Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i went to my machanic the other day as i've been noticing a strong fuel smell from my car, he noticed it as well and before asking me what petrol i use he says you use BP ultimate don't you, he then told me that theres been a few problems with the fuel and the seals on fuel pumps, a few people using the fuel have had this problem and have had to replace fuel pumps but it not being covered by insurance due to "contaminated fuel" just seeing if anyone has heard of this latley??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48512-bp-ultimate-problems/
Share on other sites

Check that the fuel cap is secure, and that there are no leaks near or around. Also jack up the car and check underneath where the tank is for any leaks, could just be a small leak that can easily be plugged up...

you wouldnt want that to catch alight from the exhaust.....big dramas....

Let us know what you find out..

I work at Bp shepparton here in VIC and our BP ultimate is far better than those that are in the city, the reason you get bad fuel is that if you live in urban areas , the simple answer is more people use fuel and with a 5000 litre fuel tank the last 1000 is basically dregs take my advice fill up in the early hours of the morning when they've just filled the tanks or fill up in stations not used as much, those out of the way bastard truck stops

Patchy, I am sure there is some truth in what you say, but I would be surprised if 20% of a tanks contents could be considered to be "dregs". If station tanks, pumps and filters are properly maintained, this should not be an issue. Clearly it is with some, though.

Cheers.

it would not be 20% of tanks if you considered that premium, unleaded and diesel all house about 35,000 litres. Bp ultimate is the smallest tank and about those filters i have been working at bp for over 12 months and have never seen any cleaning done to the tanks or the filters so unless there self cleaning... How clean is your petrol?

i have managed a servo, and let me ask you, have you ever seen any big pumping trucks flushing the tanks out to clean them, i have never heard of it being done at quix(mobil) EVER. never personally seen or heard of them being cleaned and at quix as long as the water is below 1000L it is deemed clean, reassuring huh?

Hi guys. I have a little knowledge of refineries and the chemistry involved. My understanding is that the BP Ultimate is refined as a 98 octane fuel, which means that the crude cut used as the base fuel is at or near 98 octane. Whereas the Shell Optimax is a base 95 octane fuel (or maybe 96), which then has various additives mixed in to boost the octane level. This way, Shell save on refining costs, but have more additive costs - the refining costs will be the bigger of the two!

Any gasoline fuel, if left for a long period in an atmospheric tank (which all station tanks are), will "weather" - i.e. they will gradually lose the more volatile components (it's all a matter of vapour pressure and the tank "breathing"through the vent). This will generally cause the octane of the weathered fuel to be reduced.

Hope this helps.

Cheers.

Some early R32 and R33 Skylines arn't preimum fuel cars and therefore you shouldn't be using preuim fuel anyway, if your Skyline is after 1995 then they will all be preimum only cars, where as before that it's a mix so you should look up your manual that check that out.

Some unleaded cars will have problems with preimum fuels as they will burn out filters etc quicker than normal.

Also about the fuel:

BP Utimate and mobil Vortex, are 98% ron fuel they don't have any cleaners in them.

Shell optimax is 98% ron fuel but with a cleaner in it, so it will help to clean out your fuel system.

I've run Shell optimax in my own unleaded car it ran much better but Shell state that you shouldn't use premium fuels in unleads more more than once or twice in a month as it can cause problems for the engine.

Also had a WRX and ran all 3 types of fuel through it and the Shell fuel ended being the best out of the three providing much more power and resposne.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
    • House of Fatz dry dock needs a clean sadly one of the long time stables is leaving this weekend   see ya mr purple
    • Hence why I've only modified my car into a pure daily. Everything has to remain reliable & roadworthy, while providing value and grin factor. It also must not be handcrafted to the extent that the car will be immovable if something breaks because you cannot get or make a replacement to at least limp around with.
×
×
  • Create New...