Jump to content
SAU Community

Having trouble bleeding ATTESA

blind_elk
 Share

Recommended Posts

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

I finally got round to purchasing the replacement solenoid for the ATTESA pump (refer my post in Vic section from April/2022).

So today I tried installing it - what a @#$% problem that is!. Gave up quickly, decided to see if simply bleeding ATTESA would help. Found a uTube video, watched, seemed simple enough. Had difficulty bleeding the rear nipple (can't swing a brake spanner up there), and had minimal fluid come out.

So, to front, disconnect clip, crack nipple, pump works for a bit, then stops. Keep cracking nipple, pump not working. (when disconnected, torque gauge goes 60% - is that right?)

So, anyone got a diagnosis? Is the whole ATTESA f*kced? Do I need to totally dismantle it and reassemble?

BTW, pic of my reservoir:

PC240034.thumb.JPG.0a70a10765c12e3e6cf82c863965bb1c.JPG

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485164-having-trouble-bleeding-attesa/
Share on other sites
joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
  On 23/12/2023 at 11:42 PM, blind_elk said:

I finally got round to purchasing the replacement solenoid for the ATTESA pump (refer my post in Vic section from April/2022).

So today I tried installing it - what a @#$% problem that is!. Gave up quickly, decided to see if simply bleeding ATTESA would help. Found a uTube video, watched, seemed simple enough. Had difficulty bleeding the rear nipple (can't swing a brake spanner up there), and had minimal fluid come out.

So, to front, disconnect clip, crack nipple, pump works for a bit, then stops. Keep cracking nipple, pump not working. (when disconnected, torque gauge goes 60% - is that right?)

So, anyone got a diagnosis? Is the whole ATTESA f*kced? Do I need to totally dismantle it and reassemble?

BTW, pic of my reservoir:

PC240034.thumb.JPG.0a70a10765c12e3e6cf82c863965bb1c.JPG

 

Expand  

The air gap in your reservoir at the bottom should not exceed 5mm. When the air bleed mode is set by unplugging the connector the pump should run to maintain a fixed target pressure. If it's not re-pressurizing after cracking the nipple for a second then something might be wrong. But if it holds pressure then it's probably fine.

  • 1 month later...
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well, finally got new solenoid fitted - no-one said anything about needing to drop the diff! Still getting code 18, which suggests its the pump that is rooted.

Anyone know if the pump is repairable / serviceable? Where I might find one (even to take apart to see how it works)?

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
  On 22/02/2024 at 5:34 AM, blind_elk said:

Well, finally got new solenoid fitted - no-one said anything about needing to drop the diff! Still getting code 18, which suggests its the pump that is rooted.

Anyone know if the pump is repairable / serviceable? Where I might find one (even to take apart to see how it works)?

Expand  

https://www.nismo.co.jp/heritage_parts/repair.html

Nismo offers an ATTESA actuator block rebuild service, but have you replaced the accumulator on the ATTESA block yet? That can cause a code 18.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      Blue slip

      By PranK · Posted

    • GTSBoy
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      But seriously, can we ask for the results of the "tip a bottle of metho into a nearly empty tank" experiment?
    • GTSBoy
      Blue slip

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Hang on. Let me get this straight. The desire is to have coilovers, BC in particular, to be MORE comfortable on Sydney roads than stock suspension? Well, that's obviously not right. BCs have crude damping design at the very best, and typically hard spring rates. BC stands for Billy Cart. And then, the desire is to put in some shitty old worn out stockers, to get it blue slipped and then put the BCs back in? And then.....what? Not worry about getting pulled up by the Plod? Because you seem to have raised a worry about paying for engineering (which actually does solve all your legality problems) and still getting pulled up.... but the only problem there is that if/when that happens you have to show your paperwork at the inspection station. Whereas, if you just swap in borrowed shitty old stockers to get it slipped now, and then you get defected in the future, you have to go find more shitty old stockers then too. You course of action looks like this set of options: Buy brand new stock type dampers, and springs. probably cost a bit more than $1k all up, but will last for the remaining life of the car. Put them in, pass inspection, drive on them forever more. Hell, they could even be really nice Bilsteins and Kings or other lower&stiffer springs if you wanted. Get the car engineered as is. ~$1k. Buy new Shockworks coilvers (or MCA) and also pay for engineering. You're spending a lot more here. But these will be the best things that you could drive around on.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Blue slip

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Might be worthwhile hitting up Facebook's groups, I know most of them contain terrible people and scammers - however you might be able to find someone that's in Sydney with factory suspension you could purchase and/or hire. Just do not send any form of money anywhere, in person cash only.
    • Stringycheese
      Blue slip

      By Stringycheese · Posted

      Thanks @Duncan Ride height is fine. I think it's almost stock tbh. Happy to share a pic. I don't actually have a regular mechanic as haven't lived in Sydney too long. Could you or anyone recommend any shops in Sydney?
×
×
  • Create New...