Mobil 1 v Motul engine oils.

[Roy]

Do you know where to put your hands on that oil report. I recalled where i read the Mobil 1 thing, it was an old Fast 4s and it was the Mobil 0-20W...and an NA Integra. Is it possible we are talkig about the same review? I never used the 0-20W, i think the one i use is 10-50w

Fair call on the black sludge thing though, but i always attributed that to the fact that i had 99% always done a track day per 5,000kms ?!?!?

And never noticed the oil pressure problem...but ive heard enough that i may start to use the Castrol...

Anyone have any thoughts on OWS?

[GTRgeoff]

I've thrown out a lot of the old FFR and Zoom mags but I'll scratch around later. Have to go buy pineapples for the track day. The oil reports are usually online somewhere.

[mitchy]

The reason Mobil 1 is black when it comes out of your engine is that is has been cleaning carbon and blow-by buildup, like it is supposed to. I work for Mercedes Benz, who use mobil one in all their engines (including the 370kw twin turbo V12) and they never have a problem with their engines at all.

On the same note, if you have an older engine which has been running for 150,000 kms or more, and is used to running with the carbon buildup, do NOT run mobil one. It will clean the engine down, like it is supposed to, but then the motor will blow smoke and use oil because the clearances are too large in the engine now, courtesy of the carbon being cleaned away.

I have seen engines requiring rebuilds because of this (hyundai excel, and toyota corolla).

Mobil one is a good oil, but it needs to be used for the lifetime of the engine for it to work properly.

I will not be running it in my GTR when it lands for these reasons, but if i rebuild the engine, then i will run mobil 1 after the running in period.

Just my 2 cents

[Roy]

The reason Mobil 1 is black when it comes out of your engine is that is has been cleaning carbon and blow-by buildup, like it is supposed to. I work for Mercedes Benz, who use mobil one in all their engines (including the 370kw twin turbo V12) and they never have a problem with their engines at all.  

On the same note, if you have an older engine which has been running for 150,000 kms or more, and is used to running with the carbon buildup, do NOT run mobil one. It will clean the engine down, like it is supposed to, but then the motor will blow smoke and use oil because the clearances are too large in the engine now, courtesy of the carbon being cleaned away.  

I have seen engines requiring rebuilds because of this (hyundai excel, and toyota corolla).

Mobil one is a good oil, but it needs to be used for the lifetime of the engine for it to work properly.

I will not be running it in my GTR when it lands for these reasons, but if i rebuild the engine, then i will run mobil 1 after the running in period.

Just my 2 cents  

Ill pay those 2c too cause that makes sense. My engine had very little carbon build up which is the reason it looked so clean. Hmmm maybe i wont switch to Castrol...the plot thickens

[Bobjones]

The reason Mobil 1 is black when it comes out of your engine is that is has been cleaning carbon and blow-by buildup, like it is supposed to. I work for Mercedes Benz, who use mobil one in all their engines (including the 370kw twin turbo V12) and they never have a problem with their engines at all.  

On the same note, if you have an older engine which has been running for 150,000 kms or more, and is used to running with the carbon buildup, do NOT run mobil one. It will clean the engine down, like it is supposed to, but then the motor will blow smoke and use oil because the clearances are too large in the engine now, courtesy of the carbon being cleaned away.  

I have seen engines requiring rebuilds because of this (hyundai excel, and toyota corolla).

Mobil one is a good oil, but it needs to be used for the lifetime of the engine for it to work properly.

I will not be running it in my GTR when it lands for these reasons, but if i rebuild the engine, then i will run mobil 1 after the running in period.

Just my 2 cents  

That is good to a point...the fact is that it depends on clearances age of engine etc etc etc. you cannot compare a Nissan RB25 to a Mercedes...even the base crap cause the materials uses are different.

Different oils should be used for different situations. I woul dput Mobil 1 in a Honda, but never a turbo car out of Japan.

With the Mobil 1 then it was used after the car had done 30,000, I changed to Motul at about 50,000 and when the engine was stripped, it was NOT clean...and shit loads of blow by (some of which i have said is due to the crap running in by the original owner). I have seen engines using Castrol crap oil that have come out cleaner and with less blow by...

So there is no way you can tell me that the Mobil 1 in 20,000 "cleaned" the carbon deposits on an engine that had done 30,000. the fact is that it always came out balck and crap and the Motul never did, the car ran better, held oil pressure better etc etc...

I will stick to the 10w-40 Motul Semi that was recommended to me...not cause my cousins, uncles aunts left nut said so, but because this is from people that BUILD engines. Each to there own...

[JimX]

And never noticed the oil pressure problem...but ive heard enough that i may start to use the Castrol...

Anyone have any thoughts on OWS?

I used Castrol Formula R, both 5W-30 and 10W-60 for around 15000km. After that I switched to Motul 8100, and ended up with a really dirty exhaust (evident on my rear bar) and a blocked/collapsed lifter requiring a full engine flush. You could say that the 8100 was to blame here, but really it was the Castrol and whatever crap oil the previous owners had used. The Castrol should have at least done a semi-decent job of cleaning out the engine internals but it either did nothing or added to the buildup of scum. So when I put the high detergent 8100 in, it caused all the sludge to come loose and block a lifter.

Ran one sumpful of Fuchs after that, and I'm now back to 8100 and the exhaust is much much cleaner. I don't expect anything to become blocked again.

[Stirlo_GTR]

I have just run a bottle of Mobil1 through my R32 GTR and have found that like amaru, I have lost oil pressue residing at 1 bar, some times below, before the change the engine ran beautifully making some other GTR owners very gealous.

I have an ACR Oil cooler and have had to block it off and the oil would never get to temp.

