Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i went to my machanic the other day as i've been noticing a strong fuel smell from my car, he noticed it as well and before asking me what petrol i use he says you use BP ultimate don't you, he then told me that theres been a few problems with the fuel and the seals on fuel pumps, a few people using the fuel have had this problem and have had to replace fuel pumps but it not being covered by insurance due to "contaminated fuel" just seeing if anyone has heard of this latley??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48512-bp-ultimate-problems/
Share on other sites

Check that the fuel cap is secure, and that there are no leaks near or around. Also jack up the car and check underneath where the tank is for any leaks, could just be a small leak that can easily be plugged up...

you wouldnt want that to catch alight from the exhaust.....big dramas....

Let us know what you find out..

I work at Bp shepparton here in VIC and our BP ultimate is far better than those that are in the city, the reason you get bad fuel is that if you live in urban areas , the simple answer is more people use fuel and with a 5000 litre fuel tank the last 1000 is basically dregs take my advice fill up in the early hours of the morning when they've just filled the tanks or fill up in stations not used as much, those out of the way bastard truck stops

Patchy, I am sure there is some truth in what you say, but I would be surprised if 20% of a tanks contents could be considered to be "dregs". If station tanks, pumps and filters are properly maintained, this should not be an issue. Clearly it is with some, though.

Cheers.

it would not be 20% of tanks if you considered that premium, unleaded and diesel all house about 35,000 litres. Bp ultimate is the smallest tank and about those filters i have been working at bp for over 12 months and have never seen any cleaning done to the tanks or the filters so unless there self cleaning... How clean is your petrol?

i have managed a servo, and let me ask you, have you ever seen any big pumping trucks flushing the tanks out to clean them, i have never heard of it being done at quix(mobil) EVER. never personally seen or heard of them being cleaned and at quix as long as the water is below 1000L it is deemed clean, reassuring huh?

Hi guys. I have a little knowledge of refineries and the chemistry involved. My understanding is that the BP Ultimate is refined as a 98 octane fuel, which means that the crude cut used as the base fuel is at or near 98 octane. Whereas the Shell Optimax is a base 95 octane fuel (or maybe 96), which then has various additives mixed in to boost the octane level. This way, Shell save on refining costs, but have more additive costs - the refining costs will be the bigger of the two!

Any gasoline fuel, if left for a long period in an atmospheric tank (which all station tanks are), will "weather" - i.e. they will gradually lose the more volatile components (it's all a matter of vapour pressure and the tank "breathing"through the vent). This will generally cause the octane of the weathered fuel to be reduced.

Hope this helps.

Cheers.

Some early R32 and R33 Skylines arn't preimum fuel cars and therefore you shouldn't be using preuim fuel anyway, if your Skyline is after 1995 then they will all be preimum only cars, where as before that it's a mix so you should look up your manual that check that out.

Some unleaded cars will have problems with preimum fuels as they will burn out filters etc quicker than normal.

Also about the fuel:

BP Utimate and mobil Vortex, are 98% ron fuel they don't have any cleaners in them.

Shell optimax is 98% ron fuel but with a cleaner in it, so it will help to clean out your fuel system.

I've run Shell optimax in my own unleaded car it ran much better but Shell state that you shouldn't use premium fuels in unleads more more than once or twice in a month as it can cause problems for the engine.

Also had a WRX and ran all 3 types of fuel through it and the Shell fuel ended being the best out of the three providing much more power and resposne.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
    • That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
    • It's about time I start work on my sun tan. So I knocked up a few parts that will all combine together to become my new power steering reservoir. Now just to produce an abundance of UV and IR rays while melting a heap of bits of alu to become one... Well, that's after I put one more hole in it for the return line to plumb to. It likely won't be this weekend, as Sunday I'm meant to be in doing some last minute stuff to the AMG race car, and the weekend after will be filled with non my Skyline stuff, followed by Bathurst 6 hour. So I don't expect to get to melt metal for at least 3 weeks.   I also managed to stuff up and start cutting the hole for the res to pump pipe on the wrong side of the line... It means instead of the lines being nice and tight against the inner guard, they'll be out off the guard.    The size of it means I should end up with about 1.8L of power steering fluid, and still have space for another half a litre before it reaches the overflow/breather. This is wayyyyyyy more capacity than factory, which should help keep Powersteer oil temps lower, and the design hopefully allows it to prevent any aerated oil being able to makes its way down to the bottom as it'll have a couple of baffles and some hopeful trickery to force air bubbles away from the bottom.
×
×
  • Create New...