Shudder & Rear wheels binding

[SLIXK]

So basically my car randomly starts binding asif I have my centre diff locked, It seems to get triggered the most when I’m parking (back & fourths with sharp steering) or turning sharp really slowly, or sometimes it’s just happens when I’m driving, so when this “lock” feeling is active my car shudders when accelerating asif the car is still locked in awd. I’ve had this issue ever since I have had the car tuned with a GTR 33 box, I’ve rebuilt gearbox, replace clutch packs with hood condition ones, reconditioned prop shaft, full hard race suspension. My car used to be auto also but diffs are still the same. I’m using haltech elite 2500 with the harness adapter. I used a RWD TPS, would that affect the signal to the atessa in anyway? 
 

[joshuaho96]

8 hours ago, SLIXK said:

So basically my car randomly starts binding asif I have my centre diff locked, It seems to get triggered the most when I’m parking (back & fourths with sharp steering) or turning sharp really slowly, or sometimes it’s just happens when I’m driving, so when this “lock” feeling is active my car shudders when accelerating asif the car is still locked in awd. I’ve had this issue ever since I have had the car tuned with a GTR 33 box, I’ve rebuilt gearbox, replace clutch packs with hood condition ones, reconditioned prop shaft, full hard race suspension. My car used to be auto also but diffs are still the same. I’m using haltech elite 2500 with the harness adapter. I used a RWD TPS, would that affect the signal to the atessa in anyway? 
 

Does it go away if you disable the transfer case?

[SLIXK]

59 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

Does it go away if you disable the transfer case?

Yes, goes away when I pull the front shaft 

[RBW49N]

3 hours ago, SLIXK said:

Yes, goes away when I pull the front shaft 

Are tyre sizes the same?

[Duncan]

I remember Jetwreck had a similar problem with his M35, don't remember him ever getting to the bottom of it.

What do you mean you " had the car tuned with a GTR 33 box,". You don't list a car in your profile, is it a 33 GTR or something else?

And, is this the 4wd harness adapter you are talking about https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-038001-nissan-attesa-4wd-tps-adaptor/

And, what do you mean by a RWD TPS, what is it out of?

*edit* one more question....what is the rear diff?

[joshuaho96]

7 hours ago, SLIXK said:

Yes, goes away when I pull the front shaft 

It would be good to test what happens if you disconnect both the failsafe and main ETS solenoid on the actuator block. If it goes away then for some reason it's commanding AWD when it shouldn't. Which could mean your tires are unevenly worn. If it still binds also de-power the pump. If that fixes it then something is wrong with your actuator block leaking pump pressure when it shouldn't. If all of that doesn't work then it has to be your transfer case preload or something like that.

[RBW49N]

21 hours ago, Duncan said:

I remember Jetwreck had a similar problem with his M35, don't remember him ever getting to the bottom of it.

What do you mean you " had the car tuned with a GTR 33 box,". You don't list a car in your profile, is it a 33 GTR or something else?

And, is this the 4wd harness adapter you are talking about https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-038001-nissan-attesa-4wd-tps-adaptor/

And, what do you mean by a RWD TPS, what is it out of?

*edit* one more question....what is the rear diff?

I would assume S2 c34 awd with a FFP. Can’t run the S2 throttle body because they are very long and was probably an auto converted to manual.  I have a haltech plug and play harness and don’t run the attessa awd adapter. Maybe the output is configured incorrectly 

[Duncan]

Yeah I've got FFP on my manual converted s1 and the standard throttle and TPS were OK, and 4wd is working fine with the Link with no adapter (although, the shop may have done the famous "secret squirrel tweak")

[SLIXK]

On 12/17/2023 at 11:34 AM, RBW49N said:

Are tyre sizes the same?

Yes

[SLIXK]

On 12/17/2023 at 1:16 PM, Duncan said:

I remember Jetwreck had a similar problem with his M35, don't remember him ever getting to the bottom of it.

What do you mean you " had the car tuned with a GTR 33 box,". You don't list a car in your profile, is it a 33 GTR or something else?

And, is this the 4wd harness adapter you are talking about https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-038001-nissan-attesa-4wd-tps-adaptor/

And, what do you mean by a RWD TPS, what is it out of?

*edit* one more question....what is the rear diff?

I have a c34 rs4v , I have the plug play adapter harness so the 2500 elite plugs into the factory loom. Guy who tuned car mentioned that part you’ve listed when I told him about the shudder, but he ended up saying it’s built into the adapter harness.. unsure of diff but it should be factory, I’ve never changed it. Car came from Japan at 70xxx kms. TPS is out of a RWD stagea.