I also have more engine noise and rougher idle. I test'd the oil level today and the level was norm, down a touch, but the oil is back as night.

I will be changing oil tomorrow without a view to retuning to my faithfull mobil 1 (was a subaru owner before and MOBIL 1 is the only oil for them), I have been recommended to try Penzoil 10-30, but failing that I will go to Motul or castrol.

any experiances with Penzoil?

[Kinks]

But as a whole, I wont be using Mobil 1 ever again. Bad idle oil pressure, it also started burning off after 4000kms (which a few other GTR owners I know report the same problem) which is apparantly due to its chemical structure breaking down earlier compared to other oils, and when drained after 4000kms it came out semi thick and sludgy. Didnt install me with confidence after seeing it come out.

I had the same issue in our SR20DE pulsar. mobil 1 looked good and hadn't used much, then i drove it around for a few weeks and then did an old pac run, next time the oil was really dark, and just about down to the low mark. the speed with which it changed did not please me at all, one minute it was a light gold/brown colour and full and the next it looked tired and empty. been using motul 8100 since then, and I use motul in my R31 as well. normally change between 3000 and 5000 (when i feel like it) and the motul comes out looking good. the previous owner used to change mobil 1 every 3000km which would be a decent drain interval for that oil. however, i prefer to use something a little better.

have also used castrol synth r 10W60 on the track and it does hold oil pressure better in general but for city driving i prefer to use a thinner oil.

[Roy]

Do we know if oil colour means anything. I would love my oil to come out the same colour it goes in, but does that really mean anything....only asking?

[JimX]

Oil is supposed to go dark as it absorbs soot created in the combustion chambers. Personally I haven't noticed any difference in colour in any oil that I've drained over the years. It's always been black in the drip tray (the drip tray is also black so that might influence the colour I see), but on the dipstick you can see that it's still golden brown at the edges. I've never been able to tell if one type of oil is better than another based on how quickly it turns black.

[Kinks]

Dark oil is doing its job - holding particles in suspension. If you drive 10,000km on an oil and it comes out looking like new then it must be a shit oil. Your engine will probably rattle to a halt soon if that happens

However if the oil gets REALLY dirty REALLY quickly then something else is going on that shouldn't be.

[Bobjones]

Dark oil is doing its job - holding particles in suspension.  If you drive 10,000km on an oil and it comes out looking like new then it must be a shit oil.  Your engine will probably rattle to a halt soon if that happens

However if the oil gets REALLY dirty REALLY quickly then something else is going on that shouldn't be.

It also depends on the dtergent level...this will influence how well it works...or should I say cleans the engine. The quality of oil shows how it lubricates with less metalic particles, as for the soot/carbon this should be absorbed somewhat by the filter...the rest of the oild should suspend it...

[nedb]

What about the RedLine Oil compared to Motul. I've been using Motul for a couple of years now on my NAc ars and also on the RB20det. I've been very happy with it. I did try a few other ones but always came back to Motul. So far i haven't tried the Redline but heard all the best about it. It is a bit pricey.

[GTRgeoff]

Redline is pricey. I just spent $220 on enough for the gearbox and the diff. Ouch. The lightweight shockproof has certainly helped the gearbox. Just have to make time to do the diff before Phillip Island Sunday.

[nedb]

I haven't changed my gear or diff oil yes since i bought my R32 so its well overdue. What would you recommend? The gearbox is Auto and the car is pretty stockish at the moment but a few things will change in the upcomming months. So Motul? ... or something else?

[Abo Bob]

Redline. I just changed auto and diff with reasonable results. Diff definitely worth putting lightweight shockproof.

[GTRgeoff]

Pretty happy so far with the improvement in the gearbox. Cheaper than a rebuild. For manuals you need 5 quarts of the blue lightweight shockproof.

I went with the SAE 80W120 for the diff due to the mount of racing I do and the current tired state of the diff. The diff needs 2 quarts to do the job.

For the Auto you need to use an authorised service centre due to the need to flush out the old oil in the box and torque converter. Try the website http://www.redlineoil.com.au

[kingscorp]

I run 0w/20 in my car, runs well, more power, better cooling, better fuel economy!

Drain it every 12500km's

ASHLY

[dineth]

Hey guys, jus changed my oil today and for the first time tried Motul 8100 after reading some threads on here. I must say, almost immideitly i noticed a huge difference. (i used to use penrite) The accelration, idle and 1st gear was so much smoother then ever before. Even though its a bit pricey (well compared to most of the shelf oils), i think its worth it cos a full tank of premium unleaded costs about the same amount as a 5L bottle of 8100. I dont think i wil put anything else but 8100 from now on. Anyways thats my 2c on how my R33 gtst goes on 8100.

[Chris32]

Just thought I'd add my experience

When I bought my car it had just been serviced with Nissan 7.5-30W, and I used it for a few changes, the car was stock at the time

I switched to Mobil 1, and found it ok, and used it for around 6 months. The car was serviced and they used Fuchs 5-50W, which felt a little better than the Mobil 1, but went thin really quickly and oil pressure was unstable

I then switched to Motul 8100, I used this for about a year, it was pretty good, the oil pressure gauge would be lower than normal, but the stock gauge is hardly reliable

I recently switched back to Mobil 1, mainly becasue of the fact the store I went to ran out of Motul at the time.

To be honest, it felt heaps better, it even idles better (dunno why but it does) I just changed it the other week, again for Mobil 1 and I couldn't be happier.

The Mobil 1 I used was the 5-50W not the really thin stuff.

I'd say, from my what I have found, the Mobil 1 seems to be the better.

Haven't tried the 300V Chrono Motul stuff, this is supposed to be better again

Chris