of HP with oil when one extra psi would do. It (Mobil1) achieves the extra power by being thinner (0W20) at operating temp, and oil effectiveness is based on the oil viscosity (among a raft of other considerations including high temp stability). I am willing to run extra viscosity and lose power for improved pressure at track temperature. The stuff was literally like water, as is Havoline Synthetic which I am getting rid of tomorrow.

The only way Mobil1 can have the large particualtes reported is by metal wear. All oil will show some metal through wear, but less and smaller is critical.

[Amaru]

I have a new standard GTR oil pump on my car, and had the engine rebuilt 18,000kms ago. After running it in, it ran Mobil 1 for 15,000kms of those 18,000 and all I can say is im glad I changed. The car could not hold oil pressure with Mobil 1, always dropping down to 1 bar on idle (which freaked me a bit). Also on idle there was alot of valve train noise. Changed to Motul 300V and have only done 2,000kms on it, but it seems better. Idle oil pressure while still low to begin with is now back up to 2 bar at idle, and theres still valve train noise (as there is on all GTR's) but not quite as much.

One thing I have noticed though, and I give credit to Mobil 1 for is, without an oil cooler after some normal driving through the city, Mobil 1 never rose above around 80 degrees temp. The motul doing the same sort of driving (and its even colder here now than when I had the mobil 1 in) sits on 90 or slightly above.

But as a whole, I wont be using Mobil 1 ever again. Bad idle oil pressure, it also started burning off after 4000kms (which a few other GTR owners I know report the same problem) which is apparantly due to its chemical structure breaking down earlier compared to other oils, and when drained after 4000kms it came out semi thick and sludgy. Didnt install me with confidence after seeing it come out.