[SLIXK]

On 12/17/2023 at 6:23 PM, joshuaho96 said:

It would be good to test what happens if you disconnect both the failsafe and main ETS solenoid on the actuator block. If it goes away then for some reason it's commanding AWD when it shouldn't. Which could mean your tires are unevenly worn. If it still binds also de-power the pump. If that fixes it then something is wrong with your actuator block leaking pump pressure when it shouldn't. If all of that doesn't work then it has to be your transfer case preload or something like that.

Is the actuator block located on the gearbox ? My gearbox is recently rebuilt, replaced clutch packs with good condition ones also. 

[joshuaho96]

1 hour ago, SLIXK said:

Is the actuator block located on the gearbox ? My gearbox is recently rebuilt, replaced clutch packs with good condition ones also. 

Actuator block on the R33 is crammed opposite the exhaust under the steel trunk panel. On an R32 you can just pull the ATTESA fuses and it will deactivate the pump.

[SLIXK]

On 12/24/2023 at 1:21 PM, joshuaho96 said:

Actuator block on the R33 is crammed opposite the exhaust under the steel trunk panel. On an R32 you can just pull the ATTESA fuses and it will deactivate the pump.

This is my stagea with r33 gearbox, I just had the box rebuilt not long ago, but we have found out this part is leaking, could that cause the symptoms I’m having? 

[Duncan]

The part you have circled is the attessa actuator to transfer case flange. It is worth fixing the leak but that is unlikely to be your problem. pCH-90 of the r32 manual says to seal it with "recommended sealing fluid 518" which I understand is loctite 518

[joshuaho96]

1 hour ago, SLIXK said:

This is my stagea with r33 gearbox, I just had the box rebuilt not long ago, but we have found out this part is leaking, could that cause the symptoms I’m having? 

No, a leak if anything will just bleed off transfer case pressure which should lessen the symptoms rather than worsen it. The actuator block lives somewhere above the fuel tank or rear diff. Looks like this:

 

[SLIXK]

On 12/17/2023 at 1:16 PM, Duncan said:

I remember Jetwreck had a similar problem with his M35, don't remember him ever getting to the bottom of it.

What do you mean you " had the car tuned with a GTR 33 box,". You don't list a car in your profile, is it a 33 GTR or something else?

And, is this the 4wd harness adapter you are talking about https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-038001-nissan-attesa-4wd-tps-adaptor/

And, what do you mean by a RWD TPS, what is it out of?

*edit* one more question....what is the rear diff?

Factory diff as far as I know.. unless someone changed it in Japan 

Edited January 17, 2024 by SLIXK
Opps already answered this question

[SLIXK]

On 1/2/2024 at 4:15 PM, Duncan said:

The part you have circled is the attessa actuator to transfer case flange. It is worth fixing the leak but that is unlikely to be your problem. pCH-90 of the r32 manual says to seal it with "recommended sealing fluid 518" which I understand is loctite 518

Attessa actuator to transfer case flange fixed 

[SLIXK]

On 1/2/2024 at 4:53 PM, joshuaho96 said:

No, a leak if anything will just bleed off transfer case pressure which should lessen the symptoms rather than worsen it. The actuator block lives somewhere above the fuel tank or rear diff. Looks like this:

 

That’s above the rear diff I’m sure 

 

On 12/17/2023 at 6:23 PM, joshuaho96 said:

It would be good to test what happens if you disconnect both the failsafe and main ETS solenoid on the actuator block. If it goes away then for some reason it's commanding AWD when it shouldn't. Which could mean your tires are unevenly worn. If it still binds also de-power the pump. If that fixes it then something is wrong with your actuator block leaking pump pressure when it shouldn't. If all of that doesn't work then it has to be your transfer case preload or something like that.

Can I access the actuator to disconnect it without dropping the diff, and I’ve used 2 different set of wheels and it shakes and binds with both, and how can you de-power the pump, also if none of that works could my diff be getting stuck somehow? 

[SLIXK]

20 hours ago, SLIXK said:

Attessa actuator to transfer case flange fixed 

Nope, it’s leaking again. 

[joshuaho96]

On 1/17/2024 at 2:15 AM, SLIXK said:

That’s above the rear diff I’m sure 

 

Can I access the actuator to disconnect it without dropping the diff, and I’ve used 2 different set of wheels and it shakes and binds with both, and how can you de-power the pump, also if none of that works could my diff be getting stuck somehow? 

You probably can get to it without dropping the diff, it's just going to require some quality time. Wear good thick gloves and a long sleeved shirt that you don't mind getting ruined